Done with wet cells!!

I have built 3 wet cells since I started in January and have learned alot from them and decent people like ye willing so share what ye have learned.The first unit was an 19 plate 3"x6" 304ss .9mm plates in this sequence +n:nn:nn:n-n:nn:nn:n+(:=nut)2mm gap between plates and a 5" pvc pipe container.First used distilled vinegar with no results then used naoh.Result was plates corroded and container collapsed!!! The second was 16 3"x6" 316ss 2mm plates with a 2mm gap and this sequence +nnnnnnnn-nnnnnnnn+ using koh electrolyte and 5"Pvc pipe container.Result= worked fine for an hour then melted pvc again even though I ran it at 8-10 amps using a welder amp adjuster to stabalise it,I realised that the heat from the motor melted the pvc not the cell!!! The last cell was the second cell above which was in perfect condition with a large 3ltr rectangular 6mm acrylic container.Result=worked well for a day but didnt see any result on my 2.2ltr diesel Opel Vectra then I realised it was only oxygen in the bubbler as the hydrogen was slipping out the back door lol.My conclusion is that wet cells are a waste of time as they will leak hydrogen as U make it sooner or later!!! I am about to build a dry cell using 19 8x8" 2mm 316ss plates with butyl/epmd polymer rubber 3mm seals and a zff type pmw 150amp cont and 100amp cont relay!! How does that sound to ye guys as I will be building it shortly and any expert advice would be apreciated...The reason for all the neutrals is for lobg distance and cooler running of cell as I plan to keep it between 15-20 amps!!! Thanks for any imput.!!!!!!!!!!!!

With 8 neutral plates you'll be lucky if you get any production. If your input is a constant 13.8 volts, each cell would only be receiving 1.53 vdc, way below the target area. You want around 2 volts or so per gap. Change the plate arrangement to -NNNNN+NNNNN-NNNNN+. This will give you 2.3 volts per cell. If you find that the reactor runs too warm (it shouldn't), either add 3 more neutrals or simply change it to -NNNNNN+NNNNNN- for 1.97 volts per cell.
As far as the amp draw, it depends on the active surface area. If you go over .5 amps per sq. in., the plates will deteriorate muck more quickly. You most likely have 10 sq. in. of surface area, so only allow 5 amps per stack.

Thanks for that!!! I will start with 6 neutrals and see how it goes!! Here is something you might help me understand? I see all these hho flow meters (upright tube with water and a 1.5ltr bottle) being used to test output from cells but doesnt the gas produce lift of the bottle without actually filling it as hydrogen creats boyancy????

As far as the amp draw, it depends on the active surface area. If you go over .5 amps per sq. in., the plates will deteriorate muck more quickly. You most likely have 10 sq. in. of surface area, so only allow 5 amps per stack.[/QUOTE]

Lee, Didn't H2O HHO say he was going to use 19 plates 8"x8", now allowing for gasket material let's say of 1" wide his reactive area would be 36 sq"(6x6), which would let him run 18 amps per stack. Am I missing something.

Yeah, you're right. I was looking at his 2nd build (3x6). Duh!

My first cell was wet cell, made out of 3/16 316L stainless marine rope. It was +3N-, the coil assembly weighed about 6 LB, and it has a lots of flaws, mainly related to electrical connections inside the wet reservoir. At about 50 amps it gave me close to 3 LPM but the problem I immediately faced when ran it at 3400 Hz, was high resonance of the cell (which is good), but my connections started heating badly and what I ended up with, was two explosions inside the PVC pipe wet cell reservoir.

My conclusion: the wet cells are very dangerous at any productions over 1 LPM. The coil is laying in my basement, and whoever is interested in seeing the pictures (wonderful design of the coil though) I will post them here.

One other thing you need to consider when you finally build this dry cell. the equalizing holes cannot aligned with each other and make them too large. Go with this configuration -NNNNNN+NNNNNN-, that's the configuration I am running with on my F-150 which I drive 3-4 hours straight without getting hot and not draw beyond 20 amps.

I built my first dry cell -nnnnnn+nnnnnn- 2mmx200x200 316ss with 3mm butyl/epdm high temp gaskets 10mm seal width and 20mm acrylic end plates held with 20 m6 threaded bar,all peachy so far but I decided not to cross sand my plates to see if I could get enough output without compromising the life of the unit but it didnt work for 2 reasons which I think was worth the leason!! The first was I couldnt draw more than 4.5amps continious and 7amps on start up and the second was that the plates bronzed over(surface coating, bronze colour)due to the smooth surface...I am going to cross sand(4 directions) and probably change to -nnnnn+nnnnn-nnnnn+ 3 cell setup. By the way the cell never changed the water temp even though I ran it for 4hrs (probably coz it only ran at 4.5amps,lol) and it only made .5ltr Hydroxy per min. I will learn from my errors and battle on until I am at one with my hydroxy generator and have no problem letting everyone know my mistakes as thats how we learn!!!

Cross sanding will help, but if you can media-blast them with 70 grit, it will be better. BTW, the bronze coloring is natural.

Thanks for the info,today I cross sanded my plates and hooked my cell back up,it pulled 9 amps and 3/4 ltr per min but when I checked it it was shoving heaps of gas on one bank and nothing on the second bank? So I stripped the - electrode off the second bank and gave it another clean, remounted and reconnected it,, hey presto it worked but dropped to 7.5 amps but was kicking out some gas! When I restarted my car 30 mins later it was only holding 6.2 amps and didnt have any movement or froth like earlier??? This little baby is definately gona make me learn the hard way!!!!