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Thunderball
11-01-2011, 09:42 PM
Anyone out there have any experience with the electronics on this engine? I have a 2001 Chevy Astro, 4.3L V-6 Vortec, and pretty much the same engine/ECU combination in alot of Chevy's. I have installed a HHOKitsDirect 772 Dual Block HHO kit. I'm pulling 30Amps with no problem and producing lots of HHO gas....tested it myself! Everything is installed to spec.

Where the problems is....my ECU. I can't get it to budge! Here is what I have tried so far:
- Mileage Chip from HHOKits (came with kit, no response, sent it back for EFIE)
- Dual Wideband EFIE (got the wrong one, my engine has narrowband O2's)
- Dual Narrowband EFIE (wired up, could not get O2 sensors to respond and lean out mix)
- Changed all three O2 sensors using Denso's (old ones looked like they were burning good)
- Changed spark plugs (installed PulseStar Irridiums. Awesome plugs!)
- Still no response out of the Narrowband EFIE (sent back for another chip)
- Just got another Mileage Chip, but this one looks identical to a Volo Chip
- Installed, reset, and is working okay
- Installed an Ultra Gauge to monitor emissions system
- Engine is completely tuned and runs good (top of engine rebuilt, new gaskets, new injectors, new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, vacuum hoses, PCV, clean EGR, etc.)
- HHO injection is into the Intake, behind the MAF sensor, about 6" before the throttle body.
- Did a 'hot reset', when everything was at temperature and running hot.

- I did notice that my exhaust pipes (duals) are a bit sooty. Exhaust smells normal, sometimes strong. I don't get that 'ozone smelling' exhaust that everyone talks about.

Ran 500 miles on two fill-ups with this new, current Mileage Chip. Mileage is the same, actually a tad lower. (17.8mpg) HHO is running at 30Amps. My base average mpg is 18.8mpg. I get about 19.5 Hwy and 17 City.

Anyone got any ideas on the OBDII workings of this engine? This can't be this hard to make something happen. I'm producing the HHO, the ECU is overriding everything I do.

Thanks.....

myoldyourgold
11-02-2011, 10:42 AM
My thought is that it might not be an OBD II problem but a reactor problem. What I have read about the 772 reactor would make me believe that it is not the most efficient. I suspect that the gas produced is moisture laden and that there is very little HHO and what is there might not be very powerful. I think if you were in a very dry climate you might see some results because of the moisture. I have not tested one of these but based on what I know that works this product is not at the top of the list. Has good advertising though but.......Someone with the right equipment needs to test this beast. I could be wrong but I do not think so. Which narrow band EFIE did you try? That could have been the problem too. You need a good quad digital narrow band to treat all three of the sensors on that engine. I think that one has three. I know the 2000 does.

Thunderball
11-02-2011, 09:56 PM
My thought is that it might not be an OBD II problem but a reactor problem. What I have read about the 772 reactor would make me believe that it is not the most efficient. I suspect that the gas produced is moisture laden and that there is very little HHO and what is there might not be very powerful. I think if you were in a very dry climate you might see some results because of the moisture. I have not tested one of these but based on what I know that works this product is not at the top of the list. Has good advertising though but.......Someone with the right equipment needs to test this beast. I could be wrong but I do not think so. Which narrow band EFIE did you try? That could have been the problem too. You need a good quad digital narrow band to treat all three of the sensors on that engine. I think that one has three. I know the 2000 does.

I have three sensors, narrowband, 2 upstream and 1 downstream. I'm not exactly sure of the HHO output on my 772, but at 30Amps, its cranking pretty good. I set my injection hose in a bucket of water and lit the bubbles with a lighter. It definitely produced a light show....like little bombs going off! (Man that stuff is powerful!!) But, I'm having real good luck with my 772 operating nicely and the van holding the 25-30A current. My secondary bubbler goes really good too. The reactor is not overheating, everything is running good.

I tried another reset of the chip today, with the engine idling and everything good and hot. We'll see how tomorrow's tank goes. My current Mileage Chip looks identical to the Volo HHO chip. I have no directions, other than installation. I found some resetting tips, but they're all different.

Oh, the Narrowband EFIE I used was the one from HHOKitsDirect. Looks exactly like the one on Fuelsavers site. I used the Digital Quad Narrowband. It adjusted and worked, but I could not get no response to the OBDII or mixture. Still a rich mix. And, I'm definitely getting into closed loop mode.

A thing I noticed today, on my Ultra Guage, I'm noticing that my engine temp is running at 184-188 degrees when operating. I just put a new 195 thermostat in too. I'm getting NO SES lights, just have a bit rich smelling exhaust and sooty pipes. All else runs normal.

I'm wondering if there is one OBDII sensor that is overriding everything.

myoldyourgold
11-03-2011, 03:47 AM
I'm not exactly sure of the HHO output on my 772, but at 30Amps, its cranking pretty good.

If you look at the manufactures own video you will see what he is calling 3 to 4 lpm is about 1 lpm maybe slightly more, of moisture laden HHO at 35 amps. Yes, it will make some noise when lit but still not enough to give you gains. The seller is using a meter that is not made to measure moisture laden HHO. It can be off as much as 4 X. If you look closely you can see the moisture vapor coming out of the cup. 3 lpm would blow that little cup of the table. The reactor is running in a flooded state and because of that will never be very efficient but they have to do that to keep it cool. Without having one in front of me it is hard to tell for sure but this looks like a 3 plate 2 cell reactor running at 13.8v 17.5 amps per cell with wide gaps and electrolyte concentration controlling thermal runaway.

This is there claim to fame and the only part of the reactor that is interesting and shows some creativity.


The internal structure is Better than a dry cell - it is not a wet cell either (though it shares some features of both) and is another part of our patent. It combines the strengths of both, while eliminating the weaknesses of each design. This is why I call it a HYBRID CELL

I have no idea what feature of a wet cell has any benefit.

Their claim of making 1 lpm at 120 to 160 watts using brute force is suspect. I think it is closer to 1 lpm at about 300 watts which is not very efficient.

This is why I think you are not getting any gains. Not the OBD II problems. I would feel a lot better if I am wrong because a lot of people have bought this reactor. This reactor will work to some extent in very dry climates. The added moisture and a little HHO giving some gains. You need really good bubblers with this one!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ0VpS3H_sU&feature=player_embedded

Thunderball
11-04-2011, 12:19 AM
I did a couple of things tonight and we'll see how it goes tomorrow. I checked my output over a bowl of ice. There was some steam coming out, not a lot, but I did see a little. The inside of my intake looks real dry. There's one little tiny drip spot under the inlet, but it wasn't much for the amount of miles I just ran.

I also re modified my intake tube. My inlet is just behind the MAF sensor, on the rubber flex hose. What I never knew was just below my inlet is a 3/8" manifold vacuum connection. I would bet that a good portion of HHO was going into the manifold. So, I fabbed a 90 degree fitting with an 8 inch tube going back to the throttle body. Now the gas comes out just above the throttle plate.

Reset my Mileage Chip and took it for a ride. Not much difference, but only went a few miles.

Going to do some research on the steam issue. Wonder if McMaster Carr sells and inline dryer, or some kind of gadget that filters the air and removes moisture.

myoldyourgold
11-04-2011, 12:39 AM
What you call steam might not be steam but just moisture. HHO is loaded with moisture unless you filter it out. The object of the game is to run the most efficient reactor as possible and that comes with less moisture. Moisture is not necessarily bad, especially in very dry climates. Just make sure your bubbler is doing a good job to clean out the electrolyte that comes with the moisture. Even the most efficient reactor will have some moisture but less. It is part of the process. How we deal with it is what counts.

Darrell
11-04-2011, 12:51 AM
Yep! Got to get the moisture out of the gas to avoid it from recombining. What is the temp of the reactor and gas coming off it when running? One thing to think about, there are allot of people now showing great results running several reactors at under 5 amps each. The reactors may not be at there most efficient down low but the gas quality is very good because it stays cool, getting more hho the the vehicle.

Just something to think about. "D"

Havens78
11-04-2011, 09:19 AM
I'll be doing regular maintenance on my 771 this weekend and i'll try to take some shots of the reactor. I won't be taking it apart to see the structure as I was requested not to dismantle our only working system right before we start traveling for family gatherings this winter. But you'll be able to see the plates pretty well through the inlet and outlet holes. BTW, the remote reservoir I installed a few weeks ago dropped the temp of my eletrolyte by around 10 degrees, something to think about Thunder if you have the room.

Regular maintenance for me is simply draining and refilling the system and trying out some things to keep the bubblers from freezing up as its starting to drop below freezing here at night.

myoldyourgold
11-04-2011, 11:21 AM
Havens78, How many plates dose it have? Just 3? If that is the case what are you paying for. If you count the plastic and if the plastic is injection molded plus 3 plates nuts and bolts you are talking about very little money. In a normal small reactor that produce a good 1 to 1.5 lpm measured with out moisture or about 3 lpm with very little moisture will have 8 316L plates which ups the cost quite a bit. The 771 must have more plates but I have only heard them talking about 3. Just ask the seller how many plates is in it if you can not take it apart. This information will help determine what the reactor is really capable of and how to help anyone who is having trouble. Ask the seller to clarify how it takes the best of an open bath and a sealed flow throw series reactor. I hate to be negative about anybodies reactor but with the information and the feed back by many others who have emailed me that are having trouble tends to make me think something is not right. It might not be the reactor though. Help us out here with some details. I would suggest that you run the reactor between 25 and max 28 amps. This will cut down the moisture quite be but will reduce the production, heat and make a more efficient reactor. I doubt you will be able to tell the difference in fact you might get better gains if you are getting any at all to begin with.

Havens78
11-04-2011, 12:21 PM
If i recall you can see 5 plates, but that's still only 3 neutrals and i've tried to get information out of the seller and he simply won't release anything for fear of someone reproducing his product. He does state that he can't prepare the plates (passivate) because of the volume of sales that he pushes out, but the plates are sanded and cleaned before the units are installed. I think i asked too many questions about if the plates were blasted or passivated as I have stopped getting emails from the seller, but that doesn't bother me. If i hadn't started questioning the efficiency of the reactor I wouldn't have found this forum and learned that I build something a lot better.

I should be able to get to this tomorrow afternoon/evening after I pick up my marvels mystery oil. I'll post some pics as soon as I can.

Havens78
11-05-2011, 05:22 PM
As promised, i was cleaning/draining and found some pretty nasty looking fluid on the inside of the elbows at the reactor so I took it apart to see if everything was alright.


7x7x2.125" reactor
+nnnnn- configuration

neutrals are 5"x5.25", held in place by 1/4" gasket strips on the edges, see photos. active area is 4.75"x5", but the plates are flooded at all times.

bolts on the back were not tight at all, more than finger tight but I only needed to have the socket in my hand to take everything apart. Plates look to be very lightly sanded in a circular motion, no consistent sanding was seen on any of the plates.

http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n568/havens78/

pass is hho771


I'll be hitting them hard with 40 grit sandpaper in both diagonal/horizontal/vertical directions before putting it all through a cleaning and reconstruction.

myoldyourgold
11-05-2011, 06:03 PM
Great post. This makes me feel a lot better. This reactor is a much better than I was led to believe. I am very happy to publicly state that my doubts and understanding of this reactor were wrong.
The only thing that is not correct is the claim of 3 to 4 LPM. But it is accurate with the gauge that they are using to measure it without removing the moisture before measuring. What you end up measuring is moisture and some HHO. The actual HHO being produced is something less than measured.

That said I see there are some ways to improve on it with out changing how it is made. It will help reduce the temp and possibly increase production per amp. The 772 is just a 3 stack of the same thing.
PM me if you are interested. I do have a couple questions.

Weapon_R
11-05-2011, 07:16 PM
Havens78

I agree with myoldyourgold.This is indeed a great post.
For the longest while I have wanted to see the makeup of this cell.
The manufacturer labeled the a hybrid which caught my interest.

myoldyourgold
11-05-2011, 07:39 PM
Weapn, What he calls mixing both wet and a series sealed flow through reactor is not rally much different. The major difference is that leakage can only take place over less area because the ports have less surface area where the plate is exposed. The problem with this is the current will find the smallest spot regardless of its size and turn it into a supper highway. Plates with holes in them which are located in the correct position and with the use of Weldon eliminates any advantage he has gained. It comes back to the same thing and that is it is a basic sealed series flow through reactor with modified ports. I will say that the basic idea is not bad and much better than I first understood. Here is a good example that if the seller was a little more forth coming with information there would be no misunderstandings. It is not that bad of a reactor. Still not the best but there are a lot worse ones out there. You should be able to see some gain using this reactor but it might require some minor changes in some cases. All cars or trucks are not equal.

One further observation is that this reactor should be run at under 30 (23.75) or at the best not exceed 25 amps.

Weapon_R
11-05-2011, 11:14 PM
myoldyourgold

I see your point. I was also thinking about using weldon around the neutral plates after seeing the pictures.
Does the current leakage that everyone speaks of as bad as it has been made out to be?
I ask this because many or the so called zero leakage cells I have seen do not seem to have any better output than those using holes and no weldon.
Personally I think zero leakage is overrated. I will be doing some experimentation of my own to confirm my theories.

myoldyourgold
11-06-2011, 01:32 AM
I see your point. I was also thinking about using weldon around the neutral plates after seeing the pictures.
Does the current leakage that everyone speaks of as bad as it has been made out to be?
I ask this because many or the so called zero leakage cells I have seen do not seem to have any better output than those using holes and no weldon.
Personally I think zero leakage is overrated. I will be doing some experimentation of my own to confirm my theories.

Weapon, let me see if I can explain this so it is easy to understand. The HHO that most are measuring has a high concentration of moisture. You will be able to see how much if you can have access to a gas spectrometer. This is not steam but moisture. That means there is a lot less gas than is claimed. Now by reducing current leakage the efficiency goes up by using more of the current in splitting water which also results in moisture going down. More gas per amp. Now when they measure with the common devices they could find that production went down because there is less moisture. Moisture takes up a lot more space than hydrogen and oxygen and a few other gases. With less moisture you might think that you have less gas when actually you have more. The less moisture in the gas makes the gas more powerful so it takes less to do the same job. You win all the way around. In summary, more gas per amp, less moisture, more powerful gas. I hope that helps.

Weapon_R
11-06-2011, 01:21 AM
Weapon, let me see if I can explain this so it is easy to understand. The HHO that most are measuring has a high concentration of moisture. You will be able to see how much if you can have access to a gas spectrometer. This is not steam but moisture. That means there is a lot less gas than is claimed. Now by reducing current leakage the efficiency goes up by using more of the current in splitting water which also results in moisture going down. More gas per amp. Now when they measure with the common devices they could find that production went down because there is less moisture. Moisture takes up a lot more space than hydrogen and oxygen and a few other gases. With less moisture you might think that you have less gas when actually you have more. The less moisture in the gas makes the gas more powerful so it takes less to do the same job. You win all the way around. In summary, more gas per amp, less moisture, more powerful gas. I hope that helps.

myoldyourgold

Thank you for that explanation it made perfect sense.

Havens78
11-06-2011, 02:35 AM
I'll be blasting these plates when I blast the plates for my unipolar set up, but for now I think what I did will help a little. Just a before and after photo of the plates as I was sanding.

http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n568/havens78/?action=view&current=process_1.jpg#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2 Fs1140.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn568%2Fhavens78% 2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3Dprocess_2.jpg

http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n568/havens78/?action=view&current=process_1.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2 Fs1140.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn568%2Fhavens78% 2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3Dprocess_1.jpg

http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n568/havens78/?action=view&current=process_1.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2 Fs1140.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn568%2Fhavens78% 2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3Dprocess_1.jpg

http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n568/havens78/?action=view&current=process_1.jpg#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2 Fs1140.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn568%2Fhavens78% 2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3Dprocess_2.jpg

Thunderball
11-06-2011, 11:01 AM
Hey Havens....great pics!! I always wondered what was inside of the reactor. I have the 772, so it's just another block and electrode bigger. I was actually gonna take it apart to see what's in there.

Today, I'm going to change and backflush my system. The fluid is still active, but at 30 Amps, I maybe boiling the water and creating too much moisture. I just bought a new bottle of Robic too (NaOH crystals). Then, I'm going to doublecheck the wiring on the mileage chip. Also, going to reset the ECU and start all over. Did three different resets of the Chip without any luck.

I've run three tanks of gas this past week and got no increase at all. Still stuck at 18.4, 18.8, and 17.4mpg. Ughhhh...

That was some great explanations on the gas and amps too. I'm going to mix this next batch of electrolyte to run around 20Amps and see if anything happens. My engine is just being as stubborn as anything with this stuff.

Keep ya posted.....

myoldyourgold
11-06-2011, 11:55 AM
Heavens, why not just blast the ports at least on the power plates and use Weldon on them. I think that will make some difference and its quick and easy just 3 plates and a small area. The Weldon will only stick where it is blasted.

You can see how far the electrolyte made it under the gasket. There is no solution for this. The reaction between the charged plates and the electrolyte is attracting ions and that pulls the electrolyte under the gasket.

Looking good. Thanks again for the pictures.

Tunderball keep at it. At the worst you might have to invest in a EFIE that can also adjust the map/maf, iat, and cts. The same company makes a unit that just does the extra stuff. This should help if nothing else works.

Havens78
11-06-2011, 03:48 PM
The purchasing of blasting equipment was put on hold for now, don't worry though i'll be getting to it and making the most out of this unit.

saqmaq
11-15-2011, 12:45 AM
Weapn, Plates with holes in them which are located in the correct position and with the use of Weldon eliminates any advantage he has gained.

Myoldurgold

what is the correct position to place holes on plate? and what is a weldon? where do we put it and why? will appreciate your elaboration

Thanks

:confused:

myoldyourgold
11-15-2011, 04:21 PM
what is the correct position to place holes on plate? and what is a weldon? where do we put it and why? will appreciate your elaboration


saqmaq, Weld-on 16 has been well explained in a number of threads on this forum. It is basically a liquid acrylic that insulates the edges and an area around and opposite the port to help reduce current leakage. When the plate/ports are media blasted the stuff sticks and is not affected by electrolyte and has been tested for thousands of hours. Here is a couple links using the search feature of this forum.

http://www.hhoforums.com/search.php?searchid=312048

http://www.hhoforums.com/search.php?searchid=312050

As far as location of the ports go I can give you some rules to follow but the actual location has to do with the the shape of the plate, the location of the power source, and if it is a bipolar plate or a unipolar plate. My actual location is copyrighted and is in a patent application so am not at liberty to publish it.

Here are some general rules in regards to input ports:

1. Get as far away from the power source as possible.

2. Stay at least 1 inch from any edge. (bottom or sides)

3. Stagger the ports and insulate the opposite plate area where there is no port.

4. Port size is based on the size of the exit ports. Should be about 1/2 the size or less of the exit port. This has room for experimentation based on to many things to get into here. This is just a start point!!

5. Shape of the port has no bearing on bipolar plates (neutral plates) or plates with single power connections. Duel connected/unipolar plate rules are different and proprietary and protected by copyrights etc.

Exit port rule:

1. Exit port(s) should cover as much of the top of the plate as possible staying 1 inch away from the sides and close to the top gasket as possible. Narrow slots are better than round holes.

This is based on my experimentation and I welcome others to contribute their own findings. I am sure there will be many different opinions. Mine are based on my proprietary system and so might not apply right across the board but will in most cases.

Thunderball
11-17-2011, 09:34 PM
Well, here's an update on the Chevy engine & ECU. I ran about 8-10 tanks of gas from various pumps. Sunoco, Marathon, Shell, BP, Speedway, Sheetz. Also did various resets on the Volo chip, with the engine running, with the engine off. Gave it 150-200 mile to 'break in' between resets. I also back flushed the HHO system and refilled with new electrolyte and set it to run at about 20 Amps. Also modified the intake so that the HHO is dumped out right above the throttle body.

All of that, and about 2,000 miles of running.....still stuck at 18.3 mpg average. No higher, no lower.

I called Volo tech support and verified that I was resetting the chip right. They helped me verify that it was hooked up right etc.

There is something about this specific ECU that has me nailed to the wall....it just won't adjust.

myoldyourgold
11-17-2011, 09:59 PM
Well, here's an update on the Chevy engine & ECU. I ran about 8-10 tanks of gas from various pumps. Sunoco, Marathon, Shell, BP, Speedway, Sheetz. Also did various resets on the Volo chip, with the engine running, with the engine off. Gave it 150-200 mile to 'break in' between resets. I also back flushed the HHO system and refilled with new electrolyte and set it to run at about 20 Amps. Also modified the intake so that the HHO is dumped out right above the throttle body.

All of that, and about 2,000 miles of running.....still stuck at 18.3 mpg average. No higher, no lower.

I called Volo tech support and verified that I was resetting the chip right. They helped me verify that it was hooked up right etc.

There is something about this specific ECU that has me nailed to the wall....it just won't adjust.
11-15-2011 01:21 PM

Thunderball, you sure have given it a good go. I hate to say this but first the Volo does not have a great success rate. I would suggest a good EFIE.

There could be two problems one being that the reactor might not be putting out enough HHO and more moisture than HHO. Problem two is the Volo is not fool proof and does not work on all vehicles. Have you gotten any help from reactor vendor? They should be able to advise you based on there claims.

Thunderball
11-18-2011, 10:41 AM
Are there any EFIE's out there that have a good track record?? I tried one from HHOKits, for Narrowband sensors, and didn't do anything to the AF mix. It seemed to add or subtract voltage to the O2 to ECU signal, but I could never get it to lean out. I have all new O2 sensors in too.

My EFIE looked just like the ones on Fuelsavers website.

thanks.

myoldyourgold
11-18-2011, 12:20 PM
Yes but I have not completed my testing of it. I will post a review when I am done. So far it is rock solid and does exactly what it is designed to do.

myoldyourgold
11-20-2011, 12:13 PM
Thunderball, Can you post some numbers that the ultra gauge was showing on the two front 02's before you adjusted them? All the 4.3's I have checked so far (only 3) are running rich to begin with. Averaging over 700 while cruising at 75 to 80 MPH but still get 20 mpg with no load and 2 people and proper tire air pressure in the S10 on long constant speed trips.

Thunderball
11-20-2011, 08:45 PM
Right now, the Ultra Gauge is showing the Front O2's running from 150 - 770 mv. With the UG reading every one second, it shows the voltage on the O2 voltage wave where it's at at that time.

Other specs that I've been monitoring:
Engine temp: 188-190 degrees once fully warmed up
Long Fuel Trim: hovers around 3-4
Short Trim: anywhere from -2 to 7
Front O2 Sensors: 150 - 770mv

All of these settings are showing WITH THE CHIP in the ON position, too. If I remember right, when I had the Narrowband EFIE installed, the O2 readings ranged from 300-1100mv, but engine performance never changed.

myoldyourgold
11-20-2011, 10:55 PM
Try monitoring just the front 02's in real time. I think that was possible. I might be confusing it with my wideband guage that I have installed too. I am under the weather so you will have to wait till I am up an about to check exactly what mine is reading. I will post it when I do.

mr.niceguy
11-22-2011, 09:04 AM
thunderball, i havent read the entire post. do you have at least a 2LPM hho sys? if not, the HHo provided might not be enough to aid in lowering mpg. And i agree the a better EFIE would most likely help by at least 10%

WHen all else fails get a 4cyl. or a middle of the road engine like a 2.5L, the old T100s had 2.7L im looking into getting 1 of those.

myoldyourgold
11-22-2011, 03:37 PM
i havent read the entire post. do you have at least a 2LPM hho sys?

To size a reactor or plates for that matter you need to add 1 lpm over the .5 lpm per liter size of engine size rule of thumb. A 4.3 liter engine should have a reactor that puts out about 3.5 LPM. The reason for this is you never want to be running your reactor at max all the time and some engines, for what ever reason, work better with more but a lot with less. Now to complicate it more the HHO must be more than just quantity. If you are dumping a lot of moisture or poor quality of HHO into the mix you are not going to see the returns. Metered moisture in a dry climate is excellent but does not do a whole lot in climates that have more moisture in the air to begin with especially when you are not metering it. There are some exceptions and that is where the moisture is negatively charged. (negative ions) I could add more but will have to bite my tongue here.

mr.niceguy
11-22-2011, 11:36 PM
Hmm 3.5LPM thats a lota gas and alot of amps to supply the reactor. So basically sell your car dude lol... didnt know all variables. Someones done a little bit of research.