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Thread: Warning, Warning... Please read...

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    The material you use has to be water proof and non restrictive to air flow when wet. So Gortex (restrictive) fiber glass (Not really water proof) might not work to well. The carbon filter would be GREAT until it got completely wet.

    I think whatever you make it needs to be able to drain off. I’m thinking something the water can condensate onto then as it collects at the bottom, it be drained off.

    Air compressors have air dryers/water separators, for catching moisture. Heres a real cheep one. They might be too restrictive also. But for $4 it may be wroth a try. Maybe run 2 in parallel to minimize any back pressure.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43764

  2. #32
    Westcoastrocks Guest

    Water vapor

    Quick question. I am confused about the difference between water vapor and the lye. It seems that you guys are worried about lye getting in the engine with good reason. But as far as the water vapor goes...does that really matter? As hot as engines run they should vaporize the water and send it out the tail pipe. I have stopped running my HHO gen for a while now but when I had it on I always switched it off 30 sec before I kill my engine so that if there were any water it should cook it out.

    So do we still need to worry about the water vapor or did I read this post wrong and we are only concerned with the lye (or whatever you use) tearing up your engine parts

  3. #33
    Jaxom Guest
    The problem with those cheap moisture seperators is that they use the velocity of the airflow to seperate the moisture. Basically they direct the airflow outward toward the canister walls, and when the moisture impacts the canister wall it sticks and runs down to the bottom. They're not very effective, I can tell you from experience. The bigger ones that mount at the compressor use a spiral airflow to seperate the moisture via centrifugal force...this is more effective but I fear our gennys don't push enough flow rate for it to work.

  4. #34
    Jaxom Guest
    WestCoast.....The water vapor is not just water...it's really electrolyte vapor and therefore contains a small amount of lye.

  5. #35
    hygear Guest
    Luck has it I caught the problem when I first installed my cell.I noticed my cell burping out electrolyte now and then,and was concerned with KOH entering the intake.My solution was adding on a steamtrap/bubbler after the cell with a sight gauge and also installed a plastic pet cock valve I got a lawnmower shop.I routed that back to the gravity feed resivoir to be recycled.I leave the valve slightly cracked open to let it constantly drain,being as my resivoir is sealed I don't lose any gas prodction this way.I still have my second bubbler in place and it has 5' of tubing coming from the first bubbler which is mounted behind the bumper along with resivoir and generator.I've checked the water in the second bubbler and have found no presence of KOH to date,also no fluid in the tube coming from the first bubbler to the next.I'm fairly confident that no electrolyte can reach my intake with set up.

    Hope this helps out

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roland Jacques View Post
    . The carbon filter would be GREAT until it got completely wet.

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    thinking some more Activated Carbon is used to remove some gases from breathing air. So it Might actualy remove Or recombine H2 and O2. not sure.

  7. #37
    Westcoastrocks Guest
    I am testing my HHo Gen right now. I taped aluminum foil around the end of my output. I am going to let it run for a while and see if it starts corroding the foil. If I can see corrosion then I will know this is a decent way to test for corrosion and I can now put in all of my safety measures and test it with them installed. Hopefully by that time there will be no corrosion.

  8. #38
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoastrocks View Post
    I am testing my HHo Gen right now. I taped aluminum foil around the end of my output. I am going to let it run for a while and see if it starts corroding the foil. If I can see corrosion then I will know this is a decent way to test for corrosion and I can now put in all of my safety measures and test it with them installed. Hopefully by that time there will be no corrosion.
    I believe aluminum foil is pure aluminum. Pure aluminum does not easily oxidize. They use pure aluminum for protective coating on aluminum alloys (Alclad) to prevent corrosion. But I like the experiment maybe try alumium alloy or
    Magnesium corrodeds very easily. It would proably take many weeks before you saw any corrsion in any case
    .

  9. #39
    precaster1@msn.com Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by countryboy18 View Post
    so your saying just fill a tube with lye and pass the gas through it and whats it. wow then you are making a second batch a electrolyte in the tube.
    No i didn't say that, you mentioned water absorbent and some are made of lye, for rv's and stuff. I'm thinking maybe running the gas through a big chamber with lye in the bottom to suck water out. It was your idea. remember?

  10. #40
    Smith03Jetta Guest
    Does anybody have an old Aluminum engine part laying around. Carb, Throttle body, Stuff like that... That's what you need to bench test with.

    I'm going to post some photos. The first two photos are a normal throttle body with about 60,000 miles on it that needs a good cleaning. The third photo is of a 60,000 mile throttle body after it has been cleaned. THIS IS NOT MY CAR...

    The post following this one will show photos of mine after it has been cleaned. I was so upset I forgot to take photos of mine when it was dirty but I did take some photos of the sediment in my Plastic Plenum. I also took some photos of mine after it was cleaned to show just how bad the corrosion is.

    I hope this helps...

    Remember the first photos are of a normal throttle body. This is not from my car...

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