I am impressed by this

**Painless** · 09-07-2008, 09:54 PM

Looking closer at and pausing the video on that ebay auction, it looks like his config is as follows:

-NNNN+NNNN-

I find this especially interesting as so far, when experimenting with this kind of setup, I have placed the negative pole in the middle and the positive on the outside, vice versa to this.

My configuration is thus:

+NNNN-NNNN+

After conditioning and magnetic aligning (I already cross scored the plate surfaces today) I'm definitely going to try a polarity switch just out of pure curiosity. My thinking behind negative in the middle was that current would flow from the center outward, which would present less avenues for current loss in an open bath (voltage entering at the end plates would offer the opportunity for voltage to head off into the electrolyte instead of into the cell pack), although that clearly would not matter with a dry cell.

As for plate gauge, I'm not really sure what he's using there. My plates are Lowes switch plate covers (304SS). I'm trying to keep everything in my design simple in terms of sourcing and working on, mainly because I don't have the facilities (or health) for any serious metal cutting / drilling etc. A plus side of this is that my design should be easily reproducible, if it proves successful.

My design basically goes, from right to left:

Aluminum end
Plexiglas
Rubber insulator
+ Plate
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
- Plate
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
+ Plate
Rubber Insulator
Aluminum End

I've utilized the existing holes in the switch plates for the electrolyte flow. Electrolyte will enter at the bottom holes and exit at the top. On each + Plate one of the holes is sealed shut by the rubber insulator. My theory is that the exit pipe will also carry the HHO.

I haven't mounted the lowes hose fittings yet, I'm planning on threading these through an existing hole in the end plates, through a hole in the plexiglas, feeding/receiving fluid from a channel cut into the rubber insulator leading to the respective top or bottom hole. I'm going to need to shorten the threaded end of the hose fittings and will need some sort of adhesive, I'm unsure what yet, to affix and seal them to the plexiglas.

It's lots of fun! I have my customary two days off Monday and Tuesday and am shooting to have this conditioned and installed by Wednesday afternoon. I'm going to use the floor box bubbler that I found at home depot as a resorvoir for now and source a new bubbler.

countryboy18 · 09-07-2008, 10:08 PM

i think he had the - on the outside so he dosent have to worry about insulating the 2 end plates from the car. just my 2 cents

wljohns · 09-07-2008, 10:09 PM

Well thats it I have to build one. I think I have found my favorite design thus far.
That one is REALLY impressive. But what to use for gasket? What would the pvc seal be commercially sold as in a small town?

**BoyntonStu** · 09-07-2008, 10:18 PM

Originally Posted by chevytruckman1234

Is this Dry cell better than a wet cell stating to build a wet one and was wondering if I was going the wrong way?

I suggest that you start wet to learn the ropes.

After gaining some experience you may want to go to a more efficient dry cell.

View the dry cell video and see if you are interested and capable of doing it.

BoyntonStu

**BoyntonStu** · 09-07-2008, 10:21 PM

Originally Posted by wljohns

Well thats it I have to build one. I think I have found my favorite design thus far.
That one is REALLY impressive. But what to use for gasket? What would the pvc seal be commercially sold as in a small town?

Go to Lowes or HD and buy a piece of shower stall lining.

$5 a foot.

It works great to seal the BoyntonPot.

c02cutter · 09-07-2008, 10:34 PM

It is a simple approach to a flooded design. With no regard to the average "joe" installing it. Open plates to possible road crap is so damn wrong. Selling a cell with no regard to installation is so wrong. I have a lot of experience with this type of cell as it is not new. It works! It is nothing but a tero cell revision. $199.00 for what they offer is a rip off. # 1 the plates are not large enough to facilitate true HHO production for the surface area involved (guy holding in video) to do the proper voltage drop in the cell from + to -. There is gasket material involved that is taking away from the production involved. # 2 is they are selling something for the amount of money involved with out addressing any issue with the on board computer electronics involved. I guarantee they had the same problems involved to make it work that way that we all have with all our cells. It is completely miss represented, and I personally will wait to see if they survive the onslaught of how they represent what they are offering. They claim no tank... it takes a tank to supply a flow. The video on bench shows the supply pop bottle. It requires this to run, other wise you wind up with a cell that is a disaster in seconds to run. Concept involved is a known good cell, represented in this auction is wrong in more than I describe. I have this type on the bench running, but so much safer in design. Just simply think about what is being shown, and accident waiting to happen. Look up the Tero cell pdf which operates on the same principle, but needs improvement from the pdf file. If I am wrong, prove me so, I invite it!

**BoyntonStu** · 09-07-2008, 10:37 PM

Originally Posted by Painless

Looking closer at and pausing the video on that ebay auction, it looks like his config is as follows:

-NNNN+NNNN-

I find this especially interesting as so far, when experimenting with this kind of setup, I have placed the negative pole in the middle and the positive on the outside, vice versa to this.

My configuration is thus:

+NNNN-NNNN+

After conditioning and magnetic aligning (I already cross scored the plate surfaces today) I'm definitely going to try a polarity switch just out of pure curiosity. My thinking behind negative in the middle was that current would flow from the center outward, which would present less avenues for current loss in an open bath (voltage entering at the end plates would offer the opportunity for voltage to head off into the electrolyte instead of into the cell pack), although that clearly would not matter with a dry cell.

As for plate gauge, I'm not really sure what he's using there. My plates are Lowes switch plate covers (304SS). I'm trying to keep everything in my design simple in terms of sourcing and working on, mainly because I don't have the facilities (or health) for any serious metal cutting / drilling etc. A plus side of this is that my design should be easily reproducible, if it proves successful.

My design basically goes, from right to left:

Aluminum end
Plexiglas
Rubber insulator
+ Plate
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
- Plate
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
Neutral
Gasket
+ Plate
Rubber Insulator
Aluminum End

I've utilized the existing holes in the switch plates for the electrolyte flow. Electrolyte will enter at the bottom holes and exit at the top. On each + Plate one of the holes is sealed shut by the rubber insulator. My theory is that the exit pipe will also carry the HHO.

I haven't mounted the lowes hose fittings yet, I'm planning on threading these through an existing hole in the end plates, through a hole in the plexiglas, feeding/receiving fluid from a channel cut into the rubber insulator leading to the respective top or bottom hole. I'm going to need to shorten the threaded end of the hose fittings and will need some sort of adhesive, I'm unsure what yet, to affix and seal them to the plexiglas.

It's lots of fun! I have my customary two days off Monday and Tuesday and am shooting to have this conditioned and installed by Wednesday afternoon. I'm going to use the floor box bubbler that I found at home depot as a resorvoir for now and source a new bubbler.

Great post!

Thanks for sharing.

" My theory is that the exit pipe will also carry the HHO."

I dunno. The Terro cell has an outlet at the top above the electrolyte level.

With a pump I think that it will work.

Without a pump, with thermal siphon. I dunno.

If you want to maximize area, tilt the plates/cell about 45* and place an outlet hole near the corner apex.

Aluminum end
Plexiglas

Aluminum to strengthen the Plexiglas against bending?

I use PVC gasket material sold as shower stall lining at Lowes and HD.

You are using rubber. What/where?

+NNNN-NNNN+ I believe that you can add another 'U' or 2 'U's on each side with a very efficient design like this one..

I would try a single setup first before paralleling the second.

The BoyntonPot has been running with 5 cells at 9.5 Volts for the last 6 hours to condition the plates. It will run a few days this way.

Why run 2.5 Volts when less than 2 will do it?

I would opt to put + in the center where the hydrogen is produced and

- to the outside which is chassis ground anyways.

Keep up the good work.

BoyntonStu

**Q-Hack!** · 09-07-2008, 10:43 PM

I too, am a little leery of this add. You notice how in video, the vehicle test was done at night and you never see the road? What is to say they didn't wait until a down hill slope to turn on the cell? People on youtube are really bad about posting videos as "proof" and yet they miss the mark by incredible amounts.

**Painless** · 09-07-2008, 11:06 PM