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Thread: Ceramic Core Housing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Oklahoma, USA
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    Ceramic Core Housing

    I have been toying with the idea that a ceramic lined container may be the way to go. Glass seems to dissapate the heat well, while plastics are easier to work with and come in a variety of shapes and sizes. If I can install my cells within a ceramic container, then insert the ceramic into a protective shell I believe that the only reason heat will be a problem would be steam.

    Anyone experimented with such a thing yet? Will Lye eat through the ceramic?

  2. #2
    Ronjinsan Guest
    Go with glass! Been there done it, got the T shirt! If its good enough for beer its good enough for me! 8-)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Right on Ron...I started out with a mayo jar and some switch plates as my first sealed testing container and will likely go with glass for my actual units with a protective mounting setup....Any recomendations for a container source when using 2" x 8" plates?

    I figured on custom ceramic containers because I can design the shape and size, but also eliminate the need for active cooling all together...Although I have read but not tested that as temp rises so does production and current...Any idea if this is actually true?

  4. #4
    timetowinarace Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by computerclinic View Post
    .Although I have read but not tested that as temp rises so does production and current...Any idea if this is actually true?
    My experience is that as temp rises so do the amps. I am using ABS pipe and have boiled the water. No harm done to the pipe. But amps go high enough to blow my 30amp fuse.

    I have not measured output at the higher temps(near boiling) but it stands to reason that higher amps=higher output. Also as the water heats the molecules will be excited and break apart easier. Think actuall boiling of the water would restrict output because the bubbles would take up plate area.

  5. #5
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    Do you notice any change in MPG or production of gas volume at boiling points? I am wondering about the air inside the boiling water bubbles as opposed to the hho. Also, are you using a PWM?

  6. #6
    timetowinarace Guest
    I havn't noticed a mpg change because my fuse blew, so no output after that. Also it wouldn't be possible to measure hho output with simple measures in a boiling system because the gases from boiling would be mixed with the hho. I'm in the proccess adjusting electolyte so that amps peak at 30 on a long run regardless of temp.

    I actually would prefer water vapor/steam in my system. Being a turbo diesel, water vapor would be cooled in the intercooler thus adding compression in the cylinder when it expands again during combustion.

    No PWM

  7. #7
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    Thats really good to know...so a bit of water vapor in a diesel is okay, but in a gas engine its no good....Thanks,,,

  8. #8
    troymacdonald Guest

    Brainstorm on control

    I came up with what I think would be a good idea:

    An electric thermostat inside the container to measure the water temp. At a given temp, say 130 degrees, the thermostat would send a signal to a limiter circuit.

    The limiter circuit will limit the imput to the generator at just under 30 amps. A limiter will maintain a set current, but the signal from the thermostat will drop input to a given threshold of, say 15 or 20 amps.

    The idea is that it would be circular system that would constantly keep itself in check. I am no where near smart enough to design the circuitry myself but I'm checking out electronics forums and websites to educate myself.

    Any thoughts on this matter?

    Also, I would like to redo my 13 wall plates with slightly larger manufactured ones - about 3 by 6 inches and use ceramic spacers between. I like the idea of using a ceramic lining on the inside of the container.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    713
    THe idea had merrit no doubt. The thermometer must be able to withstand corrosive substances. Perhaps it could be coated in glass?
    2006 Ram, 5.9 cummins HO. 4 cell design, 1.5 LPM@30amp, 24.3 MPG

  10. #10
    dennis13030 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by troymacdonald View Post
    I came up with what I think would be a good idea:

    An electric thermostat inside the container to measure the water temp. At a given temp, say 130 degrees, the thermostat would send a signal to a limiter circuit.

    The limiter circuit will limit the imput to the generator at just under 30 amps. A limiter will maintain a set current, but the signal from the thermostat will drop input to a given threshold of, say 15 or 20 amps.

    The idea is that it would be circular system that would constantly keep itself in check. I am no where near smart enough to design the circuitry myself but I'm checking out electronics forums and websites to educate myself.

    Any thoughts on this matter?

    Also, I would like to redo my 13 wall plates with slightly larger manufactured ones - about 3 by 6 inches and use ceramic spacers between. I like the idea of using a ceramic lining on the inside of the container.
    Just use an RTD connected to the input of the PWM(might need a inverting amplifier to invert the signal). Or easier, just use a resettable fuse. Resettable fuses detect over-current conditions, then opens the switch, when the resettable fuse cools down, the switch closes again. Its an indirect but very simple way to set a max temperature.

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