looking to use nickle as my plates looking to reuse something or make
plates out of something out of it, any idea or cheap source for nickle plates
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looking to use nickle as my plates looking to reuse something or make
plates out of something out of it, any idea or cheap source for nickle plates
Nickel is supposed to work better than stainless but I am afraid that pure nickel will not come cheap. There are some nickel blends that look affordable but I am told those will not work. It has to be pure nickel.Quote:
Originally Posted by eloid
Larry
nickel is the best... but where to get some scrap, or reused nickel
has anyone used recycled parts made from nickel.
I'm not sure if Nickel is any better than stainless steel 304 or 316 (15 percent Nickel).. Why would it be?
one very simple and very real danger....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nvtowing
Hexavalent Chromium.... is a buy product.... and now is in your Electrolyte... do a youtube seach and google
people die from this... its nasty,,,, and a big deal.... and your electrolyte is full of it ....if you use ANY type of stainless steel ...... all stainless steel have
some sort of element of chrominuim....
Ah... Gotchya.
Have you considered electro plating stainless with nickel?
the electro plateing will etch off sooner or later....
try a us nickel you see what happens.
the cheapest nickel i know of is in ur pocket.:D
And then it is only 25% nickel...Quote:
Originally Posted by mytoyotasucks
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_...d_States_coin)
US - 75% CopperQuote:
Originally Posted by Q-Hack!
25% Nickel
Canadian - 94.5% steel,
3.5% Cu,
2% Ni plating
no wonder the US dollar is worth more:D
going to try a few coins and see.:p
Canadian coin comp - and a got a few 99.9 % nickel
This forum is going to end up on some watch list (if it isn't already) for destroying currency. :D
well its his 5 cent opinon...right lol
lol well if the US nickel is even 25%.... lol. Im sure there is a way to separate it...
Lucky you, guys, just think about people like me, living in the european community... our "nickels" are yellow, brass made :(
Meanwhile, as my ex-wife requested my help for putting out his old dishwasher, I am seriously considering about extracting some nickel plated pieces before taking it out to the recycling/disposal area.
Have you considered taking a tour to your local waste disposal area? Lots of electro-appliances for home use are rich in nickel plated parts and/or stainless steel.
My only problem by now is how to manage to recognize parts plated with CHROME, as formation of hexavalent chromium compounds inside the electrolyzer is very possible and is one of the last things I would like to happen close to me...
Any ideeas on how to recognize Ni, Cr and other related metals?
Thank you.
Look for non magnetic metals, nickel is non magnetic, and good stainless is not very magnetic, chrome is magnetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltherPP9mm
Actually that is a very common misconception. There are three common magnetic metals. They are Iron, Nickel, and Cobalt. There are other very rare elements that are magnetic but they are very rare.Quote:
Originally Posted by mytoyotasucks
Larry
my 99.9% nickel money is non magnetic, but my 25% nickel money is. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by H2OPWR
ok my bad - didnt look at the years of the coins - the 99.9% are magnetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by mytoyotasucks
ok Tried the 99.9% nickel money and very little production.
my 304 switch plates did way more production, same electrolyte and same voltage.
There are many nickel types of plate available. While doing research on the nano particle project I ran into the information. Most plates put into the very large industrial electrolizers are Nickel 200. The oil companies use them to make hho. They then seperate the H from the O and somehow use the H for some part of the oil production. They are now finding this process of nano coated nickel 200 plates to not only be effecient but last for years with no maintnance. The question that I can not find the answer for is what the differences in effeciency are between stainless and nickel. This is used mostly by big oil and they do not release effeciency numbers.
Larry
why not try a quarter I believe thats about the same as a nickle but its larger more nickle for your coin
Someone can take a look at this... and give me some opinion...
http://www.americanelements.com/fuel-cell.html
http://www.americanelements.com/nimpl.html
What about using c71500 a 70/30 blend of copper nickel which is very corrosion resistant. Has any body tried that?
I was at a recycling yard yesterday. They use a gun to read the molecular structure adn can tell you the percent metals that make up acertain sheet. They could find platinum, iron, nickel etc then it also read the grade of material and what makes it up. They could tell me the grade of stainless. Found a sheet of iconel. Thinking I should go back and buy the iconel for experimental but I think they wanted like 10.00 lbs for iconel.
I got 304 stainless for 1.60/lb. They wanted 1.90/ib for 316 but I could not find any 316.
I also picked up some 1/2" acrylic for 1.50 lbs.
Also I multiply the sheet dimensions by the density so I can precalculat what the sheet will cost before dragginng it to the scale.
Acrylic will eventually crack at your bolt holes. You might want to use a plastic cutting board, or if they have nylon or HDPE at the scrap yard.
I decided to give nickel a try I know it is a low content of it but I found some kick plates for doors... I will be doing a test in a couple days of a wet call of it a.d I will let know know what if anythjng comes from it. If it fails I am out four dollars cause it was on clear
ance at menards.
How much are you getting for 4 bucks?
It was a kick plate for a door. it measures 8 inches wide and 32 inches long. I would need two to make 1 cell but upon opening the package just now to start drawing out the plates to stat cutting tomorrow I discovered that it is only steel with a nickel plating on one side. So I am not even going to try it. I think for the time being I am stuck paying the $200 for my 316l plates to be cut. If i had a proper shop to tinker in, and the extra money and time I would try alot of differnt materials and see what happens but I don't so I can't.
And I presume that the plates ended up turning black upon electrolysis. No cheap way out here.
A few years ago I was living off the power grid with some friends and we went to the scrap yard looking for some deep cycle batteries. Ended up getting some huge nicad forklift batteries for free. Turned out we couldn't use them for power but uon disassembleing them discovered that they had stacks of dense perforated nickel coated steel plates all bolted together and spaced just about an 1/8" apart. Plates were about 8"x12"
Like these
As a side note be careful if you go this route as the negative half of the plates in each battery are the cadmium ones they are a separate assembly from the positive nickel plated steel plates but cadmium is a heavy metal and it must be disposed of properly. Also the electrolyte in these batteries is potassium hydroxyde please be careful.
"Sintered nickel-cadmium cells have relatively thin sintered nickel matrices as the plate grid structure. These matrices are highly porous and are impregnated with the active positive (nickel) or negative (cadmium)material in the solution state. The plates are then formed electrochemically, washed and dried. In other variations of the process the active material in the sintered matrix is converted chemically, or thermally, to an active state and then formed.":D
Thermo Scientific Pierce Nickel Coated Plates provide a simple format to bind His-tagged fusion proteins for ELISA and other plate-based assays involving protein interactions of expressed recombinant proteins. These Ni(2+) chelate coated plates are ideal for analyzing polyhistidine tagged fusion proteins by ELISA-based methods.
we did electro plating stainless with nickel , cost too much then pure nickel,Quote:
Originally Posted by nvtowing
and nickel plated won't last ,so just go pure nickel