oh, one more thing... I do believe that HOD = Hydrogen On Demand... in other words, his hho generator...
oh, one more thing... I do believe that HOD = Hydrogen On Demand... in other words, his hho generator...
this is what I could make out, but he talks about a smack booster and HOD separately... I think he switched units somewhere in there...Originally Posted by Roland Jacques
Please excuse my bad manners and rantings.
I seem to be taking hits from every were at the moment. and Trying to
defend something that I was trying to share in good faith.
It sure don't pay to put your head up does it.
AH WELL there you go.!!!
This shot was still to large to up load . I just managed to shrink it so would.
I started with 2 Hi impact acrylic wine glasses from the local super market.
That cost about 8 Bucks. Next I cet through / across the bottom of the
glass so there was a small hole in the base from the way it was moulded.
Then under the drill press , and using a high speed hole saw at LOW speed I
cut a plug out to suet the tube I had decided to try first. The small hole that was already there helps to keep the saw centred.
When you are cutting this stuff it will get hot and try to re glue itself together and I found that I had to lift the saw from time to time to let the job cool down.
When you finally get through it will look a mess , But it cleans up with a round file and some sand paper OK .
The s/s tube is 1 1/4" OD and about 3/4"long. Next..... drill a 1/8" hole
all the way through both sides of the ring in approximately the center of
the 3/4" side . Now use a 1/4" drill to enlarge one hole only for the hho feeder tube to go through. I used a 1/4" ridged plastic tube that they use for drip feeders in watering systems for this. But use what ever you have at hand. cut this 1/4" to about 4" long and drill a 1/8" hole all the way through it 1/2" from one end and remove all traces of tailing's with a sharp knife.
Now insert this tube into the 1/4 " hole you drilled in the ring. It should be a very snug fit. Push it all the way to the opposite wall of the ring and center it over the 1/8" hole. now take a SHORT self taper screw and
drive it through the opposite wall of the ring so it goes into the shaft of the 1/4" tube. Make sure you can still see through the 1/8" hole you drilled in this 1/4" tube.
Now rotate the smaller tube until you CAN NOT see the holes.
For a venturi to work properly the air flow through the venturi must be at 90% to the smaller holes in the tube. So if you can look through the small holes when you look through the Ring then you must rotate the smaller tube so you have one on ether side of it.
I used epoxy glue to set the glasses into the s/s ring and cut them of
to an overall length of 5 1/2" . but you can cut them to suet your situation.
Now I am NOT saying that that this 1 1/4 s/s the is the perfect diameter for all cars . You may have to go down to 1" ..... or 3/4" ...... or even 1/2" to get the results you want , we started very conservatively at first
with a view to going smaller in the future.
Senior Member
Bill,
Thanks for sharing and for you clear explanation and photos.
Please explain how did you mount your venturi into your vehicle.
Wonderful work!
Warmest regards,
BoyntonStu
hey Bill,
How's it going today?
I am curious, what elevation are you at? I ask because I've started making some calculations with regard to your ideas, and I see a problem when the vehicle is a MAP-based (Manifold Absolute Pressure) engine... I assume your chevy is MAF (Mass Air Flow)... are you placing the venturi between the MAF and throttle body?
I ask, because some of my quick calculations suggest that the air pressure in the manifold will be much lower than the ECU (Engine Control Unit) expects. basically the ECU will be using the MAP to look up the proper fuel table and will be looking at an altitude much higher than the car is truly at (higher altitude, thinner/less air). now the real trick is whether the ECU will be ok, or if it will start throwing OBD (On Board Diagnostics) codes and lighting up the CEL (Check Engine Light).
for example, my altitude is 300 ft... my car with this setup may be looking at the fuel table for 2000 ft... so if I got into the mountains and go to 10k ft (my favorite hunting spot), then my ECU may be looking at a fuel table for 12-13000 ft... or does it have a fuel table that goes that high?? if there is a reduction of air equivalent to 70%, my numbers are on a very low side... I will crunch some more numbers...
this may no work for all vehicles... unless I missed something...
if your vehicle is MAF, excuse my rambling... I'm thinking out loud to see if anyone has an idea with regard to MAP-based systems...
Senior Member
Yeah I know those were a lot of questions. So no big deal on any rants. It is just good to know what has been covered and what has not. This way we know where we may want to start at, in conducting any further testing/experiments...
I’m just thinking out loud. This is what I see right now, correct me if im wrong. A few things happen when we restrict the air intake.
1. Basically by restricting air intake you are lowering the compression ratio. (lower VE the compression goes down)
Seems counterproductive (who knows in this circumstance)
2. You MAY be also be creating a major vacuum on the HHO/HOD system (depending on where your HHO intake line is placed in relationship to the restrictor. and whether your HOD system is vented or not)
Not sure, but from what ive read vac/low pressure on HOD does not help production.
3. It should lower the MAP sensor reading (by raising vac) that would be telling the CPU that the air intake has been reduced and to lean out the fuel.
This makes since to me in increasing the MPG. But if this is the only thing that is happening then the EFIE we may be using may not be doing the job we want them to.
4. ??? ...
Hi Red
That first report was from a friend of mine in Canada and he didn't tell me
what his altitude was. ??? sorry.
He placed the restriction before the MAF in his rig. What you say about the map sounds logical but every car that fits a HHO cell seams to suffer the same problem.
The motor sees the extra oxygen and assumes it is air density and tries to
maintain the 14 to 1 ratio for the correct mix.
Now when you think about it , it must think the car is 2,000 or 3,000 ft. below sea level.
Now that doesn't make much sense ether. But then when we put in the air restriction , some part - or the whole thing decides that we are now much higher and reduces the amount of petrol it is providing for that
altitude.
I can only guess what sort of arguments are going on under the hood lol
Just as long as it reduces the amount of fuel to the motor I will be happy
Now if all this is true, and I believe it is , then driving into the mountains
with the restrict in place shouldn't be a problem, AS LONG AS YOU ARE
USING A HHO CELL AS WELL. This should make the car think you are lower than you really are.
But of course I cant try this out as the tallest mountain with a road to the top in Australia is about 4,000 ft. We still have LOTS to find out
you know, I didn't even look at it from the other side of the coin... with too much o2, the car is adding fuel, yes... so that means the table is simply based on the sensor reading and doesn't really care about altitude...
well, hopefully I will have my cell running by the middle of next month... so I can give it a wirl...
Senior Member
Can restricting the air also be retarding timing?
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