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dlynds
10-08-2008, 06:57 PM
I am mystified. I have a 4 cell config. drawing a total of 15 amps. Vehicle is a 2007 malibu V6. Idling cold, the units draw 15 amps, but after about 3-5 minutes, the amps spike and blow a 30 amp fuse or trip my 30 amp circuit breaker.
There are no shorts, and I have measured the draw at the circuit breaker (both sides), the relay, and at the electrolyzers.
I just upgraded my battery to a 775 amp hr from a 575.
I somehow think that I am getting a spike when the alternator kicks in, but I am not an electrician.
My wiring is 10 gauge awg.
Without a fuse or circuit breaker, I can run the unit for an hour without a problem and the amp draw creeps up to about 25 amps.
Any input on this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Painless
10-08-2008, 07:04 PM
Have you attached an ammeter to determine if the amps are actually spiking that high when this happens? If so, what do you see? A sudden spike or a slow rise to that ampage?

JonDoh
10-09-2008, 06:28 AM
a plate may be making contact with one another because of the gap distance. That's what was my experience.

dlynds
10-09-2008, 06:52 AM
The ammeter spikes hard right, then the fuse blows. I tried each cell individually, and no problem. I also hooked up to my wifes car, and no problem.

ridelong
10-09-2008, 10:36 AM
dlynds,

You might have a voltage regulator going bad.

Use a voltmeter to measure the voltage across the generator. If it goes much above 14.2 volts, the voltage regulator is probably going bad.

JonDoh
10-09-2008, 12:23 PM
awww... you have a 4 cell.... what's your config??

Are there any neutral plates?

DaneDHorstead
10-09-2008, 02:27 PM
Is it mummy wrapped?

Many people tend to use vinyl streatch wrap, or electrical tape to mummy wrap.

Vinyl shrinks dramaticly, when heat is applied, which can pull plate edges together, shorting cells.

solo33
10-10-2008, 07:20 AM
Hi dlynds,
I still have my HHO setup on the bench. MY unit will do the same thing, Blow 30 amp fuses while the generator is only pulling 15 amps. This is while connected a 35 amp voltage/current regulated power supply. It has never happened while I was watching it. Now, I built a "Zero PWM w/foldback current regulation to stop the thermal run-a-way problems all (that I know of) HHO generators have (as they get hotter, they draw more current, which makes them get hotter). So, I'm still in the dark about the fuse blowing. I was hoping the problem would go away when installed it into my car, but I guess not! I'll be curious what you find out. Please keep us posted. Thanks.............

atfab
10-10-2008, 08:00 AM
dlynds,
You may have posted your own solution, It sounds like the problem is in your fuse or circuit breaker hookup. There may be a poor connection or defective breaker.

Try putting them back in, but only one at a time , not both at the same time.

dlynds
10-19-2008, 04:25 PM
Tried them individually, and still blows them.

resago
10-19-2008, 06:26 PM
try replacing the fuseblock with an automotive breaker.

water4gasinstaller
01-08-2009, 12:45 PM
Our own personal experience as our design of our Hydrogen units as well from 5 amps will go to 12amps in hot operational unit.

The best is to have a clamp amp meter to measure when you are half journey when its hot to see how high it is. it is best to start a low amp first.

as the unit drawing too much amps will hurt both your alternator and battery and wires in the long run

jcbarton
01-15-2009, 03:42 PM
is electrical tape a good thing to use to mummy wrap? If not what is best to use? What are the adavantages of the mummy wrap? Thanks

Q-Hack!
01-15-2009, 03:57 PM
is electrical tape a good thing to use to mummy wrap? If not what is best to use? What are the adavantages of the mummy wrap? Thanks

Electrical tape will slide away from itself as it heats up... makes a gooey mess.

Cut up an old bicycle innertube and hold it in place with zip ties.

The idea is to reduce current leaking from the edges of the plates. However, since you have to leave the top and bottom of the plate edges exposed, it will still perform less efficient than a dry cell design.

velorossa22
02-09-2009, 11:09 AM
Mine was pulling between 18-22 amps with a 30A fuse. It blew after about 20 minutes ( I was using 12GA wire). The wire itself was warm and near the fuse holder was really hot. The hotter wire gets the more resistance it causes in the circuit. Therefore drawing more current the hotter it gets. I adjusted the electrolyte to draw closer to 14-15A and has been working fine. If you want to use you might see where your wire is getting hot and maybe upsize the wire.

wcorless
02-14-2009, 04:04 PM
I had a similar situation. My cell was sometimes contacting the ground of the chassis while driving and shorting out the positive. This could also be the cause of the fuse blowing.
It also could be that your clamp on meter isn't reading the actual amps, the fuse blows when it reaches it's threshold.
Try putting an amp meter with a shunt directly on the wiring and see if there is a difference in the reading between this and your clamp on meter.
I have found that there usually is a difference.