Water4gas amperage?

[JonDoh]

In a matter of minutes it melted right through the frame. My suggestion to you is to abandon the Water4Trash idea and build another cell that works.

Water4Trash... LOL!!!

Yep! just wanted let to others know same thing happened to mine! MELTDOWN!!

[scubasteve1043]

I got some plates from home depot today, all they had were 302 stainless steel and lowes didn't have any ss so I got the 302. I made a new generator but could only use 5 plates b/c thats all that would fit in the mason jar, I put them in this order + nnn - . I'm put it in the jar that already had about 1 tsp of baking soda in it and was getting like 2.5 amps draw and then added about another 1/2 tsp of baking soda to get up to about 4.5 amps draw.

I didn't sand any of the plates or insulate the posts yet b/c I just wanted to do a quick setup to make sure it worked and I will take it apart and do it right tomorrow.

I'm thinking maybe I should trim down the outside of the plates so that I can fit a few more plates in the jar. I am still wondering if the check valve on top of the lid that water4gas uses takes place of a bubbler or if I need to add a bubbler to mine? I want to make sure that it is safe b/c I sure can't afford any other problems right now like my motor blowing up, lol.

One more thing, is there some kind of housing that I could use that would be about the same size as the mason jar but a lot deeper so that I could stack another set of plates to get higher hho output? I don't wanna do pvc b/c I wanna be able to see whats going on unless pvc is just the best way to go in this situation.

[Walt]

Check valves leak quickly in a corosive environment. Rip it off and install a bubbler. I have a hunch unless you add a few more cells in series and reduce your voltage you will still have a heat problem. 700 ML is not enough for the BTUS you will be adding.

[GOplayer]

For the past two months I did my fair share of experimentation with Water4Gas type of HOD Gen. as my first project, like so many of us out there. Yes, it is relatively cheap way to get started and yes there are much better solutions are out there. My contribution at this time is the enhanced version of the water4gas HOD Gen design that comes down to this:
Housing: I use General Electric’s Water Filtration system (Home Depot $18.75 in NH USA).
Lowes carries Whirlpool’s equivalent for $3 more but they have a metal inlet for fitting your plumbing and if I’d known it before, I’d use that but either ways I get good seal by using not only Teflon tapes but also cold well and my seal as good as it gets. Unlike my mason jars where 5 out of 6 HOD Gen’s I built had HHO leaks.
Coil: I have a fellow in NY who produces me this new custom sized Plexiglas and increased length of wires as a kit, so if you choose to build your own then contact him here: http://www.ignitingwater.com/
Also I no longer use bolts as it resulted in one of my HOD Gen exploded! There is no need to use bolts with this new design. I’ll have a video made up soon to show you since my lack some words in English to describe it simply. Just remember this: SS bolts in the Water4gas HOD Gen design is DANGEROUS!!!! You are risking explosion!
Heat: Since my experimentation now progressed to integrate my HOD Gen into one of my vehicles, a Chevy Van, I have plenty of space to work with, so I deal with the heat by installing a 4 feet baseboard and see what happens. Yes, it is a crude solution and yes the best way to deal with heat is not to create it in the first place. Some of you already progressed to that point, I did not. My goal is to find out if this “cheap water4gas design can be made work and if so, how? (Then I progress to plate designs). If the info I am reading on pulsating the electricity to the HOD Gen will lower my heat production, then I might able to apply that to this water4gas type HOD generators and see what happens. If not, then simply by cooling the water is one way of dealing with the problem. Until I manage to get a PWM that makes a difference, I also plan to experiment with using multiple HOD Gens and manipulate the power on / off of them to manage heat production.
I learned a great deal of wisdom about HHO production from this web site:
Waterfuel.t35.com

Conclusion: Mason jar is poor and dangerous way to go! Yes it can work but I wasted more money on it than it cost to do it better using 120 PSI pressure rated water filtration systems. Plumbing and electrode hookup is much better, the system is significantly more durable. Heat is an issue but possible to deal with it in theory. Ask me for my findings in about 2 weeks on forward from Sept. 10th 2008 and I am happy to share what I got with my new 6 HOD Gen. (Today the van is in the shop to have a 2nd vacuum line installed, this time directly right into the intake manifold.) The Generators are due to be assembled today when the coils arrive from NY. The first units worked well as far as seal / HHO leaks is concerned. I experienced good increase in engine performance but 15 miles down the road, the coils melted. Now I have a solution for the heating problem, eager to find out how it works.
An outstanding question I posted:
Basic electrical question:
The anode or the cathode should be bigger when SS wires are used in spiral configuration to make an electrolyzer (AKA: HOD GEN)?
My “user manual” for the HOD Gen kit I purchased called for the positive to be the thicker wire while the negative the thinner. Then an “expert” told me that I got it backwards. Since I am not an expert, perhaps someone out there could point me to a resource that could conclusively show me which wire should be the positive hock up and then I can figure out where to hock up the thinner wire to ;-)
Thanks Z

[EltonBrandd]

I found a great way to keep heat down in water4trash design. Throw it in the trash. Then take what you have learned and build a plate design in sound container. There are tons of posts about all of the alternate choices.

[FuzzyTomCat]

I found a great way to keep heat down in water4trash design. Throw it in the trash. Then take what you have learned and build a plate design in sound container. There are tons of posts about all of the alternate choices.

I agree, the Water4Gas design by "Ozzie Freedom" should be avoided, its not worth the investment.

Regards,
Fuzzy

[Ezekiel 33]

Hi

I am another newbie here. Have been reading many of your threads over a period of a couple weeks. Lots of good info.

I started out to build the water4gas design, simply because it was the first one I came across, and because my buddy bought it. As I started gathering the items listed to build it, I came across this site and noticed that most of you are building plate designed generators.
With that in mind, I visited a friend who had some scrap pieces of stainless from commercial grade kitchen fixtures.
I cut 3 pieces to match the size of the plexiglass from the w4g design, adding an inch to the length of each for bending an ear on them.
I left one of them flat and used it as a neutral plate. The other 2 I bent in a 90 degree corner shape. All 3 of these are fastened to the plastic lid with a 5/16 stainless bolt, spaced apart by pieces of 1/8" scrap fiberglass, about 1/4" wide. I put a pair of spacers at both the top and the bottom.
This gave me plenty of surface to work with.
As an electrolyte, I used ashes from my pellet stove, which I noticed seem to be somewhat acidic from the smell and touch when cleaning my stove.

Not yet having a couple of wide-mouth jars, I placed this in an empty plastic Folgers container, just to see if I am even on the right trail. Using tap water and pellet ashes, I applied voltage to the + & - terminals with a battery charger placed momentarily on the "Start" mode. I was reading about 9 vdc between the + & - plates, and half of that between the neutral plate and either of the other two plates. It was bubbling like crazy and drawing about 9 amps according to the battery charger amp meter. I can't wait to get my jars, check valves and hoses so I can actually start really experimenting with the mixture. The water or the plates didn't seem to get hot, but the negative 5/16 bolt seemed quite hot from the current draw. I only ran it for a few minutes. I will keep you posted when I start the real experimentation, and also take some pictures if it seems like it is useable.

Thanks for your wonderful website and all of your valuable experiments and input!!!

ps

I will be trying this out on my 1983 Olds Cutlass, with a 3.8L V-6, carborated.
Anyone else working with an old carborated vehicle? Tips would be greatly appreciated!