ECU thread

[jacobnbr1]

You're going to fry the fuel pump in that van testing it that way. The fuel in the tank is what keeps the pump cool...every time you run the fuel low you overheat the pump. You'd be better off filling it, then drive 100miles and fill again, using the amount of fuel consumed to determine your mileage.

Yes i know...

I was wanting short consistant intervals with the same amount without confusion.

the problem with top-off is you really never know exactly where...

[Jaxom]

I just use the same pump at the same station every time I fill, and run fuel into it until the pump shuts off. My MPG calcs using this method never vary by more than .2mpg (unless I do some towing.)

[candyman55]

Hey guys,
I have been following this thread with much interest. I have an AFR sensor calibrator and have been playing with fuel maps a little. My vehicle is a 2007 Toyota Tundra with a 5.7 liter engine.

It seems that my calibrator can adjust the fuel from very rich to very lean with no check engine lights at all. The calibrator works on manifold pressure be it positive or negitive. And is viewble in realtime on my laptop while I drive.

Tuning for the calibrator can be found here: http://www.splitsec.com/, since the program is already written to interact with the computer it could be a really good place to start.

Since most of our driving is in a very narrow RPM range, except for startup and hard acceleration I think that we would only have to use a very small part of the map. Possibly one would be able to realize the full fuel saving s of HHO and still have Maximun power when needed. (Or am I nuts?)

[hg2]

Anyone else using the Split Second Turbotuner or know anything about them?

[Keith's Garage]

I did a little research on the Split Second devices. I really think this is the way that we should be heading. By using the AFR calibrator, it is basically an efie. Just use it in the same way, and lean out the computer.

[candyman55]

I agree, the main diffrence is that an EFIE is adjustable with one setting across the entire RPM range. The calibrator is adjustable with a diffrent setting for each RPM range.

This is the way it works for me:
I lean my fuel out slightly in the 500 to 1000 RPM range -- Reason: This is the range the trucks runs at startup and idleing.

Increase the setting to lean more in the 1000 to 2000 RPM range where most driving takes place and I will realize the most savings.

Decrease lean out in the 3000 to 4000 RPM Range, and then back to normal over 4000. If I am running over 4000 RPM I am not concerned with saving fuel I'm just wanting to get some where fast.

This is just an example of some the things possible, Map B on my calibrator is a timing MAP. I am not to sure what all is going on with it but sooner or later I'll get to that to.

[Mindcrime13]

there is a device called the predator made by diablospot, is a hanheld tuner, that let you modify the computer, by adjustimg, all the computer control things, there also another one called XCal 2 made by sct , both are great,

[Keith's Garage]

The predator is a decent programmer. The problem is it only works with some domestic OBD2 vehicles. Plus, it really does not allow for much custom tuning. You can use Diablo's tuning software with the Predator, but you should be an experienced tuner if you are going to try this method.