Yes, use citric acid. Just add it to the water, shake and let sit for about an hour or so. The brown gunk will completely disappear.Originally Posted by Hans H
Senior Member
Yes, use citric acid. Just add it to the water, shake and let sit for about an hour or so. The brown gunk will completely disappear.
Senior Member
What stainless alloy are you using? 302, 304, 316, 316L
The lower the carbon content the better typically.
What is the voltage between plates? 2v, 2.5, 3, higher?
What is the average amperage of your cell?
Are you using tap or distilled water?
Did you wash and condition your plates first?
yes, too high gap voltage = brown gunk. 120v/15 plate gaps = 8v. way too high! This is causing the brown gunk. 120v/48=2.5v, 47 neutrals would be a good starting config.
Member
You're right !! I dropped the voltage to 24V. I changed the water and 1 TSP of KOH / Gal. I ran it about 30 minutes and no GOOO. I need to get 35 more 6x6 plates and rebuild my cell. If I use 50 plates I will have approx.2V/plate. Then add KOH until I reach the 9-10 Amp range. Thanks for the info. OH one more question... What does MMW mean when measuring HHO production?? I know its a ratio to Watts..... Thanks!
Junior Member
ya man, Hans H again... out of town for awhile. I have a 17 (perf)plate design with 1 neutral between ea pos and neg... straight 12v. thing is I don't know the grade of stainless, but it is totally non-magnetic. Another friend gave me the KOH so I don't know if thats the problem either, but I'm going back to distilled vinegar presently.
I generate a lot of gas with my unit at 10-14a, but I HATE that sludge... no way to promote the concept, with a nice clear container!! How the hay do I measure the voltage between plates?? Thanks to all you guys for the input. H
Junior Member
Distilled vinegar really sucks for bubble output. Scrap that!
There is citric acid available online, but the shipping cost is 3x the product
cost for Mrs. Wages brand canning type... Maybe coolaid or lemon juice is
a reliable substitute. Anybody??
Senior Member
Hans citric acid,koolaid and lemon juice won't work worth a flip in dry cell designs(I've tried them all with no luck).The voltage is there but no amp draw.
Only the wet cells seem to work with the acids because they require only weak solutions of e-lyte for production.
Super Moderator
I agree, plus, anything that leaves any kind of residue (as most acids do) is a nightmare for dry cell users.
Member
Painless.... I have a question for you. I built a dry cell like the one you made the video about. I used the wall plates (16) like you did. I flattened the edges to get more plate area. I drilled the top hole in the plates out to 1/4in. I used 1/16th" rubber roof membrane to cut my gaskets from. I stacked the plates using + 4n - 4n...etc. I used approx. 4 Tbsp./Gal. of KOH. The water "in" is a 1/4" and the gas out is a 3/8". My cell is running at 12VDC at 9-13 Amps. I've ran it for approx. 20 Hrs. and there is just a hint of brown in the e-lyte. My question is ...The best gas production I can get is 1Ltr./70 sec. What should I expect?? Is it in the ball park?? What MMW would that be???
Super Moderator
I would say that you're doing very well!
At 11 amps and 12 volts your 1 liter in 70 seconds makes for a 6.49 MMW!
A hint of brown in the electrolyte is normal, however, it may take a few days to properly condition and you may go through the leaching stage (brown particles coming out of the cell) if you increase KOH.
Keep your eye on the temp of the cell, a laser thermometer is cheap and gives a good guide when aimed at the top of the cell. Try and keep your cell temp under 140 F.
If you use this cell in a vehicle, you will need to add another N plate.
For your info, my 25 plate design pulled 2.33 LPM at 5.4 MMW.
Great job! I would love to see a video or even some pics of your cell.
Russ.
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