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Thread: Active cooling

  1. #11
    Ronjinsan Guest
    Hi Stratous

    I dont think I would be tempted to start mixing Sodium Hydroxide with other chemicals at all! Fortunately with Caustic you need very little to produce a lot of gas. I only use a tiny bit on the very tip of a teaspoon to half a litre of water. That gives me the equivalent of 2 teaspoons of baking soda. I find my water stays cleaner after the conditioning period and cooler too! Unfortunately, as you point out it doesnt like aluminium at all. The only answer to this is, dont use aluminium! It took my stupid brain a while to realise that if you use active cooling in any form, the water from your cell will come into contact with a contaminant metal, if you are not careful! ie I was using a copper pipe in mine duhhh! The other answer to this is to have a dual walled cell with coolant on the outside so that there is no contact. I am going to build a cell using a SS soup flask which is double walled. Then use the outer casing for coolant circulation! What do you think guys? Worth a try? Cheers!

  2. #12
    h-power Guest

    Which

    3blonds, which scangauge did you buy? What sort of inputs does it control?

  3. #13
    3blonds Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by h-power View Post
    3blonds, which scangauge did you buy? What sort of inputs does it control?
    I purchased Scan Guage II, do a google and go to their web site, plenty of information. I drive in Houston stop and go traffic, so far I have no overheating using my circulation and mounting everything inside the grill of my F-150. Fortunatly for me, I have plenty of room in this area and I'm removed from the heat of the engine and have good air circulation..

  4. #14
    Sparkie Guest
    I am thinking of getting a piece of stainless tube and fixing a heap of heat sinks to it. they should do the trick removing excess heat.
    Probably won't work with plastic but with stainless it should work a treat. Convection should take care of the rest even in heavy traffic...I hope

  5. #15
    Ronjinsan Guest
    Curious, would love to see a picture of that one mate!

  6. #16
    greuvin Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by 3blonds View Post
    I purchased Scan Guage II, do a google and go to their web site, plenty of information. I drive in Houston stop and go traffic, so far I have no overheating using my circulation and mounting everything inside the grill of my F-150. Fortunatly for me, I have plenty of room in this area and I'm removed from the heat of the engine and have good air circulation..
    3Blondes. Know what you mean about Houston I'm in Sugarland. Can the SGII manipulate any values or does it just act as an indicator? Are you able to adjust your fuel/air ratio?

  7. #17
    porkchop Guest
    i'm working,still early stages, on the idea of circulating the water/electrolite to a larger holding tank. Working at a Utility Dept with a waste water treatment plant, you can scrounge some good pumps that can take corrosive fluid. Thought if the resivior was large enough, it would dissapate the heat that way. You could, if your storage containerwas fairly level with your unit, run it without a pump. The heated water would move to the cold and visa versa. Like the older boilers would work. I don't know if this would be efficient enough, but it would displace water, and they used to do it that way in the older boiler days. Just a thought.

  8. #18
    snapper1d Guest
    I am looking at making a water jacket for my unit.With a water jacket and a air conditioning radiator and one of those 12V waterfall pumps.With a water jacket I would have nothing coming into contact with the electrolyte I have messed with water jackets on other applications before and have a good ideal it just might work well.

  9. #19
    SlipperyNinja Guest
    nice idea snapper! make it work!

    i would also like to add that i was kicking around the idea of having a coil of stainless tube placed at the bottom of the housing unit(for those with stainless electrodes). this coil would have an in and out to run through the walls of the unit and then to the cooling device of your choice...coolant could also be your choice....provided all materials are of the same stainless grade, this should combat the dissimilar metals problem....should also be able to avoid ambient gas production on coil if placed outside the flow of electricity (not sure on that one)...more holes means more potential for leaks, but that's just a quality of build issue(please note i have yet to build more than a bubbling tub of water)...and high-five if you're one of the lucky ones that has absurd access to all sorts of great crap!

  10. #20
    snapper1d Guest
    SlipperyNinja your coils brings to mind that we had some tanks with heating and cooling coils inside them.A all stainless tank with stainless coils in it so you could have a cooling solution running thru them.The coils entering and exiting thru the sides and then to a small transfer pump and then to a radiator in front of your grill.I bet that would do wonders.

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