Water Injection Thread

[livehho]

My design requires no opening of the bottles, ever, unless you need to work on something inside. Matter of fact, I need to refill them right now.

Hi Stevo. How many hours of driving does 1 liter of water last in this setup? thanks

[livehho]

I am still pondering what may work better than a hydrophilic sponge while not being too restrictive. Ideas are certainly welcome.

http://www.hhoglabs.com/images/HHOGIIAtomizer2a.jpg

[Stevo]

Hi Stevo. How many hours of driving does 1 liter of water last in this setup? thanks

Hmm.. I haven't really thought about it that way, but here goes.

2 bottles (32 oz ea.) - 20 oz (sump) = 44 oz.

Weekday Daily Mileage: 91
Weekend Daily Mileage: 10
Weekly Total = (91 * 5) + (10 * 2) = 475 miles
------------------------------
Weekday Daily Travel Time: 2.25 hours
Weekend Daily Travel Time .5 hours
Weekly Total = (2.25 * 5) + (.5 * 2) = 12.25 hours


It takes right at about 2 weeks (24.5 hours) of 50/50 highway/city driving to use the 44 oz. of water.

Approx 18 hours of driving

Correct me if I jacked some numbers up as it's not easy to do math with a screaming 1 year old in the background :S

[livehho]

Hmm.. I haven't really thought about it that way, but here goes.

2 bottles (32 oz ea.) - 20 oz (sump) = 44 oz.

Weekday Daily Mileage: 91
Weekend Daily Mileage: 10
Weekly Total = (91 * 5) + (10 * 2) = 475 miles
------------------------------
Weekday Daily Travel Time: 2.25 hours
Weekend Daily Travel Time .5 hours
Weekly Total = (2.25 * 5) + (.5 * 2) = 12.25 hours


It takes right at about 2 weeks (24.5 hours) of 50/50 highway/city driving to use the 44 oz. of water.

Approx 18 hours of driving

Correct me if I jacked some numbers up as it's not easy to do math with a screaming 1 year old in the background :S

So it's aprox 25 hours of vehicle operation, and 18 hours of WVI operation?

That means WVI is ON about 81% of the time of vehicle operation. At how many RPM would you say WVI kicks IN? 1000? 1200?

So:

18h -> 44oz -> 1.3L = it takes 14h to consume 1 liter = 70ml/h = 1.1ml/min

The smallest nozzle currently available in the WI kits for sale on the Internet has a flow rate of 32ml/min

your setup: 1.1ml/min --> 14 hours to consume 1 liter
nozzle setup: 32ml/min --> 40 min to consume 1 liter

and you went from 30 to 40mpg? that just proves the ICE doesn't need a lot of water in order to burn fuel more efficiently, but just a tiny bit. that's very encouraging

[Stevo]

livehho,

I'll accept those numbers. Considering the nature of HHO and how it takes more energy than you receive from burning it, doing a WVI setup is great for 1500 + RPM range that my system works in. No energy needed from the alternator which is good. Trust me, plenty of ppl have asked me if I am for real about the results. I just tell them to try it themselves and see. I'm happy with my hard work the results.

Water Injection (not WVI) and Bilge Blowers on a Naturally Aspirated Engine
__________________________________________________ ________________________________________
Also... on the topic of water pumps and nozzles and all that jazz. Not necessary and entirely too much water if you ask me. Why tame the flame? Plus the systems cost way too much. I mean how the hell do you expect to see considerable MPG gains if you are using extra energy from the alternator. It's elementary and really only useful for turbo/supercharged applications to prevent detonation thus water injection's history. I have the exact same thoughts on the "electric supercharger" a.k.a. marine bilge blowers. They use way too much electricity and return no more than a good front facing cold air intake can. These bilge blowers DO NOT COMPRESS AIR nor are they designed to do so. Even if it does (on a small engine) it's going to be in the range of 1 P.S.I which does exactly jack ****.

That's my .02 from experience.

[Stevo]

So I've been calling it "Water Vapor Injection" and really we aren't injecting anything. We are INDUCTING it along with the normal airflow. So I am correcting myself (yes I do this sometimes) and changing the abbreviation that I have been referring to.

W.V.I. = Water Vapor Induction

Injection would mean that we are using some sort of pump to force water vapor into the intake. The unit I have installed on my Civic is passive, so induction fits perfectly.

Sorry for any confusion. I can open up another thread for this very discussion if necessary as I think the topic is well worth continuing.

[livehho]

So I've been calling it "Water Vapor Injection" and really we aren't injecting anything. We are INDUCTING it along with the normal airflow. So I am correcting myself (yes I do this sometimes) and changing the abbreviation that I have been referring to.

W.V.I. = Water Vapor Induction

Injection would mean that we are using some sort of pump to force water vapor into the intake. The unit I have installed on my Civic is passive, so induction fits perfectly.

Sorry for any confusion. I can open up another thread for this very discussion if necessary as I think the topic is well worth continuing.

are you including HHO into your MPG calculations or just WVI? is that the only mod you have?

[Stevo]

Yes that's the only mod so far. I'm still working on the HHO generator but not sure it will benefit my cause for much more than idle speed. It still might be good to try tho.

[spicerman]

Hey guys...
Just a word of caution. I have been injecting water/steam into my throttle plate.
I was going to work last week and my truck flashed a check engine light and started shifting up and down. The code was for the TPS signal (throttle position sensor)
I checked volts and had 4.98 vdc.
I bought a new sensor ($30) When I pulled the bad sensor off, it was full of condensation droplets.
My throttle plate has a pivot rod that goes across the top of the butterfly. Any water that falls or collects on the front half of the butterfly has to run to the outside edges to drain off ( right above where the pivots go through the throttle body) The water seeps into the TPS.
I put in a longer tube to extend down to the very back edge of the butterfly so all the moisture has to be sucked in.

[Stevo]

Hey guys...
Just a word of caution. I have been injecting water/steam into my throttle plate.
I was going to work last week and my truck flashed a check engine light and started shifting up and down. The code was for the TPS signal (throttle position sensor)
I checked volts and had 4.98 vdc.
I bought a new sensor ($30) When I pulled the bad sensor off, it was full of condensation droplets.
My throttle plate has a pivot rod that goes across the top of the butterfly. Any water that falls or collects on the front half of the butterfly has to run to the outside edges to drain off ( right above where the pivots go through the throttle body) The water seeps into the TPS.
I put in a longer tube to extend down to the very back edge of the butterfly so all the moisture has to be sucked in.

Thanks for mentioning that. I'll know what to expect in case I see similar issues. So far after 6 weeks I have seen zero issues on mine, but all engines are different. There is a very small hole inside of the throttle body at the top just before the throttle body plate on mine. That is where water vapor is inducted. I have avoided steam so far as the heat it tends to carry actually will negate some of the water vapor's effects.