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Thread: Which is the best plate configuration

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Southern Alberta Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by donnylynn View Post
    What voltage are you using? It looks like #4 dropped below the threshold voltage needed to produce.
    1 = -+ works ok but over 160 Degrees at 21 amps - get about 0.7 LPM
    2 = -N+ works near same as one
    3 = -NN+ and 20 amp - 120 Deg and 1.4 LPM === at 28A - 1.8 LPM
    4 = -NNNNN++NNNNN- 30A - 0.8 LPM

    all at 12.2 - 12.7V
    Come to the Darkside - We have Cookies
    And lots of KOH (16 LBS)

    Not currently running HHO.
    I dont run HHO during winter.

  2. #42
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    Aug 2008
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    Southern Alberta Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by mytoyotasucks View Post
    1 = -+ works ok but over 160 Degrees at 21 amps - get about 0.7 LPM
    2 = -N+ works near same as one
    3 = -NN+ and 20 amp - 120 Deg and 1.4 LPM === at 28A - 1.8 LPM
    4 = -NNNNN++NNNNN- 30A - 0.8 LPM

    all at 12.2 - 12.7V
    ok according to mmw calc, im getting 5.97 MMW.

    and thats at #3 At 22A, 13.7V, 1.8LPM.
    shuold i be happy with that??

    cause in another post some one said that "6.183 mmw theoretical max efficiency"
    Come to the Darkside - We have Cookies
    And lots of KOH (16 LBS)

    Not currently running HHO.
    I dont run HHO during winter.

  3. #43
    ejohnson44004 Guest

    Default plate configuration

    I have my plate set up as follows +NNNN--NNNN+. This produces a lot of HHo at low temps. My generator is made from 4" PVC tube which holds 2.5L of electrolyte, which is made up using puified water from my dehumidifier and 1 2/3tsp. of sodium hydroxide (crystal drain cleaner). Has anyone ran anything similar to this and am I to expect any problems? I've only been running this for a couple of weeks, but seems OK so far.

  4. #44

    Default 6 x times positive in serie

    I'm building something like this.
    Water in is from the bottom, out from the top.
    Positive and negative got different pipes to spread HHO from O.
    I tried this with 3 cells, I thought it wasn't working but after a wile it run quite well.
    It needed to be "charged", that the water flew on the circle from up to down.
    I don't need to change O2 sensor parameter, I don't need to cheat the electronic, I just separate the O from the HHO.
    With 3 cells I had 27% better mileage.
    One cell is build this way:
    NN+NN, the next one NN-NN.
    With 3 cells, I needed 4,2 liter of water, the flow was quite fast and the temp. low all the time.
    I had 45'C after 700km non stop running. (9 hours).
    With 6 cells, I'm trying to put in an AMP. regulator couple with the RPM of the Jeep, Higher the RPM is more AMP. it will be.

    As soon as I will finish this, I will make a picture.
    Attached Images

  5. #45
    coffeeachiever Guest

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    Stephane,
    The question had been posed before if seperating the gasses would nullify the need for an efie. No one knew for sure, but I had speculated that it would not because the fuel would burn more completely and still provide cleaner emissions. I had thought the cleaner emissions would trigger the ecu to dump more fuel. The results you say you are getting means I was quite wrong.
    Russ, here's where your experiment with magnets for electrodes becomes very interesting. Here is a great way to separate the gasses and really test this. Even if the magnets degrade in preliminary testing, this could be a step forward in getting around that damned computer.

  6. #46

    Default

    I've found out that the ECU take in account not fuel but O2.
    If in the exaust manifold there is too much O2, the computer is giving more gas to "burn" it.
    When I separate O from HO, the "free" O is a lot less than it should be
    Because the HO take some O needed by the gasoline, so the lambda check (in catalizator) ask the computer to give less gasoline (it cannot give more air ).
    In fact, I'm running on a poor mix. Just as I would have with an EFI but well controlled by the computer that try to "save" the valves.
    I will see if my theories are good in a couple of month...

    Anyway you are not able to control this as well when you are using an EFI, changing the O2 sensor impuls give the same but without "fluent" control on every RPM range.

  7. Default

    I always error on the side of negative plates. If I have room for an odd number of plates for example; -+-+- will be my config. I used to run with -N+N-N+N-, or two neutrals in between my connected plates. I prefer open bath designs for simplicity and the neutrals would cause me production issues. I could watch the water flow (current flow) bypass the neutrals in the bath and less HHO was the result. I used colored electrolyte and a glass container to watch what was going on. Also, ohms law comes into play when you're dividing up the current with series/parallel (using neutrals) cell designs. If series cells are your preference, simple dry cells are +NNNNN- the way to go. No leakage current around the plates. I've built series cells and PWM's and officially prefer brute force.

    The -+-+-+-, w/ neg plates always on the outside, is my current favorite.

    ps. I'm not selling or endorsing anything, just giving alternatives.
    Randohr
    02' Jeep; 18mpg Highway w/o HHO
    23mpg highway w/ HHO.
    Parallel plate water baths, 3vdc, 16A
    Efies(x4), MAP diode, AIT mod, WTS mod.

  8. #48
    RICHARDDOBYNS@HOTMAIL.COM Guest

    Red face

    I am running -nnnn+nnnn- and -nnn+nnn- with both units 1/3 gain in mpg I know for sure running scan gauge

  9. Default wraping plates

    Quote Originally Posted by mytoyotasucks View Post
    u want to wrap the stainless steel CELL that makes the HHO

    here's a pic of what the current does if u do not wrap a cell

    That is why u want to wrap with something like liquid electrical tape, or something that blocks current.



    so would u only wrap the - and or + and leave the n unwraped
    ________
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    Last edited by chitown1234; 08-28-2011 at 07:50 AM.

  10. #50
    Stealth_NT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by resago View Post
    what about using U shaped neutrals like smith did. requires a larger enclosure, but he doesn't have heat issues.

    +UUUUU-

    could also just metal spacers between every other N.

    +HHHHH-

    or double

    -UUUUU+UUUUU-
    -HHHHH+HHHHH-

    anyone know what the minimum large spacing is between neutrals?
    I know the small spacing is around 2mm. smith is using 1" on the large space, but would 1/2" work just as well?

    Someone have a picture or draw of this U shaped cells? because I dont get it.

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