Printable View
Is it possible to order a fs1, fs2, or fs,3 that will work on a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3 liter. I looked it up and they hook into the obd-II connection and I have that connection. Has anyone tried these on a car that's older than 1996 with any luck? I don't want to fry the existing computer or ruin my motor but I would like to use one of these if I can.
The Buick will have an OBD 1 port. OBD 2 wasn't used until '96 production.
None of the Volo chips will work on a '92. All you'll need is a good system that will put out at least 1.65 LPM and an analog EFIE. Once everything is up and running, merely retard the timing a few degrees at a time until optimum performance is achieved.
Ok I have been looking into the EFIE and I have found both digital and analog. Which is better? I want one thats easy to setup and install. I am not too worried about the install as they seem to be 4 wires two for power and one to o2 sensor and another to the computer. But how does the calibration work once i get it installed. The ones i have seen have had a knob for adjustment, but what am I adjusting?Quote:
Originally Posted by lhazleton
Also the cell i am looking at is a 21 plate dry cell. It "says" it produces between 2- 8 lpm, from 10- 30 volts and from 3-50 amps. these numbers seem a little high and brawd to me but I am ttoally new to this stuff so I also ask if this is a good cell or a good paperweight? the website for it is http://eewarehouse.amazonwebstore.co...B0046ET5KW.htm
The reactor you have given a link to is one that is on the bottom of the scale when it comes to efficiency and in no way can it do what the seller claims. Sorry but that is a fact. You will be very lucky to make 1 lpm of moisture free HHO with that type of reactor with out over driving it and causing all kinds of problems. It is a water boiler and could be used to make tea or instant coffee. LOL
lol. well thanx for the heads up. yeah i was wondering about that after i watched the videos in the thread for newbies. i think it was newbies lounge. but it has an amazing amount of info in about 6 videos to help get me up to speed.
But i am now obligated to ask. What cells are you guys using? I have decided i want to use a dry cell. After all the videos and articles I have seen and read I feel alot better about the dry cells. They also seem to be what the majority are using as well.
Most of us use Drycell reactors that we've built ourselves. Most of the 'kits' are improperly constructed. The one that you posted a link to obviously uses brushed stainless. Best results are achieved by using quality 316L s/s that has been media blasted and conditioned. Also, the Chinese one that you looked at has acrylic endplates - these will crack over time. My original reactor had 3/4" thick acrylic, and it still cracked after a few months.