Water4gas amperage?

[scubasteve1043]

I built the water4gas generator design with 4 pieces of 316 wire wrapping the acrylic plates for the positive, and 2 pieces of 302 wire wrapping for the negative. I was wondering how many amps it should be drawing without overheating. I tried the electrolyte sold on ebay and put in enough to get about 8 amps from the grenerator and the next day I pulled the generator apart and it had melted the acylic and the wires just broke and fell apart. I put new water in with about 1 tsp of baking soda today and have it running at about 4.5 amps now and the water is a whole lot clearer now that it was with the other electrolyte.

[Farmercal]

I built the same device, and then modified it with more precise measurements but the results were the same. In a matter of minutes it melted right through the frame. My suggestion to you is to abandon the Water4Trash idea and build another cell that works.

I am about to build my second type of cell and then I will start on a third design. People have built many designs right here on this forum and basically told everyone how to duplicate their efforts. Pick one that looks good to you and start building. Good Luck.

[redneckgearhead34]

My first design was water4gas. I built one for me and one for my buddy Chris. We put KOH in his and it is falling apart and we put baking soda in mine and it seems to be holding up fairly well.

Though it seems we have one major problem. We dont think we are producing enough hydrogen to make a difference. We dont know exactly how much we are putting out(i am about to go chack it once I get off the computer) but I dont think it is anywhere near the 1lpm the other guys on the forum are getting.

I am about to build my second and third and possible even fourth design here in the next week or so. I would recommend looking at a "smack" cell alond with the one that Smith03Jetta built for his Touareg and Jetta. They both look like very decent designs. The "smack" would be the easiest to build but smiths seems to be the most efficient. Which I believe that is what we are looking for.

[Walt]

It is true you can raise your amperage and production with more elecrolyte. BUT with an increace in amps you also get an increace in BTUs. BTUs kill small plastic generators like the W4G. 1 BTU will raise 1 lb of water 1 degree. 1 Watt=3.4BTU watt=VXA After you do the math you will soon see the W4G will operate at a stable production rate of .1LPM without melting. That is about the equivilent of a cat fart. If you are commited to the W4G design then don't get too greedy on production because you will melt down, leak, short and blow fuses. Keep your electrolyte levels low and your amps should not go above 2.5 hot. Even at 2.5a (12 v) you will gain around 70 degrees per hour (not considering heat loss which is minimal in an engine compartment).

[scubasteve1043]

Well I guess from what you all say is I need to get rid of the wired electrode design and prob use plates instead. I would like to still use the mason jar for the housing since I have already got it all put together. Where can I find good instructions to make a generator with the plates instead, and where can I find the plates? I have tools to cut my own plates with so I just need a place to find a sheet of stainless steel.

[FuzzyTomCat]

Well I guess from what you all say is I need to get rid of the wired electrode design and prob use plates instead. I would like to still use the mason jar for the housing since I have already got it all put together. Where can I find good instructions to make a generator with the plates instead, and where can I find the plates? I have tools to cut my own plates with so I just need a place to find a sheet of stainless steel.

Hi scubasteve1043,

It's a really good idea to go to something other than Stainless Steel wire, a good place to go for S.S. plates is Lowes or Home Depot for some "Blank" single gang cover plates (304 S.S.) for $1.79 ea. These plates are 4 1/2" x 2 3/4" with a total of 24.75 sq.in surface area (+) positive and (-) plate will give you 49.5 sq.in. total. To get the same sq.in. of .035 dia. stainless steel wire is about 454" of wire ( over 37'-0" ).

Good Luck,
Fuzzy

[scubasteve1043]

I actually went to lowes this afternoon in search of stainless steel, I found the sheets of steel you can buy for welding but they were just steel and not stainless. What you are talking about are like light switch or receptacle covers right? They are just blank with no cut outs though. If I go with those I read that its better to have them flat instead of the curved edges, so I'm guessin I should just cut the curved parts off. If I go this route how do I go about making the whole electrode, like how many plate get (+) (-) and neutral? and how do I put them together?

[Q-Hack!]

The Smack's design is a good place to start. A lot of good info in his design.

http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Smack.pdf

[FuzzyTomCat]

I actually went to lowes this afternoon in search of stainless steel, I found the sheets of steel you can buy for welding but they were just steel and not stainless. What you are talking about are like light switch or receptacle covers right? They are just blank with no cut outs though. If I go with those I read that its better to have them flat instead of the curved edges, so I'm guessin I should just cut the curved parts off. If I go this route how do I go about making the whole electrode, like how many plate get (+) (-) and neutral? and how do I put them together?

Hi scubasteve1043,

I've used these plates for quite some time and don't cut the curve edge off, actually I use it to my advantage in my 8 plate design.

For A 32 oz. mason jar -

Just use two plates configured - (+) ][ (-)
there will be alot of surface area compaired to the wire

The negitive and positives are connected thru the plates via SS screws and nuts to hold the cell and SS strap to the external terminals (-) & (+).

Use #10/32 SS screws sleeved with vinyl tube for insulation and 1/4" white nylon washers .0625 thk w/ 9/32" ID hole between the plates, SS washers on both ends (behind screw head and lock nut)

Drill a 5/16" dia hole where the existing holes are stock in the SS plates.

SS Straps should be 5/8" or so wide from cell to lid terminals.

When you can find a better housing than the mason jar, lots of options are available just look around.

Good Luck,
Fuzzy

[scubasteve1043]

Is that the same design that the smacks has? Do you have a positive and a negative on the outsides and then 6 neutral plates in the middle? Any pics? Also the main reason I wanna stay with the mason jar for now is theres not much room under my hood for anything else and once I get a generator thats working good my parents want me to put one on their car which is the same car I have so I will know exactly where to plut everything if I have the same setup. After I get one working I will prob experiment in the future with a different housingand maybe end up relocating it but not sure yet.