Steve make sure you ordered the right ones for the volume of your reactor(s). They have the cfm listed. 1 cfm = 28.32 Liters per minute. You will really like these babies!!
Steve make sure you ordered the right ones for the volume of your reactor(s). They have the cfm listed. 1 cfm = 28.32 Liters per minute. You will really like these babies!!
Your welcome Steve any time Carter
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."
ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .
Seems to be a soluce since white vinegar is in fact ascetic acid that "kills" electrolytes vapors. I recommand to use it in a double bubbler.
#1 tube allow condensation deposit
#2 tube eliminates electrolytes tracks
You need to connect tubes to each other like shown below with 2 diving tubes, it allow vinegar to flow back to # tube1 when you stop your engine, because of the HHO cooling and "retracting" in the tank thus creating vacuum.
When you start again the vinegar is pulled to #2.
You also need to flush & replace vinegar regularly because it mixes with condensation overtime, and loose efficiency.
That's it.... I hope you can understand my explanations because my mother language is not english !
That beeing said, the only question is to know if vinegar eliminates 100% of eletrolytes tracks....
Great design Sir. It helps solve the problem of the reactor getting flooded with your vinegar and cleans some of the harmful electrolyte out of the gas. In fact it does not clean all the electrolyte out. The bubbles, especially if they are big will hold some inside the bubble which does not touch the vinegar. The amount left might be acceptable but might be less if the bubbles were smaller using diffusers. The trick is to get inside the bubbles or use a filter/dryer of some kind. I have one concern and that is the amount of HHO is in the system at any given time. In a major accident where fire is involved one would not want to have any quantity of HHO in any container. Use it up as it is made and have very little in the system, just small amounts in the top of a bubbler still makes a pretty big bang, larger amounts could be serious. Just some food for thought
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."
ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .
My first post here. Mech Engineer fron Australia now retired here in the Philippines and thinking of fitting a Dry cell to my diesel Isuzu.
If your vehicle is fitted with an airconditioner the solution is simple. Route the outlet tube along the aircon delivery tube so as to cool the gas and any water vapour contained in the HHO would condense because it is being cooled and seperate from the gas. Then be an easy matter to collect and drain the problem.
Regards Leon...
Hi I'm new to the the forum but I would put my two cence out there. This is what I have done and seems to work for me. I have a small pill bottle lid with a hole in the center glued to the top of my wet cell then filled the pill bottle with ss steal wool loosely with green scrub pad at the top and screwed it into the lid. I have drilled lots of small holes in the pill bottle, so the gas has to go throw the ss wool then the scrub pad before leaving the unit. The moisture seems to get caught and drip back down into the cell. I have done the same idea to my bubbler as well. I have also added a in line desiccant dryer after the bubbler, it is a dryer that a lot of custom auto painters use it has cilica gel beads in it that change from blue to clear when they need to be changed. I also have a 1/2 " clear tube filled with reg steel wool and aluminum fine mesh to keep a close eye on it to see if it works and so far the steel wool and aluminum are clean. I hope this helps or at least sparks some better ideas.