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View Full Version : Better electrode material? - Gold, silver, titanium, etc...



ElectricSquid
08-28-2008, 12:30 AM
I'm looking toward better electrode materials. Gold is the firat one that comes to mind. Used in most high grade computer connections for it's superior conductivity.

Yeas, i know solid gold electrodes would cost an arm and a leg, but DUH, we're using electrolosis, the same thing you use to gold plate jewelry. It would be easy for us to gold plate our electrodes.

So how well do you think it would hold up to say... white vinegar and 12amps?

Since we're on the topic, what about the same with silver?
The plating material could be obtained from pure silver CPU heat paste ($16 a tube).

...and what about other materials like titanium (though I'm not sure on how to plate that substance)

espian8
09-26-2008, 06:09 PM
not an expert at this stuff yet, but have contemplated your exact proposal before. Of course Solid Gold or even silver would be "mildly" expensive...so out of the question. Not sure about gold, but silver...

Silver would most likely work in pure distilled water with no caustic colution, otherwise it would most likely cause corrosion. Im pretty sure the two main elements that cause silver to discolor and corrode are Oxygen and Sulfur. Not being a problem if just sitting in water, but when the H and O's start being produced, I would suspect it might cause some problems. Not sure though, hope Im wrong.:)

Titanium would in theory work...actually Im planning just such an experiment in the near future. Its not too expensive and is virtually impermeable to corrosion. Im getting excited now.:D:D

Palladium and Platinum: These two rare (and expensive metals) also have very high resistance to corrosion, and would most likely work GREAT. Especially if plated to bring the cost down to a realistic level.

hoboincidaho
09-27-2008, 04:29 PM
I've looked into this before. With the platinum, I've hit a brick wall. Too expensive. Platinum plating is referred to as RHODIUM plating. It should indeed work, but rhodium plating won't last forever.

To get in-depth, look to This site: http://www.essortment.com/lifestyle/rhodiumplating_skvm.htm


With gold or silver, I did find research that stated they tarnish pretty quick as well.

Look into rhodium plating as it will last longer than gold or silver without having to pony up bucks for pure platinum plates.

hope this helps
-idaho

bigapple
09-27-2008, 10:56 PM
ive seen people use graphite plates. although the metal is somewhat soft, it seems pretty impervious to corrosion as well. u can buy big sheets off ebay for decent prices too. check it out

anyone tried uncoated carbon fiber? just an idea

resago
09-28-2008, 12:10 AM
graphite plates would definitely remove the hexavalent chromium problem.

resago
09-28-2008, 12:12 AM
for those of you with wire systems, replace it with the graphite cores of old spark plug wires and see what happens. should be interesting.

hydrotinkerer
09-28-2008, 01:56 PM
I've looked into this before. With the platinum, I've hit a brick wall. Too expensive. Platinum plating is referred to as RHODIUM plating. It should indeed work, but rhodium plating won't last forever.

To get in-depth, look to This site: http://www.essortment.com/lifestyle/rhodiumplating_skvm.htm


With gold or silver, I did find research that stated they tarnish pretty quick as well.

Look into rhodium plating as it will last longer than gold or silver without having to pony up bucks for pure platinum plates.

hope this helps
-idaho

I don't think silver would be a good electrode because of the way colloidal silver is made. The silver electrodes are consumed in the electrolysis reaction. The silver is then suspended in the electrolite thus making colloidal silver. I would think gold would do the same. I think those so called soft metals would erode in the reaction.

mytoyotasucks
09-28-2008, 02:08 PM
well i got 1/2" 12" carbon rods, and will test when i get more time, not sure on how much they will produce, but take less amps than SS in the same electrolyte.

test will continue

hoboincidaho
09-28-2008, 09:16 PM
I agree with hydrotinkerer. Stay away from the soft metals. If you wanted to try plating, Plate stainless steel with rhodium and see how long it lasts...
I like that titanium idea espian 8 threw out. I wonder if it would work...

Kobudoman
09-29-2008, 11:02 PM
I noticed the mention of rhodium. I build swimming pools and the plates in the chlorine generators we use are coated with it. It does wear and it is expensive. I'm trying to get my hands on some used chlorine cells to see if it would be worth stripping the plates out of them. Here's another tidbit the plates we use tend to get a build up of calcium from the pool water so the makers have taken to reversing the polarity every four hours. This causes the calcium cake to drop off and desolve. I wonder if doing the same with our cells would keep them clean and or make them last longer?

hoboincidaho
09-30-2008, 10:02 PM
I have never experimented with this. If the polarity somehow makes the calcium drop off, then you're thinking the reverse polarity with electrolyte in our cells will have the same effect on the yellowish crap that builds up, correct? hmmm... I will post back when I find something.

H2OPWR
10-01-2008, 12:54 AM
I checked out the costs of Platinum plating copper electrodes. 1 micron of Platinum would cost about $150.00 on both sides of a 6" X 6" plate. It would be much more effecient. I am building a 100 plate generator with 316L stainless plates. By the time I bought the copper and had it plated the plates for my cell would be close to $20,000.00. Although I am in this for the challenge more than the fuel savings I am not willing to get a second mortgage to build it. I am looking at trying graphite plates.

hhonewbie
10-01-2008, 02:39 AM
anyone considered utilizing titanium mufflers for cell containment & cell?
They come in all sizes & cheap to. Check out ebay...

oopsj
10-01-2008, 01:30 PM
1)platinum would be the best to use ,but the cost would be to great.
2) nickel would be the next best.
3) stainless steel would be the next, and the most common, easiest to get and pay for.
4) carbon would work great, but cutting may be a problem.

h2o.loclal.com (http://h2o.localal.com)

Kobudoman
10-16-2008, 05:53 PM
I just got a set of plates from one of the chlorine genorators that I spoke of earlier. The plates are 2x7.75 inches and there are 7 of them. Right now they're already connected in a +-+-+-+ configuration in what looks like it would be a greate mounting. I'm going to see if I can make a propper container then do some testing to let you all know how our coated pool plates work out.

H2OPWR
10-16-2008, 06:40 PM
I just got a set of plates from one of the chlorine genorators that I spoke of earlier. The plates are 2x7.75 inches and there are 7 of them. Right now they're already connected in a +-+-+-+ configuration in what looks like it would be a greate mounting. I'm going to see if I can make a propper container then do some testing to let you all know how our coated pool plates work out.

Do you know what these pool plates made of.

Steamo
02-09-2009, 02:10 PM
I noticed the mention of rhodium. I build swimming pools and the plates in the chlorine generators we use are coated with it. It does wear and it is expensive. I'm trying to get my hands on some used chlorine cells to see if it would be worth stripping the plates out of them. Here's another tidbit the plates we use tend to get a build up of calcium from the pool water so the makers have taken to reversing the polarity every four hours. This causes the calcium cake to drop off and desolve. I wonder if doing the same with our cells would keep them clean and or make them last longer?

This actually sounds like a really good idea!

SmartScarecrow
02-10-2009, 01:20 AM
we have tried nickel, inconel, copper cored titanium, tungsten, silver plated copper, gold plated copper and a number of others ... we are still using 316L stainless steel ...

however, what we are doing is not new ... there were fellows over 100 years ago just like us doing exactly what we are doing with some gear that if you believe what some of them say, was superior to what we are getting now ... and they used brass plates, hard plastic spacers made of a now obsolete electrical insulator called Bakelite and a mild acidic electrolyte, normally sulfuric acid at about 5-10% ...

they knew about series cell construction, had massive devices that were measured in cubic feet per minute of output volume and were doing some pretty slick stuff ... the Westinghouse Water Welder was constructed in a manner very similar to what we are calling a dry cell today and it was popular on job sites as early as the 1920's ...

so if you are looking for something new to try, take a look backward ... those good old boys back then have much to teach us ...

I have tried the brass, hard plastic and mild acid ... I am still using 316L, KOH and buna-n gaskets ... but the brass worked quite well and allowed a lower voltage per plate gap to get a reaction than stainless ... could use a lot more experimentation ...

ElectricSquid
02-15-2009, 10:48 PM
I'll have to check out the brass electrodes.
How badly does brass corrode in KOH?
I have a few gauges that I'd like to hook up that have brass fittings.

Gary Diamond
02-15-2009, 11:01 PM
http://books.google.com/books?id=IjNDAAAAIAAJ&pg=RA1-PA42&lpg=RA1-PA42&dq=%22Westinghouse+Water+Welder%22&source=web&ots=P8oF6ziMFR&sig=1VrgaoRGWsFrGgwxEkByKzWfUeo&hl=en&ei=S-SYSdmGLtKgtwekmailCw&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=10&ct=result#PPA5,M1

ElectricSquid
02-15-2009, 11:05 PM
http://books.google.com/books?id=IjNDAAAAIAAJ&pg=RA1-PA42&lpg=RA1-PA42&dq=%22Westinghouse+Water+Welder%22&source=web&ots=P8oF6ziMFR&sig=1VrgaoRGWsFrGgwxEkByKzWfUeo&hl=en&ei=S-SYSdmGLtKgtwekmailCw&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=10&ct=result#PPA5,M1

Give a man a fish, he eats for a day.
Teach a man to fish, he eats for a life time.

Thanks Gary!

Gary Diamond
02-15-2009, 11:22 PM
Give a man a fish, he eats for a day.
Teach a man to fish, he eats for a life time.

Thanks Gary!

Glad to help out

SmartScarecrow
02-16-2009, 12:02 AM
I'll have to check out the brass electrodes.
How badly does brass corrode in KOH?
I have a few gauges that I'd like to hook up that have brass fittings.

brass will get a pretty heavy coating of patina on it from exposure to KOH but seems to hold up reasonably well ... not as well as stainless though ...

keep in mind that in the old days, they kind of liked sulfuric acid ... my understanding is that this was not particularly easy on the brass either ...

Gary Diamond
02-16-2009, 01:06 AM
brass will get a pretty heavy coating of patina on it from exposure to KOH but seems to hold up reasonably well ... not as well as stainless though ...

keep in mind that in the old days, they kind of liked sulfuric acid ... my understanding is that this was not particularly easy on the brass either ...

Perhaps its time to try other metals, copper is way cheaper to try

Dr. Jerryrigger
02-16-2009, 07:37 PM
From what I've read Platinum is the way to go, but I highly doubt anyone reading this has the budget for that. I've used graphite with some susses, but there are many draw backs for construction with such briddle stuff. I have found it to be very non-reactive, but think stainless is a step up for practical use with multi stage cells. Copper gets crusty very fast, I've never use copper as an electrode, but had copper wire connections on a graphite probe, and they turned into crusty green shorts in under a min.
I've hear of good susses with nickle plated screen. I don't know much about nickle plating... ...sounds like i have some research to do.

Gary Diamond
02-16-2009, 07:47 PM
Just wondering if you tin the copper with solder, would that help cut down the problem

H2OPWR
02-16-2009, 08:07 PM
Just wondering if you tin the copper with solder, would that help cut down the problem

Copper will just not work. If the solder is lead based the electrolite will eat the lead for lunch quickly and if it is silver solder it will corrode fast. I also looked into electroplating a copper plate with platinum. To have .5 micron's platinum electroplating on a 6X6 copper plate both sides was $265.00. Plus you had to provide the copper and pay for freight. In researching electroplating any metal I was told that using any type of electroplated metal in the cell would not work. I am not sure if it is true but was told by the electroplating company that the plating would stay on one side and come off the other side quickly. I ran some tests with solid lead plates but in just a few minutes they get eaten up and shorted out. Brass is supposed to work fairly well but when I checked on the price it was more than 316L stainless. I wish someone would find a better more conductive alternative to stainless but I am just not sure one is available.

Larry

Larry

Gary Diamond
02-16-2009, 10:36 PM
Copper will just not work. If the solder is lead based the electrolite will eat the lead for lunch quickly and if it is silver solder it will corrode fast. I also looked into electroplating a copper plate with platinum. To have .5 micron's platinum electroplating on a 6X6 copper plate both sides was $265.00. Plus you had to provide the copper and pay for freight. In researching electroplating any metal I was told that using any type of electroplated metal in the cell would not work. I am not sure if it is true but was told by the electroplating company that the plating would stay on one side and come off the other side quickly. I ran some tests with solid lead plates but in just a few minutes they get eaten up and shorted out. Brass is supposed to work fairly well but when I checked on the price it was more than 316L stainless. I wish someone would find a better more conductive alternative to stainless but I am just not sure one is available.

Larry

Larry

I would like to built a dry cell using 316 stainless steel foil, and glue it to a plastic sheet, I can glue it to both sides and not use neutral plates but real ones

What would this buy me:

A easy to built dry cell generator

No hard drilling holes

No neutral plates

Light weight

Low cost

Gary Diamond

Dr. Jerryrigger
02-17-2009, 06:34 PM
I've thought about use of stainless foil. I think it would defitly be worth expementing with if you can find a supplier. I've never heard of a 316 foil before, and don't know if it could be made the same way soft meatles are used to make foil.
One complication that may come up, with a foil cell, is flatness. It would be hard to keep the foil completely flat, but 316 is quite stiff compared to any metal foils I've ever worked with, so this may not be much of a problem.
Nickel foil is another option, which may or may not be cheaper than SS in foil form.

SmartScarecrow
02-17-2009, 07:02 PM
well i got 1/2" 12" carbon rods, and will test when i get more time, not sure on how much they will produce, but take less amps than SS in the same electrolyte.

test will continue


try a titanium tube with a carbon rod going down the center ... make your gap so its about 1/4 inch ... use plain old distilled water with NO electrolyte ... stir gently with about 20k-30k vDC with the carbon as the negative pole ... wear flack jacket and full face shield just in case ...

the interesting thing is that you should ge NO reaction at all ... water is an insulator not a conductor ... the other interesting thing is that the gas you will get is not HHO ... its a long chain hydrocarbon more closely related to natural gas ... and it will not go boom unless it has outside air to act as the oxidizer ... so it can be captured, compressed and stored ...

imagine that ... hmmmm ...

the carbon rod is consumed in this reaction and needs to be replaced regularly ... the titanium tube will corode and get a layer of TiO on it that will need to be brushed off with a wire brush during periodic maintenance ... but this is one of many ways you can make a gas for yourself that is safe to store for use later ... could put maybe 20psi in a propane can ... burns like natural gas so if you can fire up your grill, hot water heater or whatever on natural gas, it should be able to burn this stuff without modification ...

Gary Diamond
02-17-2009, 07:04 PM
I've thought about use of stainless foil. I think it would defitly be worth expementing with if you can find a supplier. I've never heard of a 316 foil before, and don't know if it could be made the same way soft meatles are used to make foil.
One complication that may come up, with a foil cell, is flatness. It would be hard to keep the foil completely flat, but 316 is quite stiff compared to any metal foils I've ever worked with, so this may not be much of a problem.
Nickel foil is another option, which may or may not be cheaper than SS in foil form.

They use it as a wall paper covering over your dish washer, stove, ref i'm sure its takes a nak to learn how, but laying on to a 6x6 piece of 1/8 inch plastic should not be to hard

I will find a source and we can all give it a shot cutting and drilling 1/8 stainless is a ***** to say the least, it kind of takes all the fun out, and is that not 50% why we do this
Gary

Gary Diamond
02-17-2009, 09:28 PM
Hope this is real SS

http://www.ezfauxdecor.com/StainlessSteelSoftMetalFilm.html



This looks like real stainless steel foil with glue

http://www.novafilmsusa.com/metalFoil.php

Dr. Jerryrigger
02-18-2009, 05:28 AM
Hope this is real SS

http://www.ezfauxdecor.com/StainlessSteelSoftMetalFilm.html



This looks like real stainless steel foil with glue

http://www.novafilmsusa.com/metalFoil.php

nice find Garry!
Foil would be a great neutral plate. Think about the resistance of a .100 sheet compared to a .005 sheet. For outer plates, I theorizes, you would be better off with a thicker plate or better yet a copper plate w/SS foil covering it. This may be possible with out glue, just good compression in standard dry cell construction. But if the water gets to the copper you will have to get a new copper plate, unless you have a surface grinder at your dispose.

Gary Diamond
02-18-2009, 09:19 PM
I just ordered some 304 stainless steel 2 mil foil will let you know how it works out glued to 1/8 plastic

Gary Diamond
02-18-2009, 10:54 PM
Here is some 12mil thick stainless i would think it would be easy to cut and glue to plastic

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stainless-steel-sheet-6-x12-012-430-grade-K-S_W0QQitemZ110340974286QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Raw_M aterials?hash=item110340974286&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318

Bassman
02-20-2009, 10:14 PM
Several years ago, I installed new buss bars in a plating shop. They were doing hard chrome plating and their solution was called, I believe, chromic acid. I know that it would burn you to get it on you. After we bent and cut the copper bars to fit, they would plate them with silver before we installed them. This was to protect the copper as the chromic acid would dissolve the copper but wouldn't effect the silver.
I don't know if this will help you as silver is expensive but you might talk to some platters and they might give you some ideas on what you could use.

Mahjin
02-28-2009, 03:41 PM
Copper will just not work. If the solder is lead based the electrolite will eat the lead for lunch quickly and if it is silver solder it will corrode fast. I also looked into electroplating a copper plate with platinum. To have .5 micron's platinum electroplating on a 6X6 copper plate both sides was $265.00. Plus you had to provide the copper and pay for freight. In researching electroplating any metal I was told that using any type of electroplated metal in the cell would not work. I am not sure if it is true but was told by the electroplating company that the plating would stay on one side and come off the other side quickly. I ran some tests with solid lead plates but in just a few minutes they get eaten up and shorted out. Brass is supposed to work fairly well but when I checked on the price it was more than 316L stainless. I wish someone would find a better more conductive alternative to stainless but I am just not sure one is available.

Larry

Larry


If you could figure out a diy method of electroplating wouldn't it be possible to use the platinum out of discarded spark plugs?

H2OPWR
02-28-2009, 07:12 PM
If you could figure out a diy method of electroplating wouldn't it be possible to use the platinum out of discarded spark plugs?

I have done some more research on electroplating since that post. It simply will not work on an HHO device. It will stay on one side of the plate and come off the other.

Larry

ElectricSquid
03-18-2009, 08:58 PM
Has anyone ever given hard drive plates a try as an electrode?
They fit into a piece of PVC like they where meant to go there. I think building a plate array out of a bunch of them would be fairly easy to do.

I'm just worried that the material they are make of might degrade in a KOH solution.

This is what Wikipedia has to say about what hard drive plates are made of...

A typical HDD design consists of a spindle which holds one or more flat circular disks called platters, onto which the data are recorded. The platters are made from a non-magnetic material, usually aluminum alloy or glass, and are coated with a thin layer of magnetic material. Older disks used iron(III) oxide as the magnetic material, but current disks use a cobalt-based alloy.

The plates I have here are non-magnetic and electrically conductive. They come from hard drives 20G and 40G drives built around 2001-2006 from various manufacturers.

iiapoxii
03-19-2009, 01:18 PM
there was a video i saw on metacafe.com where a guy used exactly this method. although he was using them in a wet cell configuration, but it worked great. what he did, is he took i think 6 plates, and had them spaced with a plastic spacer, and cut a notch in each plate for the connection. one set of plates were all attached as + and the other set of plates were all -. when he dipped it into his solition, it seemed to work very well. ill find the link.

iiapoxii
03-19-2009, 01:21 PM
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt--nGq6MyXKns/hho_generator_prototype/

iiapoxii
03-19-2009, 03:10 PM
what about combining the metals? i am no expert, but it would make sense if we like the stainless steel conductivity properties, and the titanium anti-corrosive properties, how about melting them down on a 1:1 ratio and making a plate out of that... or out of other metals as well?

ElectricSquid
03-23-2009, 05:38 PM
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt--nGq6MyXKns/hho_generator_prototype/

Thanks for going through the trouble of finding that link for me ;)

There are a few issues I can see with using hard drive disks, or "plates".

First off, it would take at least...... 8 to 16 hard drives to make it even worth building, otherwise the production just wouldn't be worth the trouble of the build. Eight to sixteen dead hard drives is not easy to come by unless you're like me (total parts geek) and have been saving the dead ones for years knowing those disks would be useful someday for something :D
Next off is the material they are made of. Yes, they are coated with some good stuff that might prove to be long lasting in the KOH environment, but under that micro thin layer lies a core of aluminum :eek:, at least in the old hard drives before they switched over to ceramic and glass.
Aluminum is one of the key materials used in the chemical process of splitting water. I think KOH or NaOH is the other ingredient, and of coarse, water. So if the micro thin layer ever gets scratched or eaten away, the generator might have a runaway chemical reaction with no way to stop it. Even if the fuse blows, it wouldn't matter since the HHO is now being made chemically without the need for electricity.

So here's the big question of the day...

How is it that I could monitor the generator in a way where a runaway chemical reaction could be detected, and then, after detection, how can I stop it?

stephane
03-31-2009, 02:44 AM
http://www.rsc.org/publishing/journals/JM/article.asp?doi=b500274p
http://whttp://www.physorg.com/news5180.html
ww.ecvv.com/product/vp1095332/Nano-Graphite-Powder.html

iiapoxii
03-31-2009, 08:45 PM
ahh, i see. i didnt know what the plates were made of. and i am like you, i still have floppy drive ribbon cables as a 'just in case' insurance... lol. are all the plates from all the manufacturers made of the same medal? in my expierence, old hard drives are VERY easy to come by, even free....

junglefuel
04-02-2009, 10:38 PM
Hi Guys, My first time in a forum so bear with me.
I have been building hho cells for 4 years now and have spent thousands of dollars in R&D. I now use Titanium elctrodes and can tell you that it works great if properly done. No red mud water stays clear and amps are at 15 cold and 20 hot, 120 degrees. Now I have over 150 units in service and not had one fail. Loged 400 hours on one cell tore it apart and it looks like new. Easy to build less than 1 hour start to finish. Can not say how long the life expectancy is do to the fact that I have not had one fail. Since I am a newbie here I do not if it is ok to share or sell electrodes. I do have a web site with a poor video showing one of my cells in action, if it is ok to post the address please let me know. I am willing to share my findings with you folks as long as I am not stepping on anyones toes.

H2OPWR
04-02-2009, 11:43 PM
Hi Guys, My first time in a forum so bear with me.
I have been building hho cells for 4 years now and have spent thousands of dollars in R&D. I now use Titanium elctrodes and can tell you that it works great if properly done. No red mud water stays clear and amps are at 15 cold and 20 hot, 120 degrees. Now I have over 150 units in service and not had one fail. Loged 400 hours on one cell tore it apart and it looks like new. Easy to build less than 1 hour start to finish. Can not say how long the life expectancy is do to the fact that I have not had one fail. Since I am a newbie here I do not if it is ok to share or sell electrodes. I do have a web site with a poor video showing one of my cells in action, if it is ok to post the address please let me know. I am willing to share my findings with you folks as long as I am not stepping on anyones toes.

PLEASE post anything you have!!!!! From time to time we all step on each others toes but we are all big boys and can deal with it.

Larry

stephane
04-03-2009, 02:08 AM
Hi,
Can somebody from US ask for sample of nanographic material to them?
I'm sure it should be the best for electrode.

http://www.appliednanotech.net/ANI/nanoparticles/nanoparticles_home.asp

stephane
04-03-2009, 02:12 AM
http://www.nanocarbonsales.com/order.htm

H2OPWR
04-03-2009, 02:14 AM
Hi,
Can somebody from US ask for sample of nanographic material to them?
I'm sure it should be the best for electrode.

http://www.appliednanotech.net/ANI/nanoparticles/nanoparticles_home.asp

Stephanie, I now have in my possesion 18 plates coated with nano particles of this same composite from the origional inventor. In the near future I will build a cell with these plates and we all can see the results. This process is very very expensive and until we can see some results I would not advise anyone else spending their money. One is enough. I am now eating just day old bread to make up for the money these things cost. In a month or so I should be able to add meat back into the diet. Stay tuned I will happily share the results.

Larry

junglefuel
04-03-2009, 11:51 AM
Ok then go to breathablefuel.com
Also the cost of one set of three electrodes is $200.00 neg pos neg and are 3" x 8" and are fitted into a 4" abs pipe.
Tony

Shadfurman
05-29-2009, 03:35 PM
I'm looking for platinum/rhodium electroplated carbon fiber for my hydrogen evaporator cell electrodes, high surface area, corrosion resistant, and the platinum is a catalyst.

r2d2michael
09-10-2009, 03:57 PM
i build these cells at work and installe them. the plates are titiaum with the coating only on one half of the plate. so the other half is bare titiaum. this we call bi-polar. iv tried useing these cell plates just to make hho. they dont produce as much i wanted but still work and the coating lates about 3-5 years if running 24hrs a day.

Mike waterstar
09-25-2009, 09:13 AM
The best anodes to use are Iridium Oxide coated Titanium. Best catalyst for long life. You don't generate any toxic chrome sludte and you get low voltage. Don't use swimming pool chlorinator anodes. They have ruthinium oxide catalyst which won't last as long. You need Titanium anodes? I make them.

PlasmaDL
11-22-2009, 09:31 AM
Hi Mike, you say you make the Iridium Oxide Coated Ti anodes, how much are they per plate and what size are they, and what would you use for the cathode? thanks

dtots89
11-28-2009, 11:14 PM
In the science lab at my college it wasn't feasible to have a tank of hydrogen, so they have a machine that produces it as needed through electrolysis.

This machine uses platinum plates and is quite expensive. But I feel that in a science lab they know which materials produce the best hydrogen.

shawmp1498
12-26-2009, 09:23 PM
one of my buddies tried using titanium tig wire to build a wet cell.running straight off of the battery. it produced very little gas, so we switched to stainless. it worked much better.

sweet7549
12-27-2009, 09:14 AM
Mike,
How do we get hold of you?
For the anodes
Thanks
361-216-4060

rboos
01-23-2010, 08:12 AM
http://books.google.com/books?id=IjNDAAAAIAAJ&pg=RA1-PA42&lpg=RA1-PA42&dq=%22Westinghouse+Water+Welder%22&source=web&ots=P8oF6ziMFR&sig=1VrgaoRGWsFrGgwxEkByKzWfUeo&hl=en&ei=S-SYSdmGLtKgtwekmailCw&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=10&ct=result#PPA5,M1

The book is readable online at http://www.archive.org/stream/appliedelectroc00cravgoog#page/n7/mode/1up

BTW,
It is sad (and weird) that research didn't evolve much since then (1917)! in the electrolysis and HHO field ... well energy in general. Some examples (as I recall):
- Diesel (1858-1913) was the inventor of the Diesel engine, originally designed it to run on peanut oil (bio-fuel, vegetal oil) in 1897 !
- Ford designed the Model T Ford, to run on (ethanol) alcohol – "the fuel of the future", he said - but oil companies commercially induced the change to gasoline?
- The concept of HHO for fuel dates back to around 1781 (Cavendish)?
- 90% of the cars produced in Brazil in the last decade can run on pure Hydrous ethanol (90% ethanol and 10% water) resulting in a 10HP increase in power?
Petroil companies really kept us dumber (and poorer) for a century. Welcome to the free-HHO era...