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Hello, I am wanting to build and setup an hho system on an atv. ( 2003 Honda Recon TRX250) What I am unsure about is how to connect the hho gas line and do I have to rejet the carburetor with smaller jets since I am supplying hho? I am new to hho, I have only built one crude wet cell with 304ss plates cause they were cheaper. But now I would like to build a dry cell using 316ss and do everything right.
Thanks.
HydroJ,
On an ATV the real concern is keeping electrolyte in your reactor and out of your engine. I suggest you take a look at a drainback style dry reservoir and waterless bubbler like Koya uses. As for where to pipe in the gas, if you can assure its dryness then right into airstream immediately in front of the butterfly, if you can not assure its dryness, then into the airbox external to the air filter. I would not immediately consider re-jetting, rather wait and see what the results are from HHO adddition first.
hmm O.K. So if I use Koya's waterless bubbler design I should have dry gas coming out. I have heard that having some water vapor in the gas will help keep your engine clean. So if I used a bubbler to scrub the electrolyte would that work well? When you say in front of the butterfly, do you mean between the carb and the engine head, or between the air filter and carb?
Thanks.
-Water mist DOES keep your engine clean, but the water itself must be clean, meaning no electrolyte in the water.. The water vapor (fog, mist, micro-droplets, whatever) coming off of any reactor that uses electrolyte will contain electrolyte. Water bubblers only remove a portion of it, to remove all of it (for the nit-pickers out there "almost" all of it) you have to use some type of filtering media. This media can be made of many different materials, but the material has to be able to chemically withstand the type of electrolyte you choose to use. You may add moisture back into the gas by bubbling it through a water bubbler after it is "dry scrubbed" in the filter media.
--Between air filter and carb.
Hi guys,Quote:
Originally Posted by BioFarmer93
I used waterless Peat Moss Bubbler since about 8-10 months and it work very very well. Peat moss is a biological component, and its pH is between 3.5 and 5. It therefore allows to properly clean the HHO gas.
This type of bubbler created very little pressure (± 1-2 psi) on the system. Currently, the temperature is about -18 ° C and the bubbler works very well.
[IMG]http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/28...ssbubbler1.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HHO-Waterless...418268&vxp=mtr
I have been testing the Peat Moss for months both on the bench (24/7) and on a vehicle and have found that it removes, if not all, enough of the alkaline electrolyte to have no effect on a piece of aluminum that the HHO has been directly hitting. I am trying to see how long it lasts before it becomes saturated and needs to be changed. It has proven to be much longer than an oil change in the volume I am using. This discovery was made by Quebecker. I must thank him for sharing it. I am working on a disposal cheap filter that will last at least more than 5000 miles before it needs to be changed. I will post it when all the testing is done. Quebecker's testing in the frozen north proves that even in extreme cold it still does an efficient job.
I am glad to see that someone has taken advantage of the design I shared with the forum, although I was not expecting for anyone to turn it into a business adventure. Your interpretature is crude and requires more material. Just to show you how easily I can share, find yourself a plastic radiator drain valve. Oh yeah, just to let you know that design is now being used without the use of a drain valve, it has a self draining valve for vacuum induction.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quebecker
Myold,
Since this is my design I've been using it on my Ram with 29K miles. No need to create one to dispose of. If you build one 18" or longer with the syntetic fiber I originally post, you don't need to dispose of it. Oh yeah, we've been getting freezing temp here. so it works well in freezing temp.
so, Koya, you can wash the polyester fiber out and reuse it? What do you wash it with?
It seams like the polyester is a better filter than peet moss.
If the electrolyte is expelled with the gas, then you will need to add water and electrolyte mix to your cell?
I read somewhere that the electrolyte stayed in the cell and that you would only need to add water.
How does the vacuum induced valve work? It seams like it would be easier just to open a ball valve to drain it.
Koya, the one I am working on is nothing like what Quebecker has made. Mine is very small takes no room and still does the job. Dry filters have been used for years with HHO and the only difference is Quebecker has found a material that is cheap and works very well. Not many people will want to clean out the filter, drain it, or mess with it at all. My design is like an in line fuel filter and is used with a reactor that has very little moisture coming to where the filter is located. Some vehicles have no room to conveniently install an 18 inch filter. When testing is completed I will post it.Quote:
I am glad to see that someone has taken advantage of the design I shared with the forum, although I was not expecting for anyone to turn it into a business adventure. Your interpretature is crude and requires more material. Just to show you how easily I can share, find yourself a plastic radiator drain valve. Oh yeah, just to let you know that design is now being used without the use of a drain valve, it has a self draining valve for vacuum induction.
Myold,
Since this is my design I've been using it on my Ram with 29K miles. No need to create one to dispose of. If you build one 18" or longer with the syntetic fiber I originally post, you don't need to dispose of it. Oh yeah, we've been getting freezing temp here. so it works well in freezing temp.