Water Injection Thread

[whynotthinkwhynot]

WOW long time no interest in this thread. I'm new here, but this is really interesting. I'm going to give that Berryman kit a try on the wifey's Windstar as it's our worst mileage vehicle. I'm not sure if it will be as effective. The MAF is crammed in the engine compartment right behind the air cleaner, and basically on top of the TB. There will be just about 4 inches of difference between the feed and the TB inlet. There is already a hose feed there for the oil breather that I can use. I'm not sure if another inlet can be installed or not since it's a flexible rubber joint. Maybe I can install some sort of AZ coupling instead.

You were talking about ways to prevent droplets from splashing up near the vacuum and not being atomized- how about putting some SS screen inside the vaporization chamber above the sponge? That might help atomize some more.

I don't know why you think that 2x 32oz containers are too much for your engine- it seems to be working well! Vapor injection behind the throttle plate is what's preventing you from seeing water vapor damage to your TPS.

I used to use water through a small vacuum line (not continuous) to clean combustion chambers with the engine running. It works well, better than FI cleaners IMO. Just so long as you don't let it suck up too much, and you do have to work the throttle while doing it to keep the engine running. I also used water in oil (yeah sounds crazy, works good) to steam clean the inside of an engine before rebuilding it. This is not recommended for modern OHC engines without replaceable cam bearings though. You'd be surprised how long you can run an engine with a gallon of water in the oil and no coolant in the radiator, and even more surprised how the gaskets simply fell off. The only thing I had to clean was the oil pan.

[whynotthinkwhynot]

Ooh aah vacuum controlled valve system using exhaust heated air intake, and according to this engineer you don't want to grab air from the air filter but bring in your own air from elsewhere on this system. This is a really complicated system, and even after reading it I have a few questions that weren't answered.

http://better-mileage.com/membervaporadx.html

Here's another one from NZ, rather old too as it discusses carbed vehicles only, but it describes using a container simply full of water/methanol mix as this was proved optimal in WW2 experiments. This is sucked into the intake via a vacuum hose. Control is provided mechanically using the vacuum advance distributor connection which was in front of the throttle plate (valve). There should be a vacuum connection to TB's in modern vehicles that is just in front of the plate as well whether the oil breather or PCV. Further mechanical control is provided by using a very small input for the water/methanol mix. The author describes using needles to penetrate the vacuum line which would only have been a 1/4 line anyway. Transfusion needles are fairly large, but still less than 1/4 of the 1/4" ID vacuum line used in this description.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/misc/mannject.html

I'm going to see what I can do with the oil breather input in the Windstar. It's about 3" from the TB, and I need to install a filter on it to reduce carbon anyway. Hopefully it won't reduce the vacuum so much that I build up more crankcase pressure than the PCV can handle.

[lowride]

Here is my design. Hope you like it.

http://api.ning.com/files/ecYWhc9tSM...zercloseup.JPG

http://api.ning.com/files/z*wNZC7eNy...erbubbler1.JPG

The water is sucked up by a wick and the then "dried" off the sock (without toe) inside the intake tube.

NB! The waterbottle MUST be BELOW the intake tube, and the sock MUST be placed AFTER the MAF/MAP sensor!!

I have saved about 10% of fuel in a VW Passat 1,9 Tdi 1995 and a Mercedes-Benz 300D 1979 :-)

On a Skoda Octavia 2003 1,9 Tdi , it didn't work.


Depending how thick the wick is, it uses from 2-3dl water / 100km.

[makindue]

Just about 2 weeks ago, my car started acting funny on startup and eventually started having some overheating issues that lead to me replacing my head gasket. Notice cylinder #2 where very small amounts of coolant/water was leaking into the cylinder.

[see attachment]

Goes to prove how well water clears up carbon.

Nice water injection. I am thinking that the problem is that you have to check out its air cooler so that it will not overheat again.
________
Sweetlove1 cam

[Roland Jacques]

I also used water in oil (yeah sounds crazy, works good) to steam clean the inside of an engine before rebuilding it. This is not recommended for modern OHC engines without replaceable cam bearings though. You'd be surprised how long you can run an engine with a gallon of water in the oil and no coolant in the radiator, and even more surprised how the gaskets simply fell off. The only thing I had to clean was the oil pan.

How did you ever come up with that idea! thats thinking out of the box all right. I hate scaping gaskets off. I dont think im brave enough to try this, Id fear some over heating warping heads... but it does sound interesting. I am guessing you are running it for 2 or 3 miniutes?

[Roland Jacques]

Ooh aah vacuum controlled valve system using exhaust heated air intake, and according to this engineer you don't want to grab air from the air filter but bring in your own air from elsewhere on this system. This is a really complicated system, and even after reading it I have a few questions that weren't answered.

http://better-mileage.com/membervaporadx.html

.

I have looked at this one a few times and i still cant make out half of it.

I don't understand the solenoids, their functions, and what their attached too. Especially the fuel one?

I guess the air solenoid is to bring in air to lean out the mixture, but then whats the fuel solenoid next to it for? To add fuel? A mini carb? and then what is the vac solenoid for.

[Stevo]

Sorry about the missing pics. I need to go back through here and try to re-link them.

[Stevo]

Attached the original drawing I did.

[Stevo]

I have ordered 100' of .010" Nickel 200/201 wire that I will be using in a much larger and taller bottle. The idea is to create a coil that produces some heat from 12v current essentially a water4gas style coil as we know those are massively inefficient. The unit will not use electrolyte, but rather tap water is the preferred source with a 5% isopropyl additive. Vacuum will still be pulled through this bottle the same way it was with the previous design except that now the water will be warmed by the 12v coil not to the point of boiling, but definitely above 120 F so that the water is more readily evaporated even in winter conditions. One byproduct will be oxyhydrogen in very minute amounts as well, so that is something to think about. Another really good test with this unit will be using approximately 35% methanol to water as MeOH can be separated at a much lower voltage even though I am using 12v. The extra waste heat created with this unit will most certainly not be wasted in the end, but rather serve an excellent purpose. I will post links to the underground in this thread where I have started a "Hybrid Water/Methanol Electrolysis" thread.

http://hhounderground.com/Forum/view...php?f=39&t=478