Ph Levels and Efficiency

Hi everyone! I'm new at this, but I've been buried in research for a couple of weeks now and have been having a blast learning about this technology!

Anyways- to the point!

• http://www.usc.edu/CSSF/History/2006/Projects/J0538.pdf

Even though the electrolyte used was an acidic compound instead of an alkaline, I found his results interesting. According to his tests, lower Ph of the water showed a better efficiency of HHO production? And may be a factor with electrolytes of choice, being too alkaline/acidic.

If this is truly the case, I was wondering that maybe Ph control methods used for fish tanks may be helpful in maintaining a proper balance? for instance adding a small amount of Calcitic gravel?

I've also been researching if Calcitic gravel, added to the water would provide a sufficient electrolyte supply to the water? If so it would serve as a longterm electrolyte additive, but I have been having trouble finding answers to that question...

Thanks for your help!

I gave up a long time ago trying to convince people of the benefits of a low concentration of electrolyte. People have been so stuck on lowering the resistance of the electrolyte and have not tested the advantages of low concentrations in relation to efficiency and quality of gas. There are only a few of us that have tested this and use low concentrations of electrolyte. You have to make up the required volume in other ways other than concentration. We are forced to use full concentration in the winter though which is one of the trade offs of extreme cold weather. Unfortunately to many have resorted to higher voltage to achieve there goals which again is the wrong way to go.

I would be interested in what you find in regards to Calcitic gravel.

So I use about 1 teaspoon of NaOH with a liter of distilled water. That gives me a maximum of 15 amps about with the PWM turned all the way. Is that a good amount?

[QUOTE]So I use about 1 teaspoon of NaOH with a liter of distilled water. That gives me a maximum of 15 amps about with the PWM turned all the way. Is that a good amount?/QUOTE]

I do not under stand why you need a PWM if you are not using maximum amount of electrolyte which is about 2 pounds of NaOH for 1 gallon of distilled water. There is no benefit if you control the amps with concentration and then use a PWM also. Do it on way or the the other. Max strength and PWM or no PWM and controlled amount of electrolyte. I recommend the later except in winter for normal cases. There are exceptions.

I thought the PWM would make it easier to fine tune the system- to see what my car operates at best. What I've gathered from this thread is that the less electrolyte the better HHO?
I'm still confused about how the system works with different cars. Wouldn't it be beneficial to increase the amount of production on the highway and limit it in city driving?
I also live in NYS so I do have to worry about freezing conditions too.

Quote:

---

I thought the PWM would make it easier to fine tune the system- to see what my car operates at best. What I've gathered from this thread is that the less electrolyte the better HHO?
I'm still confused about how the system works with different cars. Wouldn't it be beneficial to increase the amount of production on the highway and limit it in city driving?
I also live in NYS so I do have to worry about freezing conditions too.

---

All of the above are correct. If you are just using it to find the correct amount of production in regards to amps/volume of gas, then OK but you still need to go to a stronger mixture to do this so the PWM is actually doing something. You are running the PWM at 100% I think you said so that is like having no PWM.

Actually in my testing I have found that it is better to vary the amount of HHO in three levels. OFF at idle, full on when accelerating and just the right amount at cursing speeds. To do this while driving would be dangerous using a knob on the PWM. Automatic systems are in the works but will be some time before they get to market. Of course the best would be smooth transitions but maybe not worth it. This is a much more complex setup and needs a lot more testing. In the meantime you have to settle on the best spot that at least gives you gains and stays there which is not that easy either.

Winter where things can freeze will require even more trade offs which all result is less gain. Such is life.

I'm not operating it at 100%
What I am doing since I am still trying to figure out how to get MPG gains is altering the amps at different times. If I am going to take a highway trip I turn up the amps higher. Around town I will cruise a lot since there are many hills and I drive a stick so that would be good to lower the amps.