Water Injection Thread

[Roland Jacques]

Stevo...Thanks for the link to the headerwrap. I seen that at our local Oriley's auto store. It got me thinkin But I used fiberglass and wrapped it with aluminum foil instead.

Hey.. remember that it takes less BTU's to boil water thats under vacuum. so you might be making steam before you realize it.

The water inj. manual I have says that 10% water to fuel is the jumping off point. When I played with the numbers you gave about the amount of water being inducted into your engine, I think it about 5%. If you heated the water and the air being sucked through it, you would increase the water being delivered. air is like a sponge, the hotter it is the more water it can hold. I think it would be easier to run your inlet air tubing along a heater hose or the engine coolant hose, then into the WVI canister and the air would then heat the water... What say you???

Even with the .. that I am injecting, my exhaust temps. don't change. But on the rainy days.... I see an increase. So ..... How much water does the rainy air hold at 100% saturation?? I think that would be the "right" amount.

What size engine is this on?

You would think 0.75 to 1 oz/P Min (1-2 litters per hour) would see exhaust temp going down.

With My 5.7 liter I want the ability to deliver 20 LPH at 600 degrees. That's the goal anyway, my thought is it easier reduce ether than increase ether.

Ive heard 50% to 100% of fuel ratio of water for some to really get great gains.

My plan is jacket water (coolant) to heat the water/steam heat exchanger. Have very hot air going into the heat exchanger, that will come from copper coiled around Catalytic converter. Then the output steam will go through tubing over the exhaust manifold, then to intake manifold. Still not sure how to regulate variable delivery to keep the water under 100% (by fuel ratio)

PS you can find that Exhaust Warp much cheaper on eBay especially if you can use the 2" stuff.

[livehho]

There is a very small hole inside of the throttle body at the top just before the throttle body plate on mine. That is where water vapor is inducted.

did you tee into an existing vacuum line or you drilled the hole exclusively for the WVI line?

[livehho]

Roland,

I would just need some sort of heating element that will fit around the bottle. Preferably made of aluminum or copper. Something like that. I don't know exactly what I'll use. I'll come up w/ something.

copper bends so easily

[livehho]

What size engine is this on?

You would think 0.75 to 1 oz/P Min (1-2 litters per hour) would see exhaust temp going down.

With My 5.7 liter I want the ability to deliver 20 LPH at 600 degrees. That's the goal anyway, my thought is it easier reduce ether than increase ether.

Ive heard 50% to 100% of fuel ratio of water for some to really get great gains.

My plan is jacket water (coolant) to heat the water/steam heat exchanger. Have very hot air going into the heat exchanger, that will come from copper coiled around Catalytic converter. Then the output steam will go through tubing over the exhaust manifold, then to intake manifold. Still not sure how to regulate variable delivery to keep the water under 100% (by fuel ratio)

PS you can find that Exhaust Warp much cheaper on eBay especially if you can use the 2" stuff.

for a 1-2 LPH setup you would have to install at least a 7 gallon reservoir ( http://fluids.flambeau.com/multipurp....0_gallon.html) somewhere in the back of your truck and refill it two times a week or so...

for a 20 LPH setup... that's 5.2 gallons an hour.. you would need a much bigger reservoir.. maybe one of these? http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/var...ariant_id=8972

I guess it would be difficult to hydrolock a 5.7L engine

it would be great to see a diagram of your idea

[livehho]

No Im still getting 0 to 60 in like 8 seconds. I did lose HP at first. I started at 1" the 1 1/4" then 1 3/8" still havgin a little lag then I opened it up to 1.5" after that you cant even tell its in there. back to old it old 0 to 60 in 8 or 9 seconds. it starts bubbling at 1500 RPMs when driving under load. I started at 19MPG from the factory. Im at 27MPG now. Im very pleased with my gains. My next mod is going ot be an AFC to control a/f ratio

Stock: 14 mpg
Volo FS2: 19 mpg
HHO: 25 mpg
WVI: 27 mpg

so you got 2 mpg increase with WVI ?

[Helz_McFugly]

yea. thats about it. my car doesnt have a venturi port on it so I had to make one which might be restricting air a bit. I think the only way to really get good gains with WVI on my car is with the use of a water pump and a water atomization nozzle. OR with steam. I like the idea of a coiled copper pipe wraped around the exhaust as thw water passes through it to vaporize it. Ive drawn up a few blueprints on steam injections ide like to try.
Im runnig a test right now. I have turned off the HHO for this tank of gas to see what mileage I get with only WVI.

[spicerman]

Roland..
I have a 5.7 Chev 97 1500 4x4 pickup.
My steam system works like this: I have a pressure tank (now 5 psi) that was used for water inj. via a nozzle. Now it flows water to a metering valve, then goes down to the exhaust pipe (1/8 copper tube) Just before it starts to wrap around the exh. pipe it changes to 1/4 copper tube. It wraps 5 times around the area between the o2 sensor and the exh. manifold. It then goes up about 8" to my boiler that sits on top of the manifold. The boiler is a 2"x2'x6" 1/16 wall steel tubing. The 1/4 copper tubing comes in on the lower back side. Out of the top center I used 3/8 copper to run up to the throttle body. (I wanted to give room for any condensation to run back down inside the tube and avoid slugs of water from spurting onto the throttle plate) The last 4" I went back down to 1/4 Copper to "shoot the hoop" onto the throttle plate.
when its warmed up I can pull the tube out and watch a steady flow of steam.
My biggest frustration is that I don't run the truck enough to readily see what I'm accomplishing. But its been FUN!
The last long trip I took with it I got 22.8 MPG...

[Roland Jacques]

for a 1-2 LPH setup you would have to install at least a 7 gallon reservoir ( http://fluids.flambeau.com/multipurp....0_gallon.html) somewhere in the back of your truck and refill it two times a week or so...


(NOTE, 7 gallons would be about 14 hours of driving at 2LPH Hour my gas tank only goes 5 hours)


for a 20 LPH setup... that's 5.2 gallons an hour.. you would need a much bigger reservoir.. maybe one of these? http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/var...ariant_id=8972

I guess it would be difficult to hydrolock a 5.7L engine

it would be great to see a diagram of your idea

I dont think Hydro lock is an issue for any ICE at these very low rates. theoretically a 2 liter engine at 10 : 1 compression ratio should be able to take about 0.2 liters of non compressibles per revolution for it to hydro lock. That would be 140 liters per minute or 8400 LPH.
As long as our water is completely vaporized/atomised and it shuts off when the engine shuts off i would not worry about Hydro lock. What I would like to know is how much we are raising our compression by adding vapor. I dont think its much but i would like to know.

Water tank capacity not an issue with this vehicle, 200 gallon SW and 100 FW tanks on board (spicerman this 5.7 gets 11-12 MPG, 22 would be a miracle)

[livehho]

... The last long trip I took with it I got 22.8 MPG...

and what's the stock mpg? WVI is your only mod?

[hhonewbie]

Helz,
You could upsize the intake hose dia. to get a bigger venturi and have you tried upping the iso mix to see if you get more MPG gains.
Is your iso/water feed adjustable and how much LPH?