HHO ECU tuning the right way
Hi guys, this is my first time posting but I'm not new to vehicles and modifications. I've been looking into HHO for some time and until now haven't heard enough first hand accounts of success. Now that I know it works in reality I need to be able to have it work properly and reliably.
I've read all about the signal modifiers for the MAF and o2 sensors and understand why they are being made but I don't believe that's the right way for me. Tricking a cars computer is bad idea because it functions on so many levels. You modify you MAF signal and your load values are all skewed which has effects on your timing etc. You fool your o2 sensors to get a nice mpg improvement but a month or whatever later you find you melted a piston by running it too lean and rippin on it. This car is going to be my DD for a 150k round trip daily and will see some serious abuse on and off the track. While driving to work last summer I could get 24mpg over a weeks highway commute at 120kph. I'd love to see 30+
I have a 1994 Mustang GT with a mild performance built 5.0l, Tweecer hardware interface for ECU and Binary Editor and EEC analyser software for tuning as well as a Innovate wideband o2 sensor and display for a tuning aid. The only other thing that would make this a perfect test vehicle is EGT monitoring gauges. 300 rwhp
1.
My big question is what air fuel ratio I should be running with HHO gas? For gasoline the stoichiometric burn ratio is 14.64 to 1. What is the Stoic burn ratio for a given gasoline and hho mixture?
2.
What is the limit of the stock narrowband sensors for reading a lean burn? Can I effectively modify my tune to make it all work? has anybody tuned an ECU for performance and HHO gas? Thanks all
what AFR to use with LC-1
That's what I am doing right now. I bought the Innovate LC-1 to control my O2. This is all well addressed by PJ Kelly's site. He shows just moving the lean/rich toggle point for a narrow band simulation up 1 point, i.e. instead of toggling at 14.5~, toggle at 15.5. That's where I am starting... Doing a Buick Cent. '02. These GM engines have a MAP and MAF, freq based to boot. Any car that bothers to put use both a MAF and MAP sensor, I figure I got to control both, those two things got to give the ECU designer pretty tight control over engine performance. Just a hunch... So most vehicles they seem to say you get control of the ECU with just a MAP and the O2. I would bet otherwise on these GM engines. Got a Ford Windstar I am looking at, I think it just has a MAF. Def. gonna look at 16+ AFR. They say do it until the engine starts to run poorly, then back off. Using a Jaycar DFA on the MAP, Total control of all signals, can make it do whatever you want. Built it myself from the kit, $60, about 2 mos. project. Since its my first tuning attempt, also installed an Auber Instrument EGT to keep an eye on things.