Trying to install a HHO kit for the first time...

[Viper77]

I just had to take the generator out of the car due to other problem (have to change the water bomb, the HHO generator is not running yet) and took the opportunity to open it and take a picture on the inside, nothing really fancy as you can see...

[Q-Hack!]

I predict that you will have a major problem with the terminals heating up and melting that nice box. If I were you, I would keep a close eye on your temps as you run this thing.

[FuzzyTomCat]

I predict that you will have a major problem with the terminals heating up and melting that nice box. If I were you, I would keep a close eye on your temps as you run this thing.

I agree these grey PVC "electrical boxes" may have a good temperature rating -40F to 185F but the factory cover gaskets are thin 1/32" to 1/16" and not really made from a material to hold fluids inside. The brass inserts in the back or bottom inside may also contaminate your electrolyte depending on which catalyst your using.

If the grey starts turning "brown" anywhere at all the box is way to hot.

Good Luck,
Fuzzy

[c02cutter]

How much production do they claim out of this unit. Just curious as I played with designs similar but my own. I may have replacement parts... If they snagged my drawings.. lol, wouldn't that be a trip.

[hydrotinkerer]

Just wondering what kind of catalyst the manufacturer wants you to use, and does manufacturer give a measurment of how much?

[candyman55]

I doubt that you will achieve any more than 1/2 LPM at best if that. heat will probably be the big issue I think a little silicone on the brass parts will also help. as the brass corrodes in the electolyte the temp will climb.

[Viper77]

Thanks for your input guys! So it looks like the unit is not as good as they wanted me to believe

Q-Hack!: Thanks for your suggestion, i don´t know how they can give then a 3-year warranty if the box will melt so easily.

FuzzyTomCat: Please tell me what you mean with "cover gaskets", sorry but english is not my native tongue.

c02cutter: These are the specs for this unit:

The H2O HMP 20 is designed specifically for smaller 3.0 liter engines. Producing 4 gallons of Hydrogen per hour maximizes its range up to 200 Miles!

H2O HMP 20 Specs:
Designed specifically for 3.0 Liter Engines
200 Mileage Range
4 Gallons of Hydrogen per hour
12 to 18 amps
ISO 9001 Certified Manufacture

hydrotinkerer: According to their instructions, this is what they recommend:
Fill your booster with distilled water and NaOH or KOH ONLY!!! No tap water, salt water or rainwater!!! No table salt or baking soda! These materials will permanently damage the booster. First fill the booster with distilled water about 2" from the top. Add a teaspoon of KOH and NaOH to the water and then slide the top into place
I was planning to use NaOH because it´s cheaper and easier to find.

candyman55: I will take that into consideration, is there anything else that you would recommend to improve this apparently lousy unit?

[sm0kin]

if you ever venture to take it apart i would wrap the bolts. you could use rubber tubing matched to size and just slip over the bolts.

[hmp]

Material: Fiberglass reinforced Polyester plastic.
• Impact Resistance: >7Nm, EN50014.
• Flammability: Self-extinguishing, UL 94 V0.
• Gasket Temperature Range:
Polyurethane Foam Gasket –40ºF to +194ºF
Silicone Foam Gasket –76º°F to +266ºF
Neoprene Gasket –40ºF to +212º°F
RFI Gasket –40ºF to +392ºF
• Captive Stainless Steel Lid Screws.
• Surface Resistance: >1012 Ohm to DIN 53482.
• Disruptive Strength: 18KV / mm to DIN 53482.
• Toxicity: Halogen Free.
• Protection Classifications:
NEMA Types: up to Nema 4, 4X
IP 66, EN 60529
• Approvals:
UL Listed File #E206630, UL 50, UL 508
CSA Approved
Det Norske Veritas File #828.11/FERe
Maritime Register of Shipping #83033.250


This unit produces more than most for its size...And remember..A confused mind says NO... ALL 316L RODS AND ALL WASHERS BOLTS 9001 ISO PARTS WITH CERTIFICATES..DEED MORE DETAILS CALL 805-277-3617
H2OHYBRID.ORG

[Q-Hack!]

Its the stray current flowing from one threaded rod to the other that will create the excess heat. Like SmOkin suggests, wrap those bolts (allthread) up with heatshrink tubing. Then you can play with the electrolyte levels and perhaps make it a bit more efficient. I am curious what your MMW is on that cell.

http://www.watervan.co.uk/tools.php