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Thread: Anybody else having exponential heat problems?

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  1. #1
    brunet Guest

    Anybody else having exponential heat problems?

    I can't seem to run my cell in my car for more than 20mins until i have to shut it down, as the heat goes up so do the amps. I am not sure how to solve it. This hho business is harder than it seems. I could put in some resistors to try and keep resistance down ? or maybe use a current or voltage limiter of some kind? reostat or poteniometer? Also i've been reading about neutral apltes. How does that work? do you hook them up in series with the electrical power?? how would a nonconductive surface help? Or do you hook the neutrals up in parrallel with the plates?

  2. #2
    feefreehho Guest

    Less Heat

    Check out pwmpower.com or pwmpower on youtube for his tutorial on how to build your own pwm or you can buy one, too. He will explain what a pwm is and how it works.
    feefreehho

  3. #3
    brunet Guest
    yea dude, thats getting pretty complicated. Wouldn't a simple variable resistor or reostat work better?

  4. #4
    dstew2 Guest
    Neutral plates are isolated from the positive and negative plates. Have you tried a lower concentration of electrolyte to reduce the conductivity therefore lowering the temp?

  5. #5
    bagrman Guest

    Plates

    When you put together your plates you can do this +NNN-nnn+ , this or any combination will work. you need the PMW to control the heat and power going in to the unit. 1 tablespoon of baking soda and a splash of vinegar to keep the plates clean and a cup of alcohol if there is a fear of freezing, per gal. check out zerofossilfuel on youtube, he has a great wealth of ideas, on design of these.

    Latr
    Chris

  6. #6
    brunet Guest
    yea that PWM is crazy complicated!!!! you need a degree to understand that! lol I tried very little electrolyte. It only lasts maybe 15 or 20 mins longer, but after a while it heats up no matter how much electrolye i start off with. Badically for me 1/2 tablespoon lasted about 20 mins until it was drawing over 60 amps and getting way to hot, you could actually feel the car bogging, seems that for a little civic engine the sweet spot is about 25amps give or take a bit. Then when it tried half a teaspoon it lasted for about 40mins before i had to shut it off.

    Why would a reostat or variable resistor not work? Would the amp draw eventually out run the limitation of the reostat/resistor?. Putting in plain resistors as it heats might slow it down but probably won't stabilize it right?.

  7. #7
    hydropower KY Guest
    I had issues with heat when I first started this.I don't have issues anymore.I have a very low cost cooling system that been very succesfull in all the systems I have installed.I use a $29.00 transmission cooler,a $38.00 shurflow pump,a $9.00 timer,a couple of fittings and an $8.00 add a link fuse line.Works great.My temp stays below 110 degrees.After running 5 hours and pulling 22amps.

  8. #8
    sp1r0 Guest
    You guys into cooling now, haha, genius. I guess it is really necessary for HHO output needed eh? When I did initial test on my 12 plate 316SS 2"x12"x.06" I measured water temp at 150F. Was drawing more amps too, which means more gas. Some kind of feedback loop going on, similar to thermal runaway in bipolar transistors. Maybe coolingwill be the next greatest thing. From my experience water cooling my computer there are a few companies that manufacture smaller type rad's you guys might be looking for. Try googling Swiftech. Do research on water cooling systems fof desktops. You may find the parts you desire.

  9. #9
    otrcomm Guest
    I had heating problems also! My system went to boiling point quickly. Then setup a system similar to hydropower KY, except I use a heater core from a junk motorhome and now system stays below 100 F. I have the outfeed of recirculation system above the electrodes about two inches and infeed at bottom. This keeps a constant level in system and circulation helps strip bubbles off ss tubes. I also have a radiator overflow container plumbed into system that is calibrated to "show" the electrolyte level in the hho generators. I add electrolyte through the radiator overflow container instead of going into the hho generators. I have the heater core mounted in front of my radiator like a transmission cooler so electrolyte stays cool. I realize that you get more hydrogen production from a hotter system, but I didn't want to get into building a temperature sensor configuration to control my shurflo pump.

  10. #10
    COMP Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by otrcomm View Post
    I had heating problems also! My system went to boiling point quickly. Then setup a system similar to hydropower KY, except I use a heater core from a junk motorhome and now system stays below 100 F. I have the outfeed of recirculation system above the electrodes about two inches and infeed at bottom. This keeps a constant level in system and circulation helps strip bubbles off ss tubes. I also have a radiator overflow container plumbed into system that is calibrated to "show" the electrolyte level in the hho generators. I add electrolyte through the radiator overflow container instead of going into the hho generators. I have the heater core mounted in front of my radiator like a transmission cooler so electrolyte stays cool. I realize that you get more hydrogen production from a hotter system, but I didn't want to get into building a temperature sensor configuration to control my shurflo pump.

    can you post pics of your system ?

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