PWM for less heat in your cell

[donsimpson12]

ok.. I put my unit together today..

It sure doesn't produce enough HHO to do anything, but it does product around the same amount as those that are on YouTube, ect.. hmmm..

We did make some cool HHO waterbottle bombs though.. lol...

Aside from pyro fun, I was with some really smart folks today and we all agree that I need to somehow increase the output about 5 to 7 fold to see an opportunity to see any mpg gains..

I guess I really have to figure the electronic side to get this mastered..

The PMW that I had in my previous post seemed to work ok.. At wide open it maintained a 20 amp load without any issues.

Water temps and getting more HHO is going to be key on my end..

[thebargew]

ok.. I put my unit together today..

It sure doesn't produce enough HHO to do anything, but it does product around the same amount as those that are on YouTube, ect.. hmmm..

We did make some cool HHO waterbottle bombs though.. lol...

Aside from pyro fun, I was with some really smart folks today and we all agree that I need to somehow increase the output about 5 to 7 fold to see an opportunity to see any mpg gains..

I guess I really have to figure the electronic side to get this mastered..

The PMW that I had in my previous post seemed to work ok.. At wide open it maintained a 20 amp load without any issues.

Water temps and getting more HHO is going to be key on my end..

From my understanding the pwm is suppose to help you keep the system cool not right off the bat but on long durations. So if you used a high amount of electro to produce a fair amount of hho starting at 10 amps lets say. You would be good for short durations. If you used it for a 4 hour ride your system would be drawing 20+ amps and be much hotter.
So say your starting at 20amps.... It would be upwards of 30+.

The idea of more HHO production is not a fast volume but as able to use it longer without changing out your solution.

[ELECTR0N3RD]

From my understanding the pwm is suppose to help you keep the system cool not right off the bat but on long durations. So if you used a high amount of electro to produce a fair amount of hho starting at 10 amps lets say. You would be good for short durations. If you used it for a 4 hour ride your system would be drawing 20+ amps and be much hotter.
So say your starting at 20amps.... It would be upwards of 30+.

The idea of more HHO production is not a fast volume but as able to use it longer without changing out your solution.

lol nice bombs, i want to try and make a potato cannon with one, lol does anyone think that will work? I almost got into trouble when i was building my first water4gas styled one, you see i was sitting on a bench waiting at the max station so i decided to finish putting my electrodes on, and a security guard asked me what i was building, so jokingly i said "just a bomb" he looked at me for a miniute then chuckled as he then realized it was a joke and then he persisted to ask so to avoid being thrown to the cement by a gorrilla of a man i told him, well...I sure thought it was funny at the time.

[troymacdonald]

So, I woke up this morning, had a cup of coffee and a brainstorm, or perhaps just a brain drizzle...anyway, this is what I thought of:

My work bench set up is far from optimal for conducting experiments of this kind so I rely a lot on other people's observations, so here is what I've come up with through my own trial and error and reading others' information - The process of HHO production is somewhat reliant on an increase of heat, but only to a point. I have gleened/understood/observed that point to be approximately 130 degrees +/- 5%. Anything over that and you start to get too much water vapor/steam and too great of an amp draw and no increase of production, just wasted energy. SO....

PWMs may or may not work, depending on whom you speak to. How about this instead: a digital thermometer that is connected to a PWM of sorts that automatically adjusts the current input at a set temp. For example, if at 130 degrees you are drawing 20 amps and getting the HHO you need. As the temp. hits 131/132 the thermometer sends a signal to the PWM that cuts back the current to about 15 amps until the temp. drops back to 129/130.

I know those numbers probably aren't accurate, but it would seem that would work. It could also be coupled with our own O2 sensor in the lid of the bubble that would act similarly to the ones in the vehicle exhaust line but connected to the HHO circuitry instead.

These ideas might be taking an inch and stretching it a mile or over engineering what should be a simple process.

Next question: I don't know very little about building digital ciruits. Had some training on it about 10 years ago so I can eventually figure it out: where can I go to find schematics on how to build some of the stuff I mentioned?

[dennis13030]

So, I woke up this morning, had a cup of coffee and a brainstorm, or perhaps just a brain drizzle...anyway, this is what I thought of:

My work bench set up is far from optimal for conducting experiments of this kind so I rely a lot on other people's observations, so here is what I've come up with through my own trial and error and reading others' information - The process of HHO production is somewhat reliant on an increase of heat, but only to a point. I have gleened/understood/observed that point to be approximately 130 degrees +/- 5%. Anything over that and you start to get too much water vapor/steam and too great of an amp draw and no increase of production, just wasted energy. SO....

PWMs may or may not work, depending on whom you speak to. How about this instead: a digital thermometer that is connected to a PWM of sorts that automatically adjusts the current input at a set temp. For example, if at 130 degrees you are drawing 20 amps and getting the HHO you need. As the temp. hits 131/132 the thermometer sends a signal to the PWM that cuts back the current to about 15 amps until the temp. drops back to 129/130.

I know those numbers probably aren't accurate, but it would seem that would work. It could also be coupled with our own O2 sensor in the lid of the bubble that would act similarly to the ones in the vehicle exhaust line but connected to the HHO circuitry instead.

These ideas might be taking an inch and stretching it a mile or over engineering what should be a simple process.

Next question: I don't know very little about building digital ciruits. Had some training on it about 10 years ago so I can eventually figure it out: where can I go to find schematics on how to build some of the stuff I mentioned?

On the surface, this sounds like a great idea. Use the normal operation of the electrolyzer as a heating element and use a thermostat to control it's set point temperature.

First thing, you do not need a digital thermometer. Just a RTD, a reference voltage and a simple analog amplifier. The only time you would need a thermometer is during development/installation to fix a set point temp.

Second, it may be simpler to just use a constant current source. You would still need a thermometer during development/installation to fix a maximum temperature.

[Bwanar]

The idea sounds good. If you used a constant source however, when you turned it off for cooling you would have NO production. With varying the Amp supply off the temp, you would still have production all the time. I have beenn thinking along these lines for a week or so also.

[Boltazar]

Recieved this today www.fuelsaver-mpg.com havent read all yet.

Pete

[lou]

lol nice bombs, i want to try and make a potato cannon with one, lol does anyone think that will work?

I was talking to a friend about that exact thing yesterday.

how do you ck volume?
here we tried......Anyone near Tempe,AZ? that's where this went down.

[HHOWolfen]

has anyone considered adapting the Hydrostar Hytronics unit for PWM?

[lou]

has anyone considered adapting the Hydrostar Hytronics unit for PWM?

No one's going to reply to you since your packing a sword!