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View Full Version : does the thickness of the SS TUBE affect the performance?



pistolpete
09-04-2008, 01:56 AM
HI Guys!

i need your opinion on this. i just recently bought a stainless tube with these specs

12" 1.25 ID, 1.2 mm thickness
12" 1.50 ID, 1.2mm thickness
12" 1.75 ID , 1.2mm thickness

my question is, would the thickness affect the amp,lpm in anyway?would it increase or decrease

ive read in some threads that tubes used are .065 mm only.

thanks

HomeGrown
09-04-2008, 09:09 PM
LOL! the thread MAY have said .065mm, but I can guarantee you it was .065". If it was .065mm it would be thinner than a piece of paper. Your 1.2mm thickness is about .048" thick, which is a good thickness. Also, are you sure your dimensions are the I.D.?? I'm relatively certain that you are giving O.D. dimensions there. The only difference thickness makes is the gap distance between the tubes. You should end up with about a .077" gap between tubes, which is pretty much exactly what you want.
BTW: a good quality tubing cutter will cut stainless tubing with no problem, although it will leave a hellacious burr rolled over on the I.D. that can only be removed with a lathe, or possibly a dremel.

pistolpete
09-11-2008, 01:30 AM
thanks for the clarification,

one more thing i have finished assembling my generator. i have used a water filter housing and three 9' pipes with a config of + n -

i tested the unit already but i think i have a low output. i just see bubbles like when you shake a can of "SPRITE" its just plain fine bubbles. not those like in youtube where you can see big bubbles popping. but the lye solution was only 1/4 of a teaspoon with 1liter water. and the only thing you can see coming out from the generator is white smoke.is that ok?

need more inputs regarding my generator

thanks in advance:D

HomeGrown
09-12-2008, 07:21 AM
LOL! Your cell uses three 9 foot pipes?!? :eek:
I'm sure that's supposed to be 9". ;)

The white smoke is probably the HHO gas, as I've seen the same thing on mine when the bubbles pop.
I originally started out with just 2 tubes per cell, but at the suggestion of another member, I decided to try a N tube in the center. My output appeared to go way down from what it was, so I ended up powering the center tubes. WOW, it really kicked up the output. I can run it either +-+ or -+-, with approx. the same output (visually). I just don't think that tubular built cells really benefit from N tubes in the same way that plate cells benefit from N plates.

pistolpete
09-12-2008, 08:12 AM
i meant 9" hehe...typo errorĂ¼ by the way, can you estimate how the amps on a +-+ or -+- base on my setup?and whats the lye ratio do you think is best for a 1liter water?

HomeGrown
09-13-2008, 12:25 PM
I'm afraid I can't help you with that... you'll just have to hook up the cell with an amp meter and see what the current draw & output look like at various electrolyte mixtures.

hygear
09-20-2008, 04:33 AM
i meant 9" hehe...typo errorĂ¼ by the way, can you estimate how the amps on a +-+ or -+- base on my setup?and whats the lye ratio do you think is best for a 1liter water?

To get your cell dialed in first you'll need an amp gauge to monitor your amps while ajusting your electrolyte concentration,along with the bottle in a bucket method to measure your LPM output,also monitor your heat after running for at least 1-2 hours,to ensure you won't have any runaway heat problems.
Hope this helps you out.

H2OPWR
09-20-2008, 02:52 PM
Production is all about surface area. Thicker the material the better because just like running alot of current through copper wires small guage wire heats up more than large guage. As for n plates the more the better up to 5 when running on an automotive 13.7 volt system. Just increase the electrolite until you are getting the current draw that you are looking for.