1 = -+ works ok but over 160 Degrees at 21 amps - get about 0.7 LPM
2 = -N+ works near same as one
3 = -NN+ and 20 amp - 120 Deg and 1.4 LPM === at 28A - 1.8 LPM
4 = -NNNNN++NNNNN- 30A - 0.8 LPM
all at 12.2 - 12.7V
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I have my plate set up as follows +NNNN--NNNN+. This produces a lot of HHo at low temps. My generator is made from 4" PVC tube which holds 2.5L of electrolyte, which is made up using puified water from my dehumidifier and 1 2/3tsp. of sodium hydroxide (crystal drain cleaner). Has anyone ran anything similar to this and am I to expect any problems? I've only been running this for a couple of weeks, but seems OK so far.
I'm building something like this.
Water in is from the bottom, out from the top.
Positive and negative got different pipes to spread HHO from O.
I tried this with 3 cells, I thought it wasn't working but after a wile it run quite well.
It needed to be "charged", that the water flew on the circle from up to down.
I don't need to change O2 sensor parameter, I don't need to cheat the electronic, I just separate the O from the HHO.
With 3 cells I had 27% better mileage.
One cell is build this way:
NN+NN, the next one NN-NN.
With 3 cells, I needed 4,2 liter of water, the flow was quite fast and the temp. low all the time.
I had 45'C after 700km non stop running. (9 hours).
With 6 cells, I'm trying to put in an AMP. regulator couple with the RPM of the Jeep, Higher the RPM is more AMP. it will be.
As soon as I will finish this, I will make a picture.
Stephane,
The question had been posed before if seperating the gasses would nullify the need for an efie. No one knew for sure, but I had speculated that it would not because the fuel would burn more completely and still provide cleaner emissions. I had thought the cleaner emissions would trigger the ecu to dump more fuel. The results you say you are getting means I was quite wrong.
Russ, here's where your experiment with magnets for electrodes becomes very interesting. Here is a great way to separate the gasses and really test this. Even if the magnets degrade in preliminary testing, this could be a step forward in getting around that damned computer.
I've found out that the ECU take in account not fuel but O2.
If in the exaust manifold there is too much O2, the computer is giving more gas to "burn" it.
When I separate O from HO, the "free" O is a lot less than it should be
Because the HO take some O needed by the gasoline, so the lambda check (in catalizator) ask the computer to give less gasoline (it cannot give more air ).
In fact, I'm running on a poor mix. Just as I would have with an EFI but well controlled by the computer that try to "save" the valves.
I will see if my theories are good in a couple of month...
Anyway you are not able to control this as well when you are using an EFI, changing the O2 sensor impuls give the same but without "fluent" control on every RPM range.
I always error on the side of negative plates. If I have room for an odd number of plates for example; -+-+- will be my config. I used to run with -N+N-N+N-, or two neutrals in between my connected plates. I prefer open bath designs for simplicity and the neutrals would cause me production issues. I could watch the water flow (current flow) bypass the neutrals in the bath and less HHO was the result. I used colored electrolyte and a glass container to watch what was going on. Also, ohms law comes into play when you're dividing up the current with series/parallel (using neutrals) cell designs. If series cells are your preference, simple dry cells are +NNNNN- the way to go. No leakage current around the plates. I've built series cells and PWM's and officially prefer brute force.
The -+-+-+-, w/ neg plates always on the outside, is my current favorite.
ps. I'm not selling or endorsing anything, just giving alternatives.
I am running -nnnn+nnnn- and -nnn+nnn- with both units 1/3 gain in mpg I know for sure running scan gauge
so would u only wrap the - and or + and leave the n unwraped
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