** DO NOT USE ** McMaster Carr Check Valve 47245K37

[Painless]

I've been recommending this check valve, part number 47245K37 from McMasterCarr, as I have been using it for quite a few months now without problems. The website describes it as follows:

" PVDF Body with Viton Diaphragm— For external applications requiring superior chemical and abrasion resistance. Temp. range is -70° to +250° F"

Well, this morning this check valve failed and my reservoir sucked vinegar from the cleansing bubbler back into itself. As you can imagine, the acid in the vinegar combined well with the base KOH solution.

Apologies to all that I have recommended this valve to that have used it, it was fine for me for many months until now.

[resago]

has anyone found a solid reliable check valve?

[Farmercal]

Why not just use two check valves inline with each other. Then you can periodically pull them off and check them to ensure they still provide protection. I know you shouldn't have to do that but any product can fail at any time.

[HHOinKY]

Just ordered one last night....damn.

[Painless]

I've been thinking this through whilst flushing and refilling my system this morning, the one thing that has changed yesterday is that the strenght of my electrolyte has gone up considerably. Perhaps this is what caused it to fail?

Instead of a check between the gen and the bubbler, I think a safer idea would be to use a solenoid valve attached to a breather hose on the gen. The valve should be normally open but closed when current is supplied.

[HHOinKY]

Did the KOH eat the valve some maybe?

[Jaxom]

The solenoid valve is a great idea, it could simply be wired in parallel with the genny and T'd into the output tube. You could also use a second check valve which allows fresh air INTO the generator, to prevent the buildup of vacuum when the genny cools. Folks who plumb their HHO directly into the intake manifold may not want to do this, as it will allow a sort of "bypass airflow" through the genny and into the engine which may throw off idle speed and cause trouble codes.

[Painless]

The solenoid valve is a great idea, it could simply be wired in parallel with the genny and T'd into the output tube. You could also use a second check valve which allows fresh air INTO the generator, to prevent the buildup of vacuum when the genny cools. Folks who plumb their HHO directly into the intake manifold may not want to do this, as it will allow a sort of "bypass airflow" through the genny and into the engine which may throw off idle speed and cause trouble codes.

I did have a second check valve attached to the lid of my genny in this fashion, so that air could flow in and not out. I had an issue with any production over approx 1.25 LPM being lost which I determined was somehow escaping through this valve. At first, I suspected that it's barb connection was the culprit, but that was not so. It was the same McMaster Carr valve as I previously mentioned.

I'm wondering where one of these solenoid valves can be sourced from and for how much.

[DigitalMocking]

I've got a friend who works for a pneumatic company, he's got stainless steal checkvalves available for around 40 bucks. I'm going to have one here this weekend to play around with a bit.

[cully]

I'm wondering where one of these solenoid valves can be sourced from and for how much.

go to your local scrap yard these type of valves are fitted to Subaru Renault citron and many more car makes

the valves control the vacuum that activates the waste gates on the turbo

they are 12volt 3 way solinoid valves