Originally Posted by gheuett
Saw where you got it fixed. Have you calculated impact on economy?
Packer Fan
(Brett a Backup? WTF?)
Saw where you got it fixed. Have you calculated impact on economy?
Packer Fan
(Brett a Backup? WTF?)
Here is the latest..
Tuesday night I tightened it up and reinstalled. I filled up the tank. As I drove, the mileage seemed to be ahead at normal points like 3/4 and 1/2. I'm now below 1/4 and it seems a little ahead but I won't know until I fill up today. It may be a difference but I'm not sure if it is much. I pulled the system again yesterday and found it had developed a small leak plus again my current draw was down around 5 amps so I'm not thinking that the production held up during this tank.
Ronjinsan is so right about leaks. I think the Smacks Booster design may have some weaknesses in that department - the cap (plumbers tape is always iffy) plus the tight area you have to work on the cap as far as your other hardware tends to shake things loose. These things are as bad as plumbing in your house!!
My intention is to keep learning on this one until I get it right and then take all the lessons and go build one that won't take a lot of babying.
The other possible variable is the car's ECM. Because I'm flying blind on that end, I don't know if the car has figured out what we have done and is compensating on the Oxygen sensor. One question I have for the crew out there is this - If the car is now overcompensating, would a air/fuel gauge now show that the mix is rich??? I would like to know some indicator of the car's reaction before I do anything else.
I'll post my mileage change shortly after I fill up today. I was tempted to fill up earlier in the test but I thought I need to keep it consistent with what I normally do which is run it down to close to empty.
Thanks!!
Gib
ghuett, I heard that permatex works really good for the leaks.
I'm building a smacksbooster type generator.
I have checked Lowes and HD and can only find 1/4" barb fittings.
Is 1/4" fittings and tubing ok or should I keep looking for 1/2"?
the lowes by me has 3/8 tubing and the 3/8 barb fitting.
Admin/Mentor
1/4 is perfectly fine as long as your vehicle can accept 1/4.
2006 Ram, 5.9 cummins HO. 4 cell design, 1.5 LPM@30amp, 24.3 MPG
For the truck i'm planning on drilling a hole in the air intake (after MAP) and feed the HHO in at that point.
Also if I install a bubbler do I need a back flow check valve?
I would recomend it. I would put it inbetween the the bubbler and generator. the bubbler helps with stoping the backfire into the generator, but why not just be that much safer.
Seeing that the check valve will be beyond the point in the system where there should be any water, can I use a brass check valve?
On the website (smakbooster) it says to NOT put it on the manifold. He said it will lower the boiling point of solution and cause water vapors to enter your manifold. I also had problems with the bubbler cracking when on the manifold. Also, when the engine is running at higher RPM's, the vacuum is less than when idling, causing the opposite effect (vacuum wise) you want on the unit.
I had mine on the manifold for awhile, it ran good,(engine still "learned" then my engine started to "learn". Lost MPG's I thought I had gained. Moved it over to the air intake, and can hardly notice anything.
So the bottom line was/ is on my vehicle, the manifold worked better.
My next question is, Is my O2 sensor wide band or narrow band. I installed 2 spark plug non foulers, and it did not help. Now I want to try an EFIE. I heard they will not work on wide band O2 sensors. I looked, on the Bosch site (the kind I have in mine), and it appears that 4 wired ones are not wide band, while the 5 wire ones are. I have a 4 wire. I want some reassurance from someone with experience that an EFIE will work on a 4 wire O2 sensor. 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6cyl is my vehicle. Also, would extending (plug non fouler)the second O2 sensor, located downstream of the Catalytic converter help?
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