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Thread: Just want a voltage control

  1. #11
    TreyNC Guest

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    PT_Texas,
    Congads, I am planing on starting my experiments early next week. I am going to do one thing at a time and document my results. I want to tryout several different things with out spending a lot of cash. My truck is a 1994 so maybe I wont have to do much for a modest mpg gain. I was just concerned about heat and the size of my generator. Time will tell.

  2. #12
    dennis13030 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lascalll View Post
    You got the info you asked for, fine. This 30 amps DC dimmer is sold for $122 + shipping. A Qkits 30 amps PWM is sold for 18$ + shipping. Controlling the working voltage this way would only bring down the efficiency of your generator.

    Think about neutral plates. It's easy to obtain & cheap to build. 8 plates forming 7 active gaps would run on a working voltage brought to (12-14 v / 7) = 1.7 / 2 volts per plates. Looks like this : + N N N N N N -. Then adjust your amps draw with electrolyte...

    Most of every things we think of and sometimes try is lost somewhere on a bench. You can always find the results of those experimentations on a forum. Amps, voltage, generator gaps. It seem we are all trying to produce HHO over unity. We cannot invent power. Making an engine more efficient, we can do... Maybe testing is the way to improove HHO world but right now, we have billions cars to equip... And a planet to save ...

    Have fun !
    I agree...........

  3. #13

    Default Pwm?

    TreyNC,

    PWM is the way to go because it is the most efficient method of controlling current. Any other way is going to generate lots of waste heat. Generating that waste heat will put a unnecessary drag on the alternator, and the engine.

  4. #14
    dennis13030 Guest

    Default Controlling Heat and Current Draw

    The best and cheapest way to control(reduce) heat and current draw is to

    1. Add neutral plates or
    2. Use less chemical in the electrolyte mix or
    3. Both 1 and 2 above.

  5. #15
    JonDoh Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lascalll View Post
    A Qkits 30 amps PWM is sold for 18$ + shipping.
    Where can you get that PWM kit?????(link)?????

    What about using one of those home dimmer light switches?? It's 120v...... don't know if it'll work with 12v?

    What bout just throwing in a resistor to bring down the voltage? Anybody got a formula?
    Last edited by JonDoh; 09-05-2008 at 01:28 PM.

  6. #16
    HHO King Guest

    Default 30 Amp PWM With Gauge and Cooling Fan

    Quote Originally Posted by TreyNC View Post
    Can anyone help me with what I need in just voltage control. I don't know much about electronics at all. I think I need a DC motor controler, but don't know what all the electronic jargin is. I want to be able to go from 0-12v or so and be able to handle amperage that can go along with a generator. I have up to 30Amp fuses.

    I was wanting to get something cheaper than a PWM and don't care about the pulse part. What do you guys think.
    If you want to save a lot of time and trouble just buy one like this one that is already assembled. Most of the pwm's on the market are just a board and nothing else.

    I found this one at Extreme HHO but i am sure there are others like it.

    http://www.extremehho.com
    Attached Images

  7. Default

    For voltage control use ohms law to create a voltage divider network. For current control, do the same thing. The result will be a high wattage, low ohm resistance in series with a brute force cell, no neutrals. It's a design that goes back to the mid 1800's and it works. Back in the days of huge rheostats and open winding motors and high voltage knife switches. I like technology just as much as the next guy, but...
    Making the cell into a water capacitor and over stressing it until you get catastrophic dielectric failure is cool to.
    Randohr
    02' Jeep; 18mpg Highway w/o HHO
    23mpg highway w/ HHO.
    Parallel plate water baths, 3vdc, 16A
    Efies(x4), MAP diode, AIT mod, WTS mod.

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