My little saga....

[H2OPWR]

I thought you work for a car dealership. Won't they sell you a popular model?

I drained mine tonight as it is supposed to get down around 20 degrees F. I don't want to freeze anything. I have upper and lower hoses on both side of my cell to evacuate gas and input electrolyte as quickly as possible. On one of the lower ports instead of an elbow I used a tee fitting. It is mounted with one side of the Tee slanting down and the other up. The leg that slants down comes out right under my bumper. I have a 1/2 inch stainless bolt screwed in the 1/2 inch hose with a hose clamp tightened around it. I can simply place a plastic bucket under it loosen the clamp and screw the bolt out with disposable rubber gloves on and catch the electrolyte. I made sure the bucket was clean first and then put the reclaimed electrolyte in a gallon distilled water jug. When it warms up, I will put it back in the cell. It isn't discolored in any way. It looks just like distilled water.
On draining it out, I discovered I actually have about 2 quarts of electrolyte in my system. So I now know that with my configuration a slightly heaping teaspoon of KOH flakes per quart of water will yield about 33 amps when switched on.

Dave Nowlin

I actually manage 4 dealerships. We sell all imports. Only the popular tuner cars have high amp alternators for them. Also domestic trucks that use snow plows etc have them available. I bought a Nissan Frontier. I guess that there is just not enough demand. If it is not the truck crowd that demands them it is only the people who put ultra high amp stereo's that need them. Also check out Green Machine. They make great high amp products for many high demand models. Their products will produce almost twice the amos with the same HP draw.

Larry

[Dave Nowlin]

It's kind of strange. I talked to a local guy who runs a shop rebuilding alternators and generators. He doesn't think building a 220 amp alternator in the same exact case used for a 110 amp alternator is a good idea. He says he has built them in the past and they aren't as reliable. I asked why and he explained excessive heat is your biggest problem when this is done. There simply isn't a good way to dissapate all that heat. He is checking into some folks who build high amp alternators for ambulances. They will fit in my vehicle but are physically larger than the stock unit. That would probably be a better idea as the extra load would be constant especially on a long trip pulling my fifth wheel trailer. I certainly don't want to experience an alternator failure on the road on vacation.

I looked for green machine on the web and couldn't find what you are talking about.

Dave Nowlin

[H2OPWR]

It's kind of strange. I talked to a local guy who runs a shop rebuilding alternators and generators. He doesn't think building a 220 amp alternator in the same exact case used for a 110 amp alternator is a good idea. He says he has built them in the past and they aren't as reliable. I asked why and he explained excessive heat is your biggest problem when this is done. There simply isn't a good way to dissapate all that heat. He is checking into some folks who build high amp alternators for ambulances. They will fit in my vehicle but are physically larger than the stock unit. That would probably be a better idea as the extra load would be constant especially on a long trip pulling my fifth wheel trailer. I certainly don't want to experience an alternator failure on the road on vacation.

I looked for green machine on the web and couldn't find what you are talking about.

Dave Nowlin

Ok I am bad, it is mean-green here is the link. http://www.mean-green.com/
The place I got my alternator from is Ohio Generator. They are a huge well known provider for the high end automotive stereo shop's. All I know is what they told me in a few conversations.

First is that OEM alternators are low bidder products and very ineffecient. The excess heat comes from ineffecient operation just like in a bad HHO cell design. It is wasted electricity. The alternator I bought is torn down to the bare core. It is rewound with much larger wire with closer tolerences. Also the diodes that rectify the current are much better and more effecient. There is only .063 mAmps max current leakage in the 265 amp alternator I got from him. He also said that how good the high amped alternator was depended on how good the origional design was and how much room there was for more and larger wire. Mine started at 130 amps. The extra quality and build does result in a higher cost initially. If you want to talk to them just google Ohio Generator. They list their phone number. If you do not have a way to buy through a distributor though the price will probably be north of $650.00. I can tell you for a fact that they are more effecient than stock. Since I had it installed my fuel economy has jumped 1 MPG with not one other change.

Larry

[Dave Nowlin]

Today I got the new 190 amp alternator put on my truck. I've added more KOH flakes and the amp draw is aboyt 58 amps. It may climb more during extended driving so I guess I'll get 70 amp fuse or remove some electrolyte and dilute it a bit. Still haven't measured HHO output but the return hose used to be full of liquid with some gas bubbles. Now it is gas with some liquid.

Dave Nowlin

[Dave Nowlin]

I don't really know how many of you drive diesels. That said this ulta low sulphur diesel stinks. If you hold your hand in the exhaust stream for a few minutes, it stinks. With my HHO system on the first thing I notice is it's more difficult to hold your hand close to the pipe for an extended period of time due to the moisture content of the exhaust. Afterward when you smell your hand it has very little odor. It doesn't stink. I am slowly, little by little diluting my electrolyte trying to get it down to where it draws 50 amps. Even after removing probably a cup and replacing it with distilled water I am drawing 55 amps after allowing the truck to sit and run at about 1,250 r.p.m. for about 30 minutes. It would probably draw less if moving down the road as the moving air would cool things a bit. It is running hotter after the 30 minute run. The scale on my color thermometer only goes to 120 F. When it passed that I withdrew it to keep from damaging the thermometer.

Dave Nowlin

[H2OPWR]

I don't re3ally know how many of you drive diesels. That said this no ulta low sulphur diesel stinks. If you hold your hand in the exhaust stream for a few minutes, it stinks. With my HHO system on the first thing I notice is it's more difficult to hold your hand close to the pipe for an extended period of time due to the moisture content of the exhaust. Afterward when you smell your hand it has very little odor. It doesn't stink. I am slowly, little by little diluting my electrolyte trying to get it down to where it draws 50 amps. Even after removing probably a cup and replacing it with distilled water I am drawing 55 amps after allowing the truck to sit and run at about 1,250r.p.m. for about 30 minutes. It would probably draw less if moving down the road as the moving air would cool things a bit. It is running hotter after the 30 minute run. The scale on my color thermometer only goes to 120 F. When it passed that I withdrew it to keep from damaging the thermometer.

Dave Nowlin

Any new MPG reports?

Larry

[Dave Nowlin]

Not yet. I'm sure liking the new alternator though. It doesn't even act like it knows the cell is there. Having an extra 80 amps of capacity sure helps, especially when my cell is only drawing somewhere between 50 & 60 amps. The strange thing is every time I think it has settled at a certain amp draw, in a coule of minutes it moves up a few tenths of an amp. I'm beginning to wonder how long it will take to simply settle out at a certain amp draw.

Dave Nowlin

[H2OPWR]

Not yet. I'm sure liking the new alternator though. It doesn't even act like it knows the cell is there. Having an extra 80 amps of capacity sure helps, especially when my cell is only drawing somewhere between 50 & 60 amps. The strange thing is every time I think it has settled at a certain amp draw, in a coule of minutes it moves up a few tenths of an amp. I'm beginning to wonder how long it will take to simply settle out at a certain amp draw.

Dave Nowlin

It will not. Unless you have a very large cell the fluctuating electrolite levels will continue to make what is happening continue. Just find a happy medium and go for it. The extra capacity will be a huge benefit to your cause.

Larry

[resago]

as far as the not wanting to fill your intake full of hho before it starts, get a VOS (Vacuum operated switch) and T it off the vacuum system. I am assuming you have a vacuum pump like I do in my MB 300D. My system doesn't turn on until the engine is running and the vacuum pump is working.