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Thread: Ideal Plate Thickness

  1. #11
    dennis13030 Guest
    rmptr,

    It is not surprising that when a change is made to the fuel of a vehicle that there must be an update made to it's computer/sensors/program. I would hope that this update can be done by changing the program parameters for the vehicle. A perfomance shop should be able to maximize the performance and answer the question about the sensors and EFIE.

  2. #12
    goingreen Guest
    It would be best to stay away from baking soda because of the "pond scum" effect and stay away from table salt since it gives off chlorine gas.
    The best electrolyte is KOH (Potasium Hydroxide) which is used in taxidermy and SOH (Sodium Hydroxide) which does have sodium in it but is just a small fraction than that of salt.
    SOH (aka Lye) can be purchased in the form of Roebic Drain Cleaner from Lowes. Home Depot also sells one but I'm not sure if it's 100% SOH. Roebics is 100% SOH. It takes about 1 3/4 tsp per Gallon to make my Smack's Booster work well. (Generates 1.2 Litres/Minute at 18-20 Amps)
    Hope this helps!

  3. #13
    SlipperyNinja Guest
    just wanted to poke in and clarify something that maybe is just a common short cut, maybe is an accidental accident...NaOH is Sodium Hydroxide/Lye/Don't Touch!...SOH would be Sulphur Hydroxide, and i'm not sure if that exists...i've also seen POH used somewhere instead of KOH(not sure if it was here or elsewhere), is this common short cut action? Phosphorus Hydroxide could be pretty gnarly, though....


    how about that glossary of terms/abbr./etc....

    and just to touch the topic...anyone know the effect of differing thicknesses of plates...say, thicker "neutral" plates might reduce amp draw....perhaps their mere presence would be enough to make the wired plates feel inadequate and proceed to work harder...just throwing stuff against the wall, hoping for a breakthrough...

  4. #14
    u4david Guest

    Wink plate just right

    I do like mine 1mm thick ss plates.
    Thick enough to stay straight thin enough not to have wide edges that waste el.energy.
    The material is magnetic (i use spatula blades 3x8 high polished austenitic-ferritic N 1.4460)It is just the one my spatulas are made of and that is what i got.(Under 2$ each shipping included)

    I got aggressive but hot production little above 20 amps with baking soda.I ordered KOH to have more stable production and some tools to do more accurate testings(my 1.2.6 plate configuration)
    -NNN+NNN-.



    Also i came up with o-ring spacers that allow me to control spacing on the run with out taking it apart.

    I think that with magnetism is yet to be experienced.
    I think that polarity could affect gas release an molecular positions in electrolyte and gas and further....?.

    theoretically north should be in direction gas is released (up) but all plates should have the same polarity or should they?
    I could magnetize my plates using coil from wire with plates in core and shorting battery terminals with it.

    Also I'm working on laminar flow design.
    Plates mounted in tube,offset to one side towards side wall, horizontally positioned whole unit with plates edges up and down.(in this case i will split the 3x8 plates the long way doubling the plate counts >2.3.12 -nnn+nnn-nnn+nnn-configurationand allowing more space and friendlier hydrodynamics for flow (and further experiment with N plates quantity to 2.3.?).
    As we all know hho will set the water in motion.My objective is to take the motion and direct it around back under the bottom of the plates with minimum motion energy loss.

    Hoping the stream to turn loose any created hho an bring electrolyte to plate contact and possible create turbo effect where by produced energy is returned to increase production.

    Also will implement thermal circulation where gas pushing hot water in to a reservoir (bubbler) will then escapes from water allowing the water to cool there and return to bottom of the unit back in to the process.

    This is all in progress and no need to make this a ultimate design as wee all know failures do happened as result of our uneducated philosophies.

    What do you have coming to your mind?

    also ideas for enclosures al welcome.
    so far i got pluming supply and also manual holder enclosure used to hold user manual on equipment both under 10$

  5. #15
    davar Guest
    Has any one used titanium plates?

  6. #16
    dennis13030 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by davar View Post
    Has any one used titanium plates?
    Titanium plates? I'm sorry young man I only use Platinum. Hmm yes. LOL

    Are you kidding? Titanium is way to expensive.

  7. #17
    daveczrn Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by davar View Post
    Has any one used titanium plates?

    I'm sure titanium would work great. It works very well when anodizing aluminum to hold the aluminum part. But when titanium is still entirely too expensive. Especially because titaniums biggest advantage is that it will not corrode as fast as other materials will.

    316 stainless 1/32"thick 24"x24" $44
    grade 5 titanium 24"x24"x1/32" $911.21


    I'll stick with the stainless.

  8. #18
    kajreklaw Guest

    plates thickness

    I created an 8 plate small version of Smacks design.. I only get production from the two end plates and the negative post in th middle.. the neutrals just sit there taking a bath! can someone PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE explain the purpose of the neutrals?? what do they accomplish??

    so I got frustrated and connected 4 plates POS and the ohters NEG.. lots more bubbles - LOTS OF HEAT IN THE WIRES, (12g wires). the wires i'm using are getting HHOOTT!!!! the gen itself is pretty normal, not really even warm to the touch.. I'm using an ATV 12v battery for testing my design skills (or lack there of)... I am using 6tsp of LYE (100% Roebick), pulling 11.53v @ 13+ amps, plates are 16g I bought from ACE and (drill)wire brushed them til they were brite and shiny!!(i believe i may have even thinned them out a bit!!! then scratched the heck out of them with a file and have nylon nuts/washers/threaded posts to attach the cell.

    Are my plates too thick?? did I not connect something right?? I have "champagne" bubbles (lot sof them, and the wonderful fizzing sound).. but nothing is making out to my bubbler??

    I apologize if this is in the wrong place for this type of question, but I saw plate thickness and thought maybe mine is too thick!?!?!!!?!

    Jack

  9. #19
    Join Date
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    I was wondering if their is any reason not to use the thinest nuetral plates possable?

    i am interested in trying .004 ss for the nuetral plates. this is for sealed / dry cell type ectrolyzers.

    I am thinking that Very thin N plates may be easyer to get to resonate and possable produce more HHO.

  10. #20
    DieselBurps Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Roland Jacques View Post
    I was wondering if their is any reason not to use the thinest nuetral plates possable?

    i am interested in trying .004 ss for the nuetral plates. this is for sealed / dry cell type ectrolyzers.

    I am thinking that Very thin N plates may be easyer to get to resonate and possable produce more HHO.
    I was thinking the same thing. I still need to finish assembly and start testing, but I'm using 316 Stainless foil from McMaster.com to build a series of concentric circles as plates, 6" high, fitting into a 6" diameter PVC housing. If surface area is a factor in volume of production, I'll be packing about as much as is possible into my setup.

    The plates are pretty thin and definitely like to curve - it's shipping in a coiled roll that probably helps that. That's a positive thing though for my setup.

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