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javierf
09-05-2008, 06:10 PM
I have been working on an electrolyzer for quite a while and have come with a final design which you can see in the following pictures. The one shown contains 5 cells while the final one contains 7 cells. I'm in the process of testing for heat, gas generation, amperage, etc. Once I test that I'll be testing with a mechanic on a carburated car for performance, piston overheating (if any), etc. Still have to build the bubbler and arrestor, but those are simple to make. Any comments or questions are welcome.

http://crenlinea.com/ph2o.jpg

hydrotinkerer
09-05-2008, 07:21 PM
That looks like a Tero cell. What did you use for gasket material, also what is the thickness? It really looks good. Have you measured the output? It really looks cool!:cool: The seven cell should produce great. Are the cells +nnnnn- or +-+-+-+-?

javierf
09-08-2008, 01:54 PM
Hi hydrotinkerer. The gasket material is soft pvc, 1/8". Haven't had time to measure output, etc. Each cell is +nn-, and all 7 are connected in series.

hydrotinkerer
09-08-2008, 09:11 PM
Are you going to run it completely flooded? Where did you get the pvc?

javierf
09-09-2008, 02:11 AM
What do you mean by "completely flooded"? I got the pvc at a local hardware store.

hydrotinkerer
09-09-2008, 11:42 AM
What do you mean by "completely flooded"? I got the pvc at a local hardware store.

It means the water container sits higher than the cell. HHo gas and water are expelled out the top, while the bottom hose supplies water in. It almost pumps it's own water. Constantly circulating water keeping cell cooler. Then the gas is vented out the top of the water container and fed to your ice.

javierf
09-10-2008, 02:33 PM
I have performed several tests in that respect trying to create a water circulation system like you explain, and for me, it doesn't work, for several reasons:

First, the angle of the hoses between the electrolyzer and the container in order for that to "kinda work" is critical.

Second, the pressure created in the electrolyzer prevents a "good" flow of the water because it creates pressure on the water intake. Pressure in the whole system tends to stabilize, therefore, preventing the water flow.

Third, by doing that, the water flow through the gas output hose sometimes uses the whole capacity of the hose therefore interrupting, though temporarily, the gas flow causing intermittent production of gas to the engine.

In MY opinion, from all the tests I've performed, the only way to do it is to either have a large enough electrolyzer to contain a large amount of electrolyte to prevent overheating at the gas generation rate desired (requiring a lot of room in the engine compartment), or to use a pump to circulate the electrolyte. I'm probably going with the latter.

Watching videos on youtube and reading some posts makes me wonder why nobody hardly ever mentions overheating. That is a critical aspect of any electrolyzer. I know of several people who have had containers explode, brake, or crack, because of overheating (mainly water4gas systems). I've seen videos of electrolyzers generating up to 2LMP, which I'm sure wouldn't last 30 minutes without melting...., plus, besides generating HHO, are generating water vapor.

At this point, I'm not even sure either that what most people suggest, that the electrolyzer should produce > 1LPM is true. I'll know for sure once I start testing on a vehicle.

overtaker
09-10-2008, 07:05 PM
+nn- times seven cells in series? Isn't that 21 voltage gap drops? How many volts are you running? Great looking cell. :)

hydrotinkerer
09-10-2008, 09:50 PM
I have performed several tests in that respect trying to create a water circulation system like you explain, and for me, it doesn't work, for several reasons:

First, the angle of the hoses between the electrolyzer and the container in order for that to "kinda work" is critical.

Second, the pressure created in the electrolyzer prevents a "good" flow of the water because it creates pressure on the water intake. Pressure in the whole system tends to stabilize, therefore, preventing the water flow.

Third, by doing that, the water flow through the gas output hose sometimes uses the whole capacity of the hose therefore interrupting, though temporarily, the gas flow causing intermittent production of gas to the engine.

In MY opinion, from all the tests I've performed, the only way to do it is to either have a large enough electrolyzer to contain a large amount of electrolyte to prevent overheating at the gas generation rate desired (requiring a lot of room in the engine compartment), or to use a pump to circulate the electrolyte. I'm probably going with the latter.

Watching videos on youtube and reading some posts makes me wonder why nobody hardly ever mentions overheating. That is a critical aspect of any electrolyzer. I know of several people who have had containers explode, brake, or crack, because of overheating (mainly water4gas systems). I've seen videos of electrolyzers generating up to 2LMP, which I'm sure wouldn't last 30 minutes without melting...., plus, besides generating HHO, are generating water vapor.

At this point, I'm not even sure either that what most people suggest, that the electrolyzer should produce > 1LPM is true. I'll know for sure once I start testing on a vehicle.


Sorry I did not notice the gas outlet and water inlet are at the top. A flooded cell has to have the water inlet at the bottom, That way it creates a circulating affect.

javierf
09-11-2008, 12:20 AM
overtaker: not really. With 7 cells the voltage drops to about 1.8v/cell. It´s a car 12V battery which really outputs about 13V. The voltage per cell is equal to the total input voltage by the number of cells. It's a very linear relation. The amperage does vary a lot depending on electrolyte concentration and type, number of plates, separation between plates, amount of electrolyte, plate surface, etc. However, I think I'm going back to 5-cell configuration, even though it uses more voltage than I really want per cell, because the 7-cell requires a very high electrolyte concentration to generate the necessary amperage, and I hate using such a caustic chemical in such high concentrations. I'd like to use less than 30% by weight as it has been suggested by many.

hydrotinkerer: the intake at the bottom doesn't work because the pressure in the electrolyzer makes the water go back to the container through the intake hose too, eliminating the circulation effect. Just by putting the output hose of the electrolyzer through a bubbler causes enough pressure in the electrolyzer to push the water in the intake back to the container, even with the intake at the bottom. Have tried that....

Any other suggestions, or corrections if I have done something wrong, are VERY welcome. For now, I'm setting up to use a pump.

Thanks for all the comments.

hydrotinkerer
09-11-2008, 09:03 PM
overtaker: not really. With 7 cells the voltage drops to about 1.8v/cell. It´s a car 12V battery which really outputs about 13V. The voltage per cell is equal to the total input voltage by the number of cells. It's a very linear relation. The amperage does vary a lot depending on electrolyte concentration and type, number of plates, separation between plates, amount of electrolyte, plate surface, etc. However, I think I'm going back to 5-cell configuration, even though it uses more voltage than I really want per cell, because the 7-cell requires a very high electrolyte concentration to generate the necessary amperage, and I hate using such a caustic chemical in such high concentrations. I'd like to use less than 30% by weight as it has been suggested by many.

hydrotinkerer: the intake at the bottom doesn't work because the pressure in the electrolyzer makes the water go back to the container through the intake hose too, eliminating the circulation effect. Just by putting the output hose of the electrolyzer through a bubbler causes enough pressure in the electrolyzer to push the water in the intake back to the container, even with the intake at the bottom. Have tried that....

Any other suggestions, or corrections if I have done something wrong, are VERY welcome. For now, I'm setting up to use a pump.

Thanks for all the comments.


Once you see this design you will understand what I was trying to say, sorry if I wasn't clear enough. I did not notice before that you used clear plexiglas for end caps. What are the cell measurements?

http://www.umpquaenergy.com/hydrogengenerator/tero_cell.pdf

javierf
09-12-2008, 02:03 PM
The cell is 4" wide and 8" tall. The depth I haven't measured, but it's probably around 6".

Looking at the link you included of the "tero cell", I see mine is similar except for the fact that it's like several of those tero cells in series and the number of neutral plates is different. I'm currently testing and believe my final design will have 3 neutral plates/cell.

I see the tero cell shows the output and intake barbs at the same hight, on the top, like mine.

hydrotinkerer
09-12-2008, 02:26 PM
The cell is 4" wide and 8" tall. The depth I haven't measured, but it's probably around 6".

Looking at the link you included of the "tero cell", I see mine is similar except for the fact that it's like several of those tero cells in series and the number of neutral plates is different. I'm currently testing and believe my final design will have 3 neutral plates/cell.

I see the tero cell shows the output and intake barbs at the same hight, on the top, like mine.


Right, I changed the plates themselves to have water holes at the bottom and gas holes at the top. I put gas hole at top of end plate and put water inlet at bottom of the other end plate.

DaneDHorstead
09-15-2008, 03:11 PM
The cell is 4" wide and 8" tall. The depth I haven't measured, but it's probably around 6".

Looking at the link you included of the "tero cell", I see mine is similar except for the fact that it's like several of those tero cells in series and the number of neutral plates is different. I'm currently testing and believe my final design will have 3 neutral plates/cell.

I see the tero cell shows the output and intake barbs at the same hight, on the top, like mine.
javierf;

Reading the threads, I see that you were with 7, then 5, now going to 3.

Obviously, there is a reason(?)

I have gone from 3, to 5, and am considering more. Too much heat, is the reason I add more neutrals, but each time, I have to step up KOH, by a bucketload, or two.

Note my design is in an open bath, with a cap, to vent vapors.

Yours is a dry cell.

I next plan to experiment with a dry cell, but can't help wonder why you are taking the reverse route (number of neutral plates), as myself?

Roland Jacques
09-15-2008, 09:35 PM
A water inlet at the bottom of the electrolyzer does in fact work good. UNLESS you are restricting (having back pressure) on the HHO gas outlet (backpressure from the extra tall bubble hoses to small for output...). You just have to have your water reservoir high enough to create more pressure on the inlet side than the pressure on the outlet side. That your bubbler water depth is creating.

My reservoir and bubbler are one in the same. The HHO inlet half way up the reservoir and at least a few inches higher than the outlet on the electrolyzer (so the HHO gas is always flowing up). That way the pressure on the water in is always higher than the HHO outlet is.

Your electrolyzer looks great. I sure would like to know the output, or better yet the MMW.

javierf
09-16-2008, 02:10 PM
DaneDHorstead: actually, my testing with the neutrals has been in order to control the amperage through the amount of cells and the electrolyte concentration. The more neutrals used the higher the KOH concentration is needed to maintain the amperage. Like you said "bucketloads". Up to the 30% by weight which many people use. I would really like to use less.

My electrolyzer is rather small, measuring 4"x8". The reason for trying to keep it small is in order to be able to fit it in most small cars. I will be working on a 4"x12" for bigger vehicles once I get this one working right.

I did testing with one similar to yours on an electrolyte bath, but the container is too large to fit inside most engine compartments. If you decide on putting it in the trunk, then that'd work fine.

After building several different configurations, I think I'll go with 5 cells and 4 neutrals/cell.

Heat is definitely a problem when you try to push the generation of gas to its max. That's why I think an electrolyte flow control is absolutely necessary to keep heat down for long periods of time.

Roland: I have built a circulating system like you mention. However, haven't been able to have the electrolyte circulate fast enough. Pressures tend to level off and prevent a good circulation. However, I'll give it another try and see what happens.

Thanks guys for your comments and suggestions.

DaneDHorstead
09-16-2008, 07:52 PM
DaneDHorstead: actually, my testing with the neutrals has been in order to control the amperage through the amount of cells and the electrolyte concentration. The more neutrals used the higher the KOH concentration is needed to maintain the amperage. Like you said "bucketloads". Up to the 30% by weight which many people use. I would really like to use less.

My electrolyzer is rather small, measuring 4"x8". The reason for trying to keep it small is in order to be able to fit it in most small cars. I will be working on a 4"x12" for bigger vehicles once I get this one working right.

I did testing with one similar to yours on an electrolyte bath, but the container is too large to fit inside most engine compartments. If you decide on putting it in the trunk, then that'd work fine.

After building several different configurations, I think I'll go with 5 cells and 4 neutrals/cell.

Heat is definitely a problem when you try to push the generation of gas to its max. That's why I think an electrolyte flow control is absolutely necessary to keep heat down for long periods of time.

Roland: I have built a circulating system like you mention. However, haven't been able to have the electrolyte circulate fast enough. Pressures tend to level off and prevent a good circulation. However, I'll give it another try and see what happens.

Thanks guys for your comments and suggestions.
Javierf

Consider a bilge pump, or an aquarium pump set inside a small tank, and run the vinyl hose through a small ice/water filled cooler.

For years beer miesters have been built that way, and there is no reason it wouldn't work for HHO (note the beet meister uses a hand pump, or a pressurized system).

Haywire Haywood
09-16-2008, 08:35 PM
I've wondered how those aquarium pumps will take the caustic electrolyte. They aren't designed for that kind of solution.

Ian

javierf
09-17-2008, 01:28 AM
Thanks for the suggestion DaneDHorstead, but I don't think the ice/water filled cooler would fit in the engine compartment, and the ice wouldn't last long :D It takes a while for the electrolyte to heat up, so I can do testing fine, but it wouldn't work for long trips in a car.

With respect to the aquarium pump, I tend to agree with Ian, but I did think of that and looked for one. Couldn't find one that worked with 12V anyway. Now, the bilge pump sounds like an interesting idea, will look into it. Thanks!

Haywire Haywood
09-17-2008, 05:15 AM
Seems like the bilge pump would have the same problem as the aquarium pump, designed for fresh or salt water and longevity pumping KOH would be questionable. We're also talking about a total of maybe 2 gallons of fluid max, the bilge pump might be too high volume for our needs. A small pump that does 2 or 3 gallons a minute with 1/4 or 3/8 fittings would be ideal. Hard to find though.

Ian

Painless
09-17-2008, 05:51 AM
With respect to the aquarium pump, I tend to agree with Ian, but I did think of that and looked for one. Couldn't find one that worked with 12V anyway. Now, the bilge pump sounds like an interesting idea, will look into it. Thanks!

On the subject of a pump that will withstand electrolyte and work on 12v, some people are getting good results with this one:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_357081_357081

RadGenH2O on youtube uses one.

DaneDHorstead
09-17-2008, 08:45 AM
Seems like the bilge pump would have the same problem as the aquarium pump, designed for fresh or salt water and longevity pumping KOH would be questionable. We're also talking about a total of maybe 2 gallons of fluid max, the bilge pump might be too high volume for our needs. A small pump that does 2 or 3 gallons a minute with 1/4 or 3/8 fittings would be ideal. Hard to find though.

Ian
Ian / JavierF;

I don't wish to be argumentitive, but in reality at least some electrolytes are similar to salt.

(In fact many people use salt water, for Hydrogen generators)

Sodium Hydroxide for instance. Sodium is salt, and the pumps are designed for use in salt water.

And as to locating the devices, I long ago, decided to locate everything except the MAP enhancer, and on off switch, in the cargo area, of my SUVs.

I run a #2 copper wire (capable of 100 Amps), under the car frame, with the HHO tube, which carries the vapors to the engine. Some people put them in the trunk, or in the bed of a pickup.

I planned it to be able to run 4 generators if necessary (all under 25 amps peak), but found I was geting 3.6 LPM from the combined 3 gens.

Now, I have removed them to experiment (on the bench) with different plate configurations, in an attempt to further reduce Amp draw, while trying to maintain, or increase output.

So far, I have not had the need for a cooler, but I may go there, as I also may add another gen.

DaneDHorstead
09-17-2008, 08:56 AM
Ian / JavierF

I agree with Painless as to the link for the pump he provided. It is a little pricy, as comparred to a cheap aquarium/bilge pump, but it also is much more durrable.

I should also have noted previously, that aquarium pumps are built to be used in salt water tanks, as well as freshwater tanks (same for bilge pumps).

Understand that there will be many opinions, and deviations on ideas provided in the forum, as that is exactly what a forum is.

I, at least, don't expect everyone to agree, I just toss ideas out there for rebuttal.

To kind of kick the cyber tires.

Roland Jacques
09-17-2008, 09:16 AM
DaneDHorstead:
Roland: I have built a circulating system like you mention. However, haven't been able to have the electrolyte circulate fast enough. Pressures tend to level off and prevent a good circulation. However, I'll give it another try and see what happens.

Thanks guys for your comments and suggestions.

I’m sorry I may have misunderstood. I am not sure why you want the solution to circulate fast. I do it so it keeps the cell toped off, so really no need for fast circulation.
You are right, the way I described it, it will not circulate fast. It probably only moves 1-2 gallons an hour. (Just keep the HHO discharge hose always angled going up)

DaneDHorstead
09-17-2008, 11:21 AM
Faster circulation (especially into, and through a larger cooler/tank), will do two things........

It will cool faster, and it will aid in causing the bubbles to come off of the plates.

It's not that heat isn't generated, but it is better dissipated, through a larger resivoir, especially if it is aided, with ice, and cool water.

The resivoir allows an expanded volume of liquid area, for the heat to exchange to, rather than containing the hot liquid to a small unit, and heat is exchanged through the vinyl tube, which separates the electrolyte solution, from regular tap water, and ice.

If tightly wound, how much vinyl hose could you coil into a gallon sized container, without kinking the tube? You don't even have to use a gallon container, as you could easilly wrap the tube into a spool, like it was rope, and place it in a container like a large PVC pipe, with perforated walls, for water/heat transfer.

Because heat rises, the majority of heat, will escape upwards (which could be vented), and cooler water surrounds the coils, from the sides.

Propperly set up, you can drain the melted ice away through a valve, and release it to the ground, below. Because the liquid volumes are separate, you are only dumping regular tap water, onto the ground.

Yes! All of this takes space, that is not available under the hood, but there are ways to accomodate it.

It is easy to replenish the tap water, and resupply ice if needed.

We all have empty plastic bottles laying around, that can be frozzen, to maintain a cheap supply of ice, and with ample Ice supply, temps could be held under control for very long trips, at little to almost no cost.

A one gallon milk/water bottle, could hold a very long coil of vinyl hose, with added water in it, to aid the cooling process. Surround that bottle, with more bottles of solid ice, and a water bath (all inside a cooler, with a lid).

javierf
09-17-2008, 02:09 PM
Painless: thanks for the link. Looks like a possible option.

DaneDHorstead: the problem with KOH solution (or NaOH if you decide to use that) is that it's too corrosive, much more than salt water in an aquarium. Not sure if an aquarium pump would last, but I guess there's only one one to find out...

With respect to the pumps, using a low KOH concentration electrolyte would help prevent any damage to the pump, and that's what I'm aiming at right now, trying to keep a low concentration KOH and maintaining current flow adequate. This makes it a lot less dangerous to handle and less caustic to the entire system's components.

I think using ice to cool the system is not practical at all. A think just by circulating the electrolyte through a larger container would dissipate the heat enough, since raise in temp in my tests has been rather slow, but I need to be able to control it and keep it as low as possible. I'm not sure circulating only 1 gallon/hr will do the trick though.

A high volume pump should be no problem since we can just control the current and make it work at a lower rate. For example, if it's a 12v pump and you make it work at 6V, it'll still work fine, with 2 added advantages:

1- the volume pumped is lower and not too strong for the system
2- the pump's life is incremented since it's working a lot more "relaxed".

DaneDHorstead
09-17-2008, 03:17 PM
JavierF

Please don't missunderstand me, I have not built such a device, but am only considering the practicalities of it.

As I see it, you are aiming for a lower 3 gap cell?

The three gap, will work with far less electrolyte. Mine produces 1.19 LPM with 1 tsp/1 gal (distilled), NaOH, and works equally as well with 1 tsp/1 gal (distilled) of KOH.

But, it draws greater heat, than I wanted (10 amps per cell, at 129F).

The 129F is not too awfully bad to live with, but I attempt to do better, by adjusting the cell design (adding neutrals), and adjusting KOH.

I would prefer to see if I can get the heat to a lower operating temp, without using two truckloads of KOH.

KOH (or NaOH) are not "consumed" by the devices, so the only thing added later, is more distilled water.

Other electrolyte types are consumed by the generators!

javierf
09-17-2008, 05:09 PM
DaneDHorstead,

I'm using 1/8" gap between plates. I think your concentration of 1tsp/1 gallon of destilled water generating 1.19LPM is very good. Do you have any pictures of your electrolyser?

DaneDHorstead
09-17-2008, 05:52 PM
javierF;

Like yourself, I post my electrode design at the top of every writting.

Obviously, it a wet cell, as yours is dry.

But for larger view, see......
http://shuttermotor.tripod.com/id11.html

I am changing the cell design, to use four nylon bolts, where only two are shown, to maintain better control of gaps, and eliminate any bending of plates.

Gap, is 0.0435" (1.1 mm), and is comparable to Stan Myers recomended 0.045", as also Dave Lawton recomends.

On recomendation of others, I am also experimenting with other plate configurations, and gaps, but I was very pleased with the 1.19 LPM I got at 13.8 volts / 11 Amps, and 128F.

With three identical gens. I was outputting almost 3.6 LPM in 1 tsp KOH per gal distilled water. Each container, holds just under 1/2 gal.

javierf
09-17-2008, 06:13 PM
DaneDHorstead,

Is the 128F operating temperature stabilized? After how long? Does it stay at that temp after a couple of hours?

DaneDHorstead
09-18-2008, 11:25 AM
JavierF

You'r really asking the wrong guy, for that info, as I don't travel that much, comparred to most people.

I am a dissabled american vet, from Viet Nam, and I just don't get around that much, or that well. Don't get me wrong! I'm not totally crippled, just old, and very slow!

Many people may not agree, but I don't pull any punches, and I tell it, like it is.

I have not run it for a coupe of hours straight, as that would only waste a lot of gas for the point of proving what?

If heat didn't get out of hand in 40 minutes, it shouldn't do much more than that, in two hours.

I live for the most part, at the very bottom of Florida's west coast, and have virtually everything I need within three or four miles. So I really don't do that much driving.

There is nothing east of me, for 80 miles (except everglades), nothing south of me, except the gay boys in Key West (I have no desire to go there). Gulf of Mexico, west of me, and I can be in Ft Myers, in 25 minutes (to the north).

I never go east, as there isn't anything there but suggar cane, rattle snakes, and aligators, until you get to the other side, and there, they don't anylonger speak our language, or even fly our flag!

But truthfully, I seldom, even venture more than five or six miles, from home. So really, you are asking the wrong guy!


Most of my business comes to me, rather than I go to them, so again, there is not much travel involved. I repair tubular shutter/awning motors, and most of that, is done with credit cards, and through UPS/DHL shippers.

At the very most, I run maybe 40 minutes, at a time, and hold fairly true to the 128 to maybe 135 F mark, with the three generators.

DaneDHorstead
09-18-2008, 12:16 PM
Just my 2 cents,...

but in actuality, what I believe you have, is seven paralell sets of "series" wired cells +NN- with every other positive and negative, being sharred between cells.

Your voltage drop is between four plates only, but is repeated seven times over as an approximate 4.666 volts lost between each plate - 14 volts to 9.333 v to 4.666 v to Zero (at ground connection). Note that any voltage drop over an approximate 1.5 volts (between plates), goes to wasted heat, and produces no extra HHO.

Because positives, and negatives each, are connected to common poles, those are paralell connections. Likewise, any additional cells wired in conjunction to. or with them, would also be a four plate series cells, wired in paralell (although, they should each have their own fuse/breaker).

However, if it were only the first, and last plates that had pole connections (no matter how many), then ther are a series connection.

javierf
09-18-2008, 01:47 PM
DaneDHorstead,

I was actually asking if you had run the electrolyzer for a couple of hours on a bench. Believe or not, even after 40 minutes the temperature may keep rising. Looks like in your particular case that's not an issue due to the time you say you drive at a time.

My electrolyzer is actually 7 cells in series since only the first and last plates are connected to the current source. As I mentioned before, I'm still testing trying to find the best configuration for my particular design (different # of cells, # of neutrals, KOH concentration, etc). Once I'm happy with it I'll proceed to test it on a vehicle, which, unlike you, I still haven't done.

hygear
09-20-2008, 08:19 AM
DaneDHorstead,

I was actually asking if you had run the electrolyzer for a couple of hours on a bench. Believe or not, even after 40 minutes the temperature may keep rising. Looks like in your particular case that's not an issue due to the time you say you drive at a time.

My electrolyzer is actually 7 cells in series since only the first and last plates are connected to the current source. As I mentioned before, I'm still testing trying to find the best configuration for my particular design (different # of cells, # of neutrals, KOH concentration, etc). Once I'm happy with it I'll proceed to test it on a vehicle, which, unlike you, I still haven't done.

I run the same cell and it's a good,cool running design.You might find that running 6 cells is going to give the best production(at least mine does)rather than 7 cells.My cell goes from around 1.3 LPM running on 7 cells and drawing about13-14 amps to 3.8 Lpm on 6 cells and drawing 33-35 amps.Anything less than 6 cells creates heat and draws way too many amps.The configuration I use is -nnnnn+ anything more or less from this doesn't give good production or crates too much heat.
Btw the way very nice build,that's the best looking tero design I've seen yet!!!!!!!!!!
Please post your progress,I'm interested on how your results turn out.

javierf
09-21-2008, 01:56 AM
hygear:

Thanks for your comments and info on your experience. Very useful. 3.8 LPM is an awesome output. Drawing 33-35 amps at 12V doesn't create heat up problems after a while? Since I have only worked on a design based on a Tero cell, and not any wet cell, now I'm wondering if I should have gone with a wet cell instead.

Heat on a dry cell like mine is really critical to control. To the point where I think I'll have no choice but to use a pump to circulate the electrolyte. I'm still testing different cell configurations and electrolyte concentrations to see what's the best I can get on a compact design, since this is one of my biggest priorities. I'll definitely be posting my final decision once I get to it.

My experiments took a significant turn after reading one of the threads in this forum with respect to KOH getting through the bubblers, all the way to the engine, and damaging the aluminum parts in it:

http://hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=1426&highlight=warning

Now, I'm even more concerned about trying to use as little KOH in my electrolyte as possible, and that meant modifying my series design in an attempt to reduce the KOH concentration as much as possible. In a way, I'm back to square one (except for "some" more experience than I had when I first got interested in this).