Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30

Thread: Sudden loss of compression! only 20miles of hho

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by overtaker View Post
    I am not a mechanic but is the electrolyte in your boosters low? Did the electrolyte siphon into the motor? I don't know if this would cause the problems your experiencing or not. Just thinking out loud. Best of luck.
    Alot of water would lock up the engine but if it was getting a little water it would vaporize when the gas burns raising compression and could blow a head gasket, maybe crack a head.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    8
    The Cells are fresh and I didn't run them very long on the car. I'm using the Water4Gas design, it has a line with a ribbed anchor inserted at one end and the other to the bubbler valve so I would think that would have kept out water although I was not using a separate bubbler. I looked at the vinyl line to see if there was any moister and didn't really see much. Yeah, I would have thought that some strange pressure or heat created and blew the head gasket, but the wet compression test determined that cylinders 1,2,and 3 had 0 and #4 had 105.

    Yes the engine sounds like its freewheeling (constant) when I start it. A classic sound of no compression.

    here is a picture of the spark plug on cylinder #1

    I will keep everybody informed and take lots of pictures when I remove the cylinder head.

    Thanks for any input

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    S.E.Ga. coast
    Posts
    17
    I would check first for a broken timing belt or chain. Pull the dist. cap and spin the motor over, see if the rotor is turning.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    363
    I wonder what the white 'corrosive' looking stuff is on the outer electrode of that plug in the second picture ??
    the plug doesn't look like it got too hot, but that white stuff could be tell-tale..

    his hands don't look nearly dirty enough to be an engine swapping man HAHA... I can't get my hands that clean after working on my cars.. at least not for a week HAHA..


    Quote Originally Posted by jericoriver View Post
    I would check first for a broken timing belt or chain. Pull the dist. cap and spin the motor over, see if the rotor is turning.
    broken timing components would not contribute to no compression.

    the only things that contribute to compression are the piston rings, the valves staying closed and the head gasket (and head) being tight.

    even if the timing belt had broken, it's VERY unlikely that he'd see no compression at all on 3 adjacent cylinders. more likely would be 1 and 3 or 2 and 4.

    my money's on holes in the top of the pistons or a head gasket.

    either way it still sucks.

    hope you get it figured out.

    mike
    Individually our voices are but a whisper, only together will we be heard.
    ENERGY SHOULD BE AND WILL BE FREE

  5. #15
    Was the water level low in your cell after this happened? The 2nd pic doesnt look good. if I was you I would pull the head off, should be easy on that engine.

    I would drain the oil too, my oil looked fine after I did the head gaskets. I know antifreeze was in there but it looked fine. I drained almost 1 gal of antifreeze out of it. I has synthetic oil in it, maybe synthetic doesnt mix with antifreeze like normal oil.

  6. #16
    coffeeachiever Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Michaeljp86 View Post
    Alot of water would lock up the engine but if it was getting a little water it would vaporize when the gas burns raising compression and could blow a head gasket, maybe crack a head.
    I think what Overtaker is getting at is what the electrolyte will do to the metal components of an engine. Especially aluminum. What I got from his question was that he is concerned that the aluminum was damaged from the electrolyte being sucked into the intake.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,079
    Quote Originally Posted by jericoriver View Post
    I would check first for a broken timing belt or chain. Pull the dist. cap and spin the motor over, see if the rotor is turning.
    Good sugestion, and quick easy test also. but with no noise
    please keep us posted

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    8
    ha ha Orange GoJo dude! It does wonders to my hands!

    thanks to all. Now time to find the wonders that lie in my combustion chamber

    and YES whatever happened it does SUCK.
    now I'm suck driving my project car (85 RX-7) I wonder how well rotary's do on HHO? I am a little scared of hooking up my cells to it. I guess I would definitely use a separate bubbler this time.


    Oh, and here are my cells that I have freshly build. Now that I've done this research and read some threads I can see why dry cells are the future. Does anybody have a link to a thread discussing how a dry cell works? Does it pass the water with electrolyte through it?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    UK....Devon
    Posts
    92
    umm arnt those 1 way valves the wrong way round ?
    here

    shouldnt they let air into the cell to stop the cell sucking the bubbler water back.

    the arrows shows it passing HHO out from the cell

    or do my eyes lie

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Corsicana,Texas
    Posts
    258
    Why would you have 2 different sets of valves? Do you have it hooked to manifold vacuum?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •