WOW long time no interest in this thread. I'm new here, but this is really interesting. I'm going to give that Berryman kit a try on the wifey's Windstar as it's our worst mileage vehicle. I'm not sure if it will be as effective. The MAF is crammed in the engine compartment right behind the air cleaner, and basically on top of the TB. There will be just about 4 inches of difference between the feed and the TB inlet. There is already a hose feed there for the oil breather that I can use. I'm not sure if another inlet can be installed or not since it's a flexible rubber joint. Maybe I can install some sort of AZ coupling instead.
You were talking about ways to prevent droplets from splashing up near the vacuum and not being atomized- how about putting some SS screen inside the vaporization chamber above the sponge? That might help atomize some more.
I don't know why you think that 2x 32oz containers are too much for your engine- it seems to be working well! Vapor injection behind the throttle plate is what's preventing you from seeing water vapor damage to your TPS.
I used to use water through a small vacuum line (not continuous) to clean combustion chambers with the engine running. It works well, better than FI cleaners IMO. Just so long as you don't let it suck up too much, and you do have to work the throttle while doing it to keep the engine running. I also used water in oil (yeah sounds crazy, works good) to steam clean the inside of an engine before rebuilding it. This is not recommended for modern OHC engines without replaceable cam bearings though. You'd be surprised how long you can run an engine with a gallon of water in the oil and no coolant in the radiator, and even more surprised how the gaskets simply fell off. The only thing I had to clean was the oil pan.