information overload!

Unlike many of you, I don't want to spend tons of time experimenting with different designs and set-ups. I just want to build, install and forget.

I am more than capable of building a system including an efie to keep my costs down.

But there is so much info out there I don't know what I should do.

My thoughts are a 9 plate dry cell +NNN-NNN+, but how big? How big and where to put the holes?

As for an efie, I see some on ebay for $29.00. Worth it to me if I can avoid building one, but I don't want one I have to constantly adjust. As I said, I want to build, install and forget. Someone have or can guide me to schematics for one I can build that is basically automatic?

Is a bubbler really necessary? If so, a diagram for a decent one somewhere?

I don't need a perfect system, just one that is good and reliable.

My car; 2003 Jetta GLI. 2.8L VR6

I appreciate your input. Thanks

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Originally Posted by M34me

Unlike many of you, I don't want to spend tons of time experimenting with different designs and set-ups. I just want to build, install and forget.

I am more than capable of building a system including an efie to keep my costs down.

But there is so much info out there I don't know what I should do.

My thoughts are a 9 plate dry cell +NNN-NNN+, but how big? How big and where to put the holes?

As for an efie, I see some on ebay for $29.00. Worth it to me if I can avoid building one, but I don't want one I have to constantly adjust. As I said, I want to build, install and forget. Someone have or can guide me to schematics for one I can build that is basically automatic?

Is a bubbler really necessary? If so, a diagram for a decent one somewhere?

I don't need a perfect system, just one that is good and reliable.

My car; 2003 Jetta GLI. 2.8L VR6

I appreciate your input. Thanks

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There are a number of kits out there on the net that show you step by step start to install. I have checked out a few of these kits my self at our shop and found a few really good designs. Granted these kits are going to run you anywhere from 60 to 100. How ever the ones we have at our site below are well worth it. Once you build your first one it gets easier every time. Good luck to you I may be able to find a good diagram for you. Let me know if you would like I would place it on the blog listed below.

No real need for a kit as I have access to a sheer, and can order the steel through my employer along with all the ability and tools I need to procure and build my own system for far less than a kit will cost.

If I can just see a good diagram of a proven plate design including size. I see them all the way from 3" sqaure (using an "o"ring which causes you to lose a lot of surface area) to 6" square. And there are different ideas on location and size of holes.

As for the efie, I build custom electrical stuff for a living, so all I really need is a good schematic of one that will work on my car. I want to set it and forget it. I've seen them for $29.00 on ebay, but it appears like they require adjusting for different situations. I would pay that price except for the fact I don't want do have fiddle with anything once it's installed and "dialed in". The other ones I have seen that are more "automatic" are far more costly.

I'll take a little time to read your blog though. And if you know where I can find good diagrams to do all this myself I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.

Look here there are two design of a dry cell, plans to be more specific and with their autocad drawings.

Dry cell plans

Here's a good design
http://smacksboosters.110mb.com/BB%2...20Document.pdf

I'd install a EGT sensor (and alarm) on any car before i install an EFIE. then id consider a Digital EFIE if that compatible with your car.

I just finished in install on my 24v last night. Check your PM's.

PS:Your car has a wideband o2 sensor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mkivvr6

I just finished in install on my 24v last night. Check your PM's.

PS:Your car has a wideband o2 sensor.

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Check you PM

A lot of people are using 316 ss “316L is an extra low carbon (ELC) grade of stainless that has only .03% carbon, making less carbon available to precipitate with the chromium. It is used extensively in marine exhausts where salt water corrosion mixed with diesel exhaust particulates and electrolysis create such a horrible environment that even other grades of stainless cower and run away!´(just so you know)
Now I have access to sheets of 6*12 or bigger of the 321 ss “321 and 347 are known as stabilized grades of stainless. These are alloyed with either titanium (321) or columbium (347), both of which have a much stronger affinity for carbon than does chromium at elevated temperatures. This eliminates carbide precipitation leaving the chromium where it belongs for corrosion protection...remember our discussion of intergranular corrosion? Both 321 and 347 are top choices for exhaust headers, especially turbocharger systems and rotary engines. Since 321 is much more available than 347, that leaves 321 as the first choice, with no sacrifice in needed qualities” (just so you now)
Will this be an issue? With the 321 being alloyed with titanium it should last longer and not corrode as fast right? Now again the ss I have access to is about a 16th on an inch think is this too much or does it really matter?
Here are some links that give a breakdown of chemical break down of both the 316 and the 321 ss, so you brains out there that know more about metal and corrosion then I do may able to tell me what would be the best to go with.
M34me and I are on the same page. I don’t want to do lots of experiments and several rebuilds. I an in the Navy and have access to a full machine shop, solder shop, metal shop, weld shop, micro electronics, and even a composite shop. I have lots of time on my hands and want to get crack’n on screwing the man out of money.

http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/321-321H.html
http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/316-316L.html

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Originally Posted by Roland Jacques

Here's a good design
http://smacksboosters.110mb.com/BB%2...20Document.pdf

I'd install a EGT sensor (and alarm) on any car before i install an EFIE. then id consider a Digital EFIE if that compatible with your car.

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I'm a little confused looking at the drawings.
There are 4 tabs for power. Is that 2 - and 2 +?

In one view the 2 tabs that are centered on the plate obviously are lined up, but the plate with the offset tabs are opposite each other in the exploded view. In the assembly view they are lined up. Then once again in the side plate dwg they are opposite each other.

My assumption is that the tabs are supposed to be lined up. But where does + and - go? Are the taller tabs + and the shorter tabs -? If that's the case then it would be easier to wire if the tabs were aligned. I don't see any reason why you wouldn't want them to be aligned.

It appears that from an electrical view this is 2 cells in one with approx. 2.3 volts per plate.

Then when I click on his link there are slightly different designs. In the top pic. you see it hooked up to a bubbler, it has 4 tabs. The next 2 pics show one wired for 12vdc the other for 24 vdc. The first is 24? the second is 12? And the + goes middle with the - on the 2 outside tabs? Do I have this right?

So in the GenIV it's 7 plates (just shy of 2 vdc per plate) with middle plate + and outside plates -. He doesn't show the bubbler above the cell, so how does the electrolyte get into the cell?

And what is the third hole that has nothing hooked up to it all about? Why doesn't electrolyte leak out there?

Also, what is an EGT sensor?

Sorry if there are too many questions and if it's too long. But it looks like the guy has done his homework better than most.

Thanks for your help

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Originally Posted by taz2781

Look here there are two design of a dry cell, plans to be more specific and with their autocad drawings.

Dry cell plans

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Thanks Taz for the drawings. These make it simple to build and understand. Are you using one of these designs?

I don't understand how you get the right voltage with an 11 plate design.

13.8 (normal alternator output) divide by 11 = 1.25. That shouldn't be enough voltage.