Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Dry Cell Plate config

  1. #1
    chevyguy04 Guest

    Dry Cell Plate config

    Ok you dry cell guys, I currently am working on a dry cell -NNNN+NNNN-, I have measured output because I broke the cap for the resevoir and havent had time to fix.

    Question is, what configs are you guys using? And where, how many, and size of holes in the plates? I guess I just dont know the internal looks of the dry cell. My cell currently runs in spurts the water doesnt flow consistently.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,174
    Quote Originally Posted by chevyguy04 View Post
    Ok you dry cell guys, I currently am working on a dry cell -NNNN+NNNN-, I have measured output because I broke the cap for the resevoir and havent had time to fix.

    Question is, what configs are you guys using? And where, how many, and size of holes in the plates? I guess I just dont know the internal looks of the dry cell. My cell currently runs in spurts the water doesnt flow consistently.
    Raise the reservoir.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Federalsburg, MD
    Posts
    1,538
    Also, make sure the tubing runs are straight with no dips and dives.

    I'm running +NNNNN- times 4 at 2.33 LPM with Lowes switch plate covers. I use the standard mounting holes they come with for electrolyte flow.
    2006 Dodge Ram 4.7L - 16.5 mpg stock
    My thread Painless Experiment in HHO

  4. #4
    chevyguy04 Guest
    what kind of amps are you drawing?

  5. #5
    tullyamo Guest
    Painless,

    Are the plates you are using the 1 gang ss plates?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Federalsburg, MD
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by tullyamo View Post
    Painless,

    Are the plates you are using the 1 gang ss plates?
    They are the 304SS plates made by cooper. They are the only ones Lowes have without premade holes for switches.

    If by one gang you mean they cover a single switch, then yes.
    2006 Dodge Ram 4.7L - 16.5 mpg stock
    My thread Painless Experiment in HHO

  7. #7
    Captain Charlie Guest
    Can anyone explain +nnn-nnn etc. I'm in the dark.

    And, does anyone know where I can see a drawing of a finished closed cell
    device?

    Thanks,

    Charlie

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Charlie View Post
    Can anyone explain +nnn-nnn etc. I'm in the dark.

    And, does anyone know where I can see a drawing of a finished closed cell
    device?

    Thanks,

    Charlie
    +nnnnn-

    Is the simple way to describe your plate configuration. The plus and minus symbols each represent a plate that has a power connector attached. The "nnnnn" are plates that are not connected to any power lead. Some refer to these as neutral plates, however they is a bit if a misnomer. The unconnected plates still conduct electricity via the electrolyte. By adding the "n" plates you drop the overall voltage for each plate gap. This has the effect of reducing heat production. You want something between 2.0 - 2.4 volts DC for each plate gap for the best production. Anything more will just create heat.

    So in a car, a +nnnnn- configuration works out to something like:

    13.8 VDC divided by 6 plate gaps = 2.3 VDC per gap.


    When you see them listed as:

    +nnnnn-nnnnn+nnnnn-

    This just means that they have combined multiple cell stacks in series. It still has the same voltage drop across each plate gap. This allows you to increase your plate surface area.


    Assuming that by "Closed Cell" you mean "Dry Cell" check out:

    http://www.alt-nrg.org

    or

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uEHF...e=channel_page
    --
    Some days I get the sinking feeling that Orwell was an optimist!

  9. #9
    bigjim56 Guest
    Excellent explanation Q-Hack, I have a hard time understanding this also, but its slowly sinking in.

    The 13.8 amps mentioned here, its measured at the power point, not the alternator, correct?

    I've seen that +nnnnn-nnnnn+nnnnn- configureation mentioned a few times, this appears to be the better set up mentioned by the more experienced testers here.

    Thanks,

    bigjim56

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    627
    Quote Originally Posted by bigjim56 View Post
    Excellent explanation Q-Hack, I have a hard time understanding this also, but its slowly sinking in.

    The 13.8 amps mentioned here, its measured at the power point, not the alternator, correct?

    I've seen that +nnnnn-nnnnn+nnnnn- configureation mentioned a few times, this appears to be the better set up mentioned by the more experienced testers here.

    Thanks,

    bigjim56
    The 13.8 should be Volts DC not amps. Most cars charging systems operate somewhere between 13.5 - 14.5 volts. You can measure this at the alternator or at the battery itself. It doesn't make that much of a difference.
    --
    Some days I get the sinking feeling that Orwell was an optimist!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •