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View Full Version : HKS AFR Type-D in a Subaru?



Silly
11-13-2012, 06:56 AM
Hello, - Long time lurker, first time poster - I have an HKS Type-D AFR Regulator that I am thinking of trying in my 97 Subaru GT 2.5L n/a - I will be putting in a dry cell or two (not sure if i will need two yet) with a PWM each - I have been running a wet cell with 13 SS strips with great results in my 83 6.3L Diesel Suburban (more power, less throttle, a lill better MPG) but the Suburban has ZERO Computer controls, it is all mechanical. Also, I used that same wet cell in my 94 Acura Integra, with excellent result - before the ECU decided to "correct itself"

we have winter snow now, so the Subaru will be my main concern for now.

Anyone have any input?
Also, anybody running HHO on Subarus?

...This forum is great, but generally, posters do not include much, if any, information on what vehicles they are working on. Often, people will include the engine size, but little else.

Stevo
11-13-2012, 04:36 PM
I will say this: keep the output hose to engine as short as possible/reasonable. I had a system in the trunk of my 2003 WRX and finally got it to work consistently, but I think some recombination was happening on the way to the engine bay.

In short, I had to try a few different injection points before I got it to work consistently. For my car, I had to Y into the wastegate solenoid valve hose that connects to the turbo inlet. Consistent average gains were around 15%, but drivability was much improved in the city. I would not suggest running a system that is always on even at idle. You are wasting fuel this way. The latest system I am building will not run at idle and will take engine load into account.

Try the most efficient 1 liter per minute system you can find and remember that there isn't a ton of headroom with these stock Subaru alternators. Overdriving the alternator will certainly only use more fuel and kill your alternator.

Ah - and finally... The one thing that made the most difference as to whether the system worked consistently was making sure to reset the ECU after installing the system. On the WRX models, you can force a "quick learn" after resetting the ECU by allowing the engine to warm up then following a special RPM/Boost combination.

Silly
11-14-2012, 02:09 PM
very little room under the hood indeed! My Subie is n/a, so no turbo in the mix (i wish!) .. my bubbler is in between the brake master cylinder, firewall and the air box/inlet near the throttle body. I piped my HHO inlet to the port that is used for the PCV so the length of hose is under 2 feet.

I'm using a PWM that has a max of 15amps, so I shouldn't be exceeding that. The PWM is powered by a 30A relay, that is initialized by a rocker switch in the cab, that is powered only with the ignition on. By no means perfect, but at least it wont get left on after shutting the car off... I could power it off at stoplights manually - where i live is very rural, and I rarely have to sit at a light or stop sign.
I'm using a small dry cell that fits between the driverside headlight and the battery. 19 plates, lots of neutrals. After about 50 minutes driving with it operation, it was just slightly warm to the touch. Unfortunately, with the limited headroom, the height difference from the reservoir is not enough, and flow is less than what I would like to see.

Thanks for the input and help - and all the help everyone has provided me.

I have not had much worth contributed until now, but I have found this site to be great resource.