Newbie Questions

[cozumel2]

OK, I have read a few of the threads, built a wet cell and a 3 plate set just to tinker with. So far I have created this boiling batch of black swamp water and melted a few feet of wire and the edges of some of the local tupperware supply. Through trial & error, I have determined that amp draw seems to a function of square inches of plate material and electrolyte. I tried softened water and table salt-got the swamp water in about 60 seconds and red hot 10ga wire. Back to Wal-Mart for distilled water.

Now for my questions. 1)If you build a wet cell, how do you set your amp draw, vary the electrolyte? 2)Next, is the problem with a salt based/distilled water solution purely the risk of salt being introduced into the air intake? Salt seems to fill the need for an electrolyte and an antifreeze here in the great white north. If I can isolate or scrub the "salt vapor" from my HHO, will I have the problem licked? In lieu of salt, what alternatives can somebody offer to combat our inevitable -20 nights in Jan & Feb? 3) Regardless of the electrolyte used, will you get a nasty looking liquid after awhile or should that cell be relatively clear for a few weeks? 4) I am using food grade 304 stainless for plates because it is readily available for me. Am I asking for problems with that? Seems like the switchplates that are popular here would be a lower grade stainless. Hey, don't laugh, most of you started out this dumb too. Thanks

[daddymikey1975]

the current draw can be controlled (for the most part) by changing the strength of the electrolyte.

I'd ditch the salt. It creates muddy water. It releases chlorine gas as well.

for your temp. swings, I'd read all you can about using a cell in the wintertime. There are many ways to deal with the situation, however there's no 'one answer fits all' solution as of yet (that I'm aware of) many people have experimented with ideas, etc. but the experiments have produced mixed results.

the 304 stuff is ok quality... not great, but it's not copper either. if you build a cell, use a very weak solution and run your generator for a while to condition the plates, most of the impurities in the metal will leech out after a week or so... then you can clean them again, flush with distilled water, re-assemble and youre good to go.

You can also get free distilled water from the discharge of a de-humidifier.

I hope this helps.
mike

[H2OPWR]

OK, I have read a few of the threads, built a wet cell and a 3 plate set just to tinker with. So far I have created this boiling batch of black swamp water and melted a few feet of wire and the edges of some of the local tupperware supply. Through trial & error, I have determined that amp draw seems to a function of square inches of plate material and electrolyte. I tried softened water and table salt-got the swamp water in about 60 seconds and red hot 10ga wire. Back to Wal-Mart for distilled water.

Now for my questions. 1)If you build a wet cell, how do you set your amp draw, vary the electrolyte? 2)Next, is the problem with a salt based/distilled water solution purely the risk of salt being introduced into the air intake? Salt seems to fill the need for an electrolyte and an antifreeze here in the great white north. If I can isolate or scrub the "salt vapor" from my HHO, will I have the problem licked? In lieu of salt, what alternatives can somebody offer to combat our inevitable -20 nights in Jan & Feb? 3) Regardless of the electrolyte used, will you get a nasty looking liquid after awhile or should that cell be relatively clear for a few weeks? 4) I am using food grade 304 stainless for plates because it is readily available for me. Am I asking for problems with that? Seems like the switchplates that are popular here would be a lower grade stainless. Hey, don't laugh, most of you started out this dumb too. Thanks

Cozume, No one is laughing. We are here to help. In fact I admire asking questions instead of doing what I did and waste hundreds of dollars on poor designs.
1) Your amp draw will be a function of exposed metal surface and electrical conductivity of the water.
2) Do not use salt. First thing is that you will continue to create what you have. The best choice is Potassium Hydroxide. It's problem is that it can be hard to find and a little expensive although a little goes a long way. Second choice would be Sodium Hydroxide. It is easier to find as it is only crystal drain opener (lye). Just make sure that you get 100% Sodium Hydroxide. Most hardware stores sell it.
3) If you are using a good quality stainless your cell should stop making the brown water in a few hours of use at which time you should drain and rinse the plates and start with fresh solution. Good Luck
What part of the Great White North are you from?