You know, I though so too. But the cell is cool to the touch and the gas comming out is cold. I also ran the gas out tube to a open top bubbler and made sure that the bubbles were indeed hydrogen.
I dont have a thermoprobe yet so I cannot measure temps.
I will post pics and hopefully videos tomarrow.
Here's the formula I used to get my MMW.
The cell ran 1 liter in 36 seconds, or 1000ml in 36 seconds. Thats 27.77ml/sec. Multiply 27.77ml by 30 seconds comes out to be 833.31ml. Multiply that by two and I got 1666.62ml in 1 min.
Amps x Volts = Watts
ML per Min / Watts = MMW
Is that the correct formula?
That is one way to come out with correct mil's per minute but your test results are so far over any that I have ever seen that something seems wrong. Either you must be measuring steam or your amp or volt or both measurements are somehow wrong. Those MMW readings are so far over unity that it would solve all the worlds energy issues. At those results you could run a generator that provided all the electricity to power your cell and with what was left over you still would out perform everyone else. I truely hope those results are correct but I have my doubts. Please share all you can. I hope we all can learn something here.
Larry
what power supply are you using ?
Amps: 8.9
Voltage: 12.4
Watts: 110.36
ML/Min: 1666.62
MMW: 15.101
Second test:
Amps: 8.2
Voltage: 12.1
Watts: 99.22
ML/Min: 1538.4
i ask the question because in your second test
the voltage has reduced and the current has also
normally if the cell voltage decreases the current goes up !
i suspect you are running battery's that were becoming empty and a charger that cant keep up
if your figures are right i congratulate you..
it would be nice to see some pictures or video
I hate to be negative, and also hope I'm wrong, but I share Larry and Cully's scepticism.
With the 0.40" pan liner and on 3 neutrals you're running at about 3 volts plus per cell. Also, the fact that the wires are getting hot says that something is amiss, what gauge wire did you use?
The cell does not necessarily need to get to the boiling point of water for water vapour to be in your gas stream, but I suspect that that's what's happening here. If you later on move this unit to your vehicle, your cell voltage will be even higher.
However, it may also be the case that the water vapour will be great for your vehicle as it also assists the power stroke, however, if you're using potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide you'll be ringing the dinner bell for your aluminium engine parts.
One thing I would recommend is to get yourself a big bucket, filled with cold water and the longest piece of hose you can find. Run the HHO outlet from your system through this hose and put as much of the hose into the bucket as you can. Take your readings again from the end of the hose. If there's a drastic change, then you can safely say that you are generating a lot of vapour.
Russ.
Russ, I believe they are 14 gauge wires. Only the negative set of wires are getting hot. The reason why the positive isnt getting hot is because I have a switch connected from the cell then about 12 gauge wire from the switch to the battery.
Where I live its about 20 degress F outside in the garage. Before I run the cell, the water is already the outside temperature. Plus, since I have plexiglass. I can see if im getting any steam on the inside of the cell. I haven't seen any. Boiling point is about 200F right? Even if I'm getting close to that, lets say 180F. Wouldn't I be able to feel the cell and it should be hot?
Just out of curiosity... how are you measuring your amps? ie. shunt meter, clamp meter, or automotive meter? How do you have it wired up?
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Some days I get the sinking feeling that Orwell was an optimist!
I'm measuring amps using an automotive digital multimeter that is auto ranging. I set it on uA to get the amps. I also tried setting it on A but I get .089 whereas I get 8.5 on the uA setting. I have the positive probe connected to the first plate and the negative probe connected to the fourth plate. My stack is +nnn-nnn+nnn-.