Ideas... Amplifier and Water Vapor Injection

[Stevo]

1. If you put your vaporizer close to something hot, it will actually increase the temperature of the incoming air and have a reverse effect. Although it speeds vaporization, the incoming vapor won't be as cool and won't be able to absorb as much energy during combustion, which is trying to be done.

It's funny. My setup has the radiator hose touching one side of the bottle and the other side is exposed to a constant flow of outside air, so the side where the air is exposed stays cool enough to put your whole hand on and contains so much vapor that you cannot tell there is a sponge in the middle. The other side touching the radiator is hot and you wouldn't want to put your whole hand on it. This side has zero vapor and it's easy to see the sponge. Overall, the temperature of the water vapor still ends up being much less than the temperature of the combustion chamber.

[bigapple]

It's funny. My setup has the radiator hose touching one side of the bottle and the other side is exposed to a constant flow of outside air, so the side where the air is exposed stays cool enough to put your whole hand on and contains so much vapor that you cannot tell there is a sponge in the middle. The other side touching the radiator is hot and you wouldn't want to put your whole hand on it. This side has zero vapor and it's easy to see the sponge. Overall, the temperature of the water vapor still ends up being much less than the temperature of the combustion chamber.

Haha, pretty interesting setup. I'm still working with mine.

I added some isopropyl and I noticed a few things.

1. I don't know if it's my imagination, but it seemed like the engine had a higher initial rev the first time I added it with the alcohol.

2. There are much more bubbles. Bubbles made before were visible, but now even more are visible, to the point that there's a light film on the top while the vaporizer is running.

Adding alcohol is definitely helping so I'm awaiting results. I have yet to see whether isopropyl or acetone is the way to go.

The good thing about both of these is since they are volatile, they evaporate quickly. And since they are cold to the touch, they readily take energy from the outside surroundings to evaporate. So this aids in evaporating the water and helps it stay somewhat cool as it enters the engine. The air is then more dense and cooler and can absorb more of the heat inside the combustion chambers.

After experimenting with this, I will see if running hydroxy through the intake and water/isopropyl through the vacuum port (PCV) will have good effects. In theory, it seems like it will and I hope the outcome is good as well.

[bigapple]

Ok, so my test with Isopropyl continues. There is a good site link that is posted in general discussions named ''info source." I forget who posted it, but the information is extensive and well-tested. The guy is a bit of a liberal so you have to read through the B-S but his facts are substantial.

After reading, he mentions that alcohols slightly lower mpg and that the best fuel additives for slightly increased octane and better efficiency are xylene, toulene, and acetone. He does his tests adding them to the gas tank but I believe I'm going to try it through the vacuum line first, since he says its 3 oz of acetone per 10 gallons of gasoline for optimal efficiency, so I figure it may be close to the same amount going through a vaporizer (obviously some margin of error still exists though).

I'm currently running a small bubbler vaporizer through the vacuum PCV valve into the intake manifold. It seems to function very well and It seems like efficiency may be increased (but I always make that up in my mind). So until I get the gas bill and calculate average miles (200 miles to offset the potential 20% margin of error), I won't be set sticking to one chemical. I'm going purchase bottles of 100% xylene and toulene today and I already have a bottle of acetone. After this test with isopropyl/water vapor, I'm going to test acetone/water vapor at about a 70/30 mixture (that could be altered the the future). I will precede with the other 2 chemicals and see which works best. After that, I'll try all 3 mixed with water and see how it works as well.

EDIT: Another question I forgot to ask; since these chemicals I'm using are volatile, if I let them sit sealed up in a container run to the PCV valve, would these chemicals be able to evaporate and escape? It seems like it would be sealed off to some degree by the engine (valve, piston, and cam positions). If it still tends to evaporate easily, I may have to add a solenoid valve. If anyone knows a cheap place to get one, keep me posted please.

[bigapple]

WOW! Did not expect this at all.

I cut my drive a bit short because I was dying to try acetone but the isopropyl did incredible.

I drove 131 miles on 7.5 gallons which yields 17.5 mpg city, to my old 13.7. I disconnected the battery before hooking up the unit, then hooked up the unit and let the computer do the work. An improvement of almost 4 mpg is so much more than I had expected.

My ingredients were simply 50/50 distilled/isopropyl(70%) and ran this into my vacuum line at the pcv valve. Engine operation was much smoother and idle was improved.

I just started it up with 50/50 distilled/acetone(100%) and the engine didn't seem to like it much but I think it might be too strong of a mixture. If I use maybe a 70/30 distilled/acetone(100%) mix, it might help the engine to handle the vapors. I'll see if operation improves, and if not, I'll refill the tank, use a more diluted mixture, and see what engine operation shows.

So far I'm absolutely fascinated about how much easier this was to do than using hydroxy gas. I give every bit of respect to those that have made it work for their cars, but it was very tough to get it to work for mine. I went ahead and tried a new simple design and the gains were great.

I'll continue trying different chemicals and keep everyone posted!

[Riddler250]

Those are awesome results. I'm ready to try it in mine now

[Painless]

WOW! Did not expect this at all.

I cut my drive a bit short because I was dying to try acetone but the isopropyl did incredible.

I drove 131 miles on 7.5 gallons which yields 17.5 mpg city, to my old 13.7. I disconnected the battery before hooking up the unit, then hooked up the unit and let the computer do the work. An improvement of almost 4 mpg is so much more than I had expected.

My ingredients were simply 50/50 distilled/isopropyl(70%) and ran this into my vacuum line at the pcv valve. Engine operation was much smoother and idle was improved.

I just started it up with 50/50 distilled/acetone(100%) and the engine didn't seem to like it much but I think it might be too strong of a mixture. If I use maybe a 70/30 distilled/acetone(100%) mix, it might help the engine to handle the vapors. I'll see if operation improves, and if not, I'll refill the tank, use a more diluted mixture, and see what engine operation shows.

So far I'm absolutely fascinated about how much easier this was to do than using hydroxy gas. I give every bit of respect to those that have made it work for their cars, but it was very tough to get it to work for mine. I went ahead and tried a new simple design and the gains were great.

I'll continue trying different chemicals and keep everyone posted!

Those are awesome results!! Nice work!

I've been back through the thread, but could you possibly post your exact design for your WVI unit?

[Riddler250]

Did you lean your fuel?

[Stevo]

WOW! Did not expect this at all.

I cut my drive a bit short because I was dying to try acetone but the isopropyl did incredible.

I drove 131 miles on 7.5 gallons which yields 17.5 mpg city, to my old 13.7. I disconnected the battery before hooking up the unit, then hooked up the unit and let the computer do the work. An improvement of almost 4 mpg is so much more than I had expected.

My ingredients were simply 50/50 distilled/isopropyl(70%) and ran this into my vacuum line at the pcv valve. Engine operation was much smoother and idle was improved.

I just started it up with 50/50 distilled/acetone(100%) and the engine didn't seem to like it much but I think it might be too strong of a mixture. If I use maybe a 70/30 distilled/acetone(100%) mix, it might help the engine to handle the vapors. I'll see if operation improves, and if not, I'll refill the tank, use a more diluted mixture, and see what engine operation shows.

So far I'm absolutely fascinated about how much easier this was to do than using hydroxy gas. I give every bit of respect to those that have made it work for their cars, but it was very tough to get it to work for mine. I went ahead and tried a new simple design and the gains were great.

I'll continue trying different chemicals and keep everyone posted!

Yep, I figured you would see some gains with that setup. I believe I will as well here pretty soon. It's gonna be harder to tell (if not void) since I just replaced my spark plugs. Went from Iridium aftermarket to the factory laser cut platinums made specifically for my B18C1 Honda engine. Honda geeks swear by them in NA motors. Anyway, I guess I will post my gains. If I get anything greater than 31 MPG, I will let you all know as I am assuming a possible +4-5 MPG by just using the "magical" factory plugs. Man, those suckers were expensive for platinum plugs.

I attached the pics of my setup, which use a more negative pressure approach with high wicking sponge all hooked into the PCV system for maximum vaccum and vapor in return. Can surely tell a difference on the butt dyno with water vapor even before the plugs... I am using the same 50/50 water/alcohol. We'll see...

[bigapple]

Those are awesome results!! Nice work!

I've been back through the thread, but could you possibly post your exact design for your WVI unit?

Ok, so my design is based on this simple design with some differences.



The differences though are that the "Air intake adjuster" is actually just a valve cover breather, and the water is a mixture of water and isopropyl alcohol (right now its acetone, though). Simply a bubbler stone on the end of the inlet tube with the breather on the top and the outlet is open at the top. I stuffed the inlet after the breather with steel wool though, because when I first started it up, it whistled so loud it almost killed my ears. I was wondering what the best container would be and I came across an old Food Saver storage container. Since it's made to be under vacuum, its very durable and best of all, it isn't made of glass (hate glass under the hood). I made a water catch out of a lid from a food storage container and poked holes along the outside rim to let air in but still block liquid from getting in the line. Here's a view from the top. If you want a view of the whole inside, let me know.

Did you lean your fuel?

No, and I think that would definitely help me. I'm going to try to get an SCT tuner for timing changes and to lean out the mixture. When I started it up with the acetone in the unit, it idled very differently, like it had way too much fuel. I'm very much looking into leaning out the fuel.

[Stevo]

Ok, so my design is based on this simple design with some differences.

Bigapple,

Looks like you have a MAF sensor. I am guessing that since the line is hooked up after the MAF, your computer will detect a vacuum leak as the air from the vaporizer is not being metered. Have you had this trouble yet?
If not, you might eventually. I would say try to find the stock air box and inject it there so that the extra incoming air will be metered. Otherwise, I see check engine light and computer adding more fuel to try and make up for it in the future.