Water Injection Thread

[Stevo]

Just to let everyone know, I am trying 3% hydrogen peroxide and distilled water in the first chamber this week to see what sort of difference the extra 02 will make.

Yesterday, as soon as I added it, I went for a short drive to see about any immediate butt dyno effects.

I must say that the butt dyno really liked it. Means nothing in real numbers, but I would certainly suggest trying it. The main thing I noticed was better lower end power. This could all be in my head too. $2 for 64oz here at Costco in Southlake.

[JCOBERLEY]

Back in the late 70's we used water injecting on a 1 ton ford truck with a 460 gas engine we used a windshield washer box hooked up a vacuum line and used a needle valve to adjust the flow. we tried to run about 1 quart a hour when on the hiway. And the truck ran good and went from 7MPG to 12MPG. The truck had a carb and we put a t in the vacuum line going to the dist.

[spicerman]

Steam is supposed to be the optimum to induce or inject because it is broken down to the smallest particle. Plus it brings in heat that aids in fuel vaporization and "cracks" more easily during combustion.... But that can also depend on how saturated it is. Dry steam is superheated or above its boiling point. Saturated steam would be just above its boiling point, ready to condense. Holding more moisture. My boiler on the manifold is at least 600 Deg. F. That would be very dry. But by the time it reaches the throttle body area its starting to condense and some water droplets are there. I think I need to insulate the steam line better and suck it in with vac.

[Stevo]

Steam is supposed to be the optimum to induce or inject because it is broken down to the smallest particle. Plus it brings in heat that aids in fuel vaporization and "cracks" more easily during combustion.... But that can also depend on how saturated it is. Dry steam is superheated or above its boiling point. Saturated steam would be just above its boiling point, ready to condense. Holding more moisture. My boiler on the manifold is at least 600 Deg. F. That would be very dry. But by the time it reaches the throttle body area its starting to condense and some water droplets are there. I think I need to insulate the steam line better and suck it in with vac.

Yeh I've read something similar to that. I have always been told that an advantage of the vapor is it's capability to absorb heat and higher temp vapor absorbs less, but I have also been pondering an enhancement.

Maybe I will find a way to utilize the wasted heat from the radiator in order to aid vaporization thus producing *some* steam. This scares me too as I do not want too much water as hydro-lock becomes more and more imminent. I think simply beginning the enhancement by extending a hose from the coolant system to wrap around one of the reservoirs might work. The bottles can easily handle dishwasher temperatures (higher temp of 275 degrees). My cooling system ranges from 160-200 degrees once warm. This might work.

Other ideas?

[Helz_McFugly]

Im about to run a tank of gas without HHO. that means all Ill have going is WVI and the Volo FS2. Ill report back after my next fillup.

[Roland Jacques]

Steam is supposed to be the optimum to induce or inject because it is broken down to the smallest particle. Plus it brings in heat that aids in fuel vaporization and "cracks" more easily during combustion.... But that can also depend on how saturated it is. Dry steam is superheated or above its boiling point. Saturated steam would be just above its boiling point, ready to condense. Holding more moisture. My boiler on the manifold is at least 600 Deg. F. That would be very dry. But by the time it reaches the throttle body area its starting to condense and some water droplets are there. I think I need to insulate the steam line better and suck it in with vac.

What are you thinking of using to insulate your delivery lines with? What do you think about Exhaust Header Wrap?

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/A...ion_118509.htm

[Stevo]

Roland,

Silicone hose would work well most likely. You can get it from McMaster or most race shops. I would just need some sort of heating element that will fit around the bottle. Preferably made of aluminum or copper. Something like that. I don't know exactly what I'll use. I'll come up w/ something.

[spicerman]

Stevo...Thanks for the link to the headerwrap. I seen that at our local Oriley's auto store. It got me thinkin But I used fiberglass and wrapped it with aluminum foil instead.

Hey.. remember that it takes less BTU's to boil water thats under vacuum. so you might be making steam before you realize it.

The water inj. manual I have says that 10% water to fuel is the jumping off point. When I played with the numbers you gave about the amount of water being inducted into your engine, I think it about 5%. If you heated the water and the air being sucked through it, you would increase the water being delivered. air is like a sponge, the hotter it is the more water it can hold. I think it would be easier to run your inlet air tubing along a heater hose or the engine coolant hose, then into the WVI canister and the air would then heat the water... What say you???

Even with the .75 to 1 oz/PMin. that I am injecting, my exhaust temps. don't change. But on the rainy days.... I see an increase. So ..... How much water does the rainy air hold at 100% saturation?? I think that would be the "right" amount.

[Stevo]

Stevo...Thanks for the link to the headerwrap. I seen that at our local Oriley's auto store. It got me thinkin But I used fiberglass and wrapped it with aluminum foil instead.

Hey.. remember that it takes less BTU's to boil water thats under vacuum. so you might be making steam before you realize it.

The water inj. manual I have says that 10% water to fuel is the jumping off point. When I played with the numbers you gave about the amount of water being inducted into your engine, I think it about 5%. If you heated the water and the air being sucked through it, you would increase the water being delivered. air is like a sponge, the hotter it is the more water it can hold. I think it would be easier to run your inlet air tubing along a heater hose or the engine coolant hose, then into the WVI canister and the air would then heat the water... What say you???

Even with the .75 to 1 oz/PMin. that I am injecting, my exhaust temps. don't change. But on the rainy days.... I see an increase. So ..... How much water does the rainy air hold at 100% saturation?? I think that would be the "right" amount.

Yeh that might be the right amount. Honestly, I've been rather complacent as I still get 37 MPG on a bumper to bumper bad day in Dallas traffic. I haven't felt like making many changes so far except adding H202, which made no difference at all. I'm moving soon so I've been having to pack and all that stuff eats up my extra weekend time.

I would really like to create a better air distributor for the tanks. Maybe I will work on that.

[Roland Jacques]

Roland,

Silicone hose would work well most likely. You can get it from McMaster or most race shops. I would just need some sort of heating element that will fit around the bottle. Preferably made of aluminum or copper. Something like that. I don't know exactly what I'll use. I'll come up w/ something.

I'm looking at a very high temp application, with the ability to keep the steam injecting temp at 600F at the manifold. (I'm experimenting with different temps) So i need to get it hot, and the ability to keep it hot, so Copper or SS tubing with exhaust wrap is what I'm thinking.