Page 7 of 9 FirstFirst ... 56789 LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 87

Thread: Which is the best plate configuration

  1. #61
    perakojot Guest
    I am going to try with this configuration +NN-NN+NN-

    Does enybody try this combination?

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    S.E.Ga. coast
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by perakojot View Post
    I am going to try with this configuration +NN-NN+NN-

    Does enybody try this combination?
    Go back and read all the posts in this thread. Then you will understand why thats too many volts per plate. Too much power wasted on heat.

  3. #63
    perakojot Guest
    So, what is then the best plate configuration, lowest loses and best production??

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by perakojot View Post
    So, what is then the best plate configuration, lowest loses and best production??
    This question really depends on what voltage you plan to hook up to the HHO generator.

    To determine plate gap voltage use the following:

    Number of plates in a stack minus one = the number of plate gaps
    Voltage applied to the stack divided by Number of plate gaps = voltage per plate gap

    A stack is defined as a set of one anode plate, one cathode plate and any neutral plates in between. eg. +|||- or +|||||- you can string multiple stacks together like +|||||-|||||+|||||- This will give you more surface area much like using larger plates would. The idea being that more surface area allows for more gas to be produced.

    For the best balance of HHO production and heat, you want your voltage per plate gap to be in the range of 2 - 2.4 volts. Since on most vehicles the alternator puts out 13.5 volts, you would want 5 neutrals or +|||||- in a stack. This will give you 2.25 volts per plate gap.

    If your vehicle is one of those that uses a 24v charging system then you would want ten neutrals. +||||||||||-
    --
    Some days I get the sinking feeling that Orwell was an optimist!

  5. #65
    perakojot Guest
    Look what plumabob postet on this link.
    He put +NNNNNNNN- and said that is a winer.
    First he said that is +-+-+-+-+- but later he corect himself on +NNNNNNNN- .
    I intend to instal HHO on MAZDA 626.

    http://www.hhoforums.com/archive/index.php/t-254.html

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by perakojot View Post
    Look what plumabob postet on this link.
    He put +NNNNNNNN- and said that is a winer.
    Wirs he said that is +-+-+-+-+- but later he corect himself on +NNNNNNNN- .
    I intend to instal HHO on MAZDA 626.

    http://www.hhoforums.com/archive/index.php/t-254.html
    plumabob's design is more than a year old and we have learned a lot since then. If you will notice in the link you provided, nowhere does he ever talk about MMW efficiency. This was something that the community started doing a couple of months after he came out with his design. A good dry cell design (sometimes referred to as a terro cell) will outperform plumabob's design everytime. Another good thing about the dry cell is that if you want to change from 4 neutrals to 5 or 6 you can quickly and easily do so. Makes testing much nicer. Don't get me wrong, plumabob and Smith03Jetta where huge contributors to the HHO world. But as a community we have moved on to better ideas.
    --
    Some days I get the sinking feeling that Orwell was an optimist!

  7. #67
    perakojot Guest
    OK, thanks veery much. I wil try combination that you told me. Since my mazda is on 12V I will use +|||||-
    One more question, I hope , can I use the victor design and make it like this on link just vith no C plate, with N, and must he be in line on common bolt or it can be like the victor design on common lower bolt and separate uper bolt?

    http://www.myonlinead.biz/VICTOR_Assembly.html

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by perakojot View Post
    OK, thanks veery much. I wil try combination that you told me. Since my mazda is on 12V I will use +|||||-
    One more question, I hope , can I use the victor design and make it like this on link just vith no C plate, with N, and must he be in line on common bolt or it can be like the victor design on common lower bolt and separate uper bolt?

    http://www.myonlinead.biz/VICTOR_Assembly.html
    Wow... I would put that into the 'Lets make up stuff to sound impressive' category

    Class I, Class II and Class III plate designs??? WTF? Makes absolutely no sense. And what the heck is a C plate? I notice that they only compare it to the W4G mason jar design. (known for being a POS). There are good open bath designs, but this isn't one of them.

    If you want to follow a proven design go with http://www.energybuildersnetwork.com/ or copy boytonstu's design http://www.hhoforums.com/showthread....ht=amoeba+cell You will be much happier in the end.
    --
    Some days I get the sinking feeling that Orwell was an optimist!

  9. #69
    perakojot Guest
    Thanks budy, you are savior.
    I make ma HHO generator but production is not impresive. I dont use PWM. Because I am busy, I am going to instal them tomorow.
    I let you know how it works.
    Thanks!

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    20
    Has anyone tried a stan meyers style cell, with stainless steel tubing? It seems a lot less restrictive in terms of electrolyte delivery than a dry cell. Also heat and foaming seem to be not as serious an issue.

    i aquired a 20 foot length 1 1/2 inch outer diameter of 316L Stainless steel seemless tubing. I didnt think at the time about the inside Negative pipes, now am thinking of other ways to do it.

    let me know what you think. Id love some ideas.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •