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Thread: cpu resets= car learning?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    7

    cpu resets= car learning?

    I don't know how to start off with my question. I've read somewhere that with the newer models of cars, effie, map/maf sensor won't help. And that the only solution is to install the HHO system and let it run on your car and resetting your cpu every few miles for certain amount of months then your car will adapt to it?.

    If anyone can confirm that this works or a link to where i can get more info. It would be great.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Anchorage Ak
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    Quote Originally Posted by dslim View Post
    I don't know how to start off with my question. I've read somewhere that with the newer models of cars, effie, map/maf sensor won't help. And that the only solution is to install the HHO system and let it run on your car and resetting your cpu every few miles for certain amount of months then your car will adapt to it?.

    If anyone can confirm that this works or a link to where i can get more info. It would be great.
    Actually I beleive that there are gains to be made with an EFIE, MAP/MAF etc. In fact with todays cars making gains without some electronic help will almost be impossible. I beleive the problem that most face is impatience. I do think the ECU needs a complete reset at the start. Then take it very slow. Take your time and make only very small adjustments. Resist the urge to make big changes to see increases. There is something called Long Term Fuel trim and Short Term Fuel Trim. This allows the ECU to adapt to it's conditions. If you are a lead foot then the ECU learns to give you more fuel, If you live in a high altitude then the ECU learns that you need less, etc. The ECU will make small short term changes to the fuel trim based on the immediate situation. All the time comparing them to the long term fuel trim. If there is too much a difference between the two then the ECU thinks there is a problem and goes into open loop running your car at a safe rich setting. What needs to be done are slow steady changes. The long term fuel trim will slowly change based on the amount of fuel your car uses. In other words take it slow and let your car learn. Once you start moving the LTFT to a leaner setting then resetting the ECU will make you start all over again. If you mess up and get a check engine light spend the money to have it cleared without unhooking the battery cable. Doing that could clear at least some of the LTFT and make you start over. Just an educated opinion. Good Luck. It can be a frustrating process.

    Larry

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    4

    Scan guage

    http://www.scangauge.com/

    I have found that you will need a gauge like the one I have posted the link to. Once you start messing with HHO production,EFIEs, and trying to trick your MAF sensor, you WILL bring on check engine codes. The scan gauge allows you to reset this problem on your own, even while driving. I have mine tie wrapped to my shift lever and it is plugged in and working all of the time.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by dslim View Post
    I don't know how to start off with my question. I've read somewhere that with the newer models of cars, effie, map/maf sensor won't help. And that the only solution is to install the HHO system and let it run on your car and resetting your cpu every few miles for certain amount of months then your car will adapt to it?.

    If anyone can confirm that this works or a link to where i can get more info. It would be great.
    I tried that, resetting the engine control module, on my 07 Honda Accord, and 05 Honda Civic. Both have hho dry cell systems. Resetting for me, did NOT work. What DID WORK though, was to put a wideband afr efie on the front afr sensor, and a narrowband O2 efie on the secondary O2 sensor of each car.
    Mileage in my Civic went from 32 to 44, up 38% and holding. Checked it yesterday.
    Strongly recommend that you get the efies from fuelsaver-mpg.com, they have the only wideband afr efie guaranteed to work, and it does indeed work well. Great support, great products - and I don't get paid for saying that, I just had good experience with them.
    John Sargent

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Southern Alberta Canada
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    483
    Quote Originally Posted by 55blue View Post
    http://www.scangauge.com/

    I have found that you will need a gauge like the one I have posted the link to. Once you start messing with HHO production,EFIEs, and trying to trick your MAF sensor, you WILL bring on check engine codes. The scan gauge allows you to reset this problem on your own, even while driving. I have mine tie wrapped to my shift lever and it is plugged in and working all of the time.

    that might be why i bought a OBD2 to USB, so i could monitor live data while driving - oh hooks up to a laptop.
    Come to the Darkside - We have Cookies
    And lots of KOH (16 LBS)

    Not currently running HHO.
    I dont run HHO during winter.

  6. #6
    bigjim56 Guest
    What DID WORK though, was to put a wideband afr efie on the front afr sensor, and a narrowband O2 efie on the secondary O2 sensor of each car.
    Mileage in my Civic went from 32 to 44, up 38% and holding.

    John,

    My situation is similar to yours, my car is a 2001 Acura Integra (almost identical engine as your 2005 Civic) that is using 6 water4gas units w/a map sensor to trim fuel usage. Currently getting a dry cell unit ready for install. Government websites say I should be getting 25-28 mpg, but I'm currently getting 30-31 average, I drive very thriftfully.

    What units are you using, water4gas or dry cell? What is this units cost and how hard is the install? I would be very interested to see if the gains you see are here for the long run. I hope they are.

    My map sensor works great, but with little to no gains in mpg's I'm beginning to think that there is something here I am not seeing. Once the dry cell is installed (testing begins tonight) and if there's still no mpg increase, then for sure something is wrong. Something I'm not seeing.

    bigjim56

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Anchorage Ak
    Posts
    954
    Quote Originally Posted by bigjim56 View Post
    What DID WORK though, was to put a wideband afr efie on the front afr sensor, and a narrowband O2 efie on the secondary O2 sensor of each car.
    Mileage in my Civic went from 32 to 44, up 38% and holding.

    John,

    My situation is similar to yours, my car is a 2001 Acura Integra (almost identical engine as your 2005 Civic) that is using 6 water4gas units w/a map sensor to trim fuel usage. Currently getting a dry cell unit ready for install. Government websites say I should be getting 25-28 mpg, but I'm currently getting 30-31 average, I drive very thriftfully.

    What units are you using, water4gas or dry cell? What is this units cost and how hard is the install? I would be very interested to see if the gains you see are here for the long run. I hope they are.

    My map sensor works great, but with little to no gains in mpg's I'm beginning to think that there is something here I am not seeing. Once the dry cell is installed (testing begins tonight) and if there's still no mpg increase, then for sure something is wrong. Something I'm not seeing.

    bigjim56

    Bigjim, I beleive that you need to target the O2's for enhancement. The map enhancer will help but not without an EFIE. I do now beleive that you need to use an EFIE of both pre and post cat O2's.

    Larry

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    27

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by bigjim56 View Post
    What DID WORK though, was to put a wideband afr efie on the front afr sensor, and a narrowband O2 efie on the secondary O2 sensor of each car.
    Mileage in my Civic went from 32 to 44, up 38% and holding.

    John,

    My situation is similar to yours, my car is a 2001 Acura Integra (almost identical engine as your 2005 Civic) that is using 6 water4gas units w/a map sensor to trim fuel usage. Currently getting a dry cell unit ready for install. Government websites say I should be getting 25-28 mpg, but I'm currently getting 30-31 average, I drive very thriftfully.

    What units are you using, water4gas or dry cell? What is this units cost and how hard is the install? I would be very interested to see if the gains you see are here for the long run. I hope they are.

    My map sensor works great, but with little to no gains in mpg's I'm beginning to think that there is something here I am not seeing. Once the dry cell is installed (testing begins tonight) and if there's still no mpg increase, then for sure something is wrong. Something I'm not seeing.

    bigjim56
    Hi Jim,
    I'm using a dry cell (7 plate), pwm, and 2 efies (wideband afr sensor in front on exhaust manifold, and regular O2 sensor after that one), appropriate efie on each sensor (they are different sensors, and require different efies). Got my dry cell from hydrogas labs on ebay, been very happy with them. Got the efies from fuelsaver-mpg.com, and been extremely happy with their service and support. Great guys, great products, strongly recommend as they replaced one of mine that quit working free and quickly.

    Hope this helps. Strongly recommend that you get away from wetcell glass jars as quickly as possible for: better production, lower temperatures, safety.

    John

  9. #9
    bigjim56 Guest
    H2OPWR/John,

    I went to their website and put in the info. for my car, they mailed me back today...

    James,
    You have 1 narrow band sensor upstream of your catalytic converter so one of our single narrow band EFIE’s is what you would need.
    You can get one in our online store at http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/store/

    I already have the map sensor...does'nt that do what this efie would do?
    This has me confused, I know I need to control the fuel sensor from dumping xs fuel and that is what the map sensor is doing, cutting back on the xs fuel delivery. I guess what I'm asking is "How is this efie any different from my map sensor?" Does'nt the map sensor take the electrical current and alter the attenuating flow to the oxygen sensor?

    Thanks for the response guys.

    I am getting away from the water4gas design, testing on my dry cell should begin tonight. Thanks Larry for the plate design and building/advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

    bigjim56

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Southern Alberta Canada
    Posts
    483
    Quote Originally Posted by bigjim56 View Post
    H2OPWR/John,

    I went to their website and put in the info. for my car, they mailed me back today...

    James,
    You have 1 narrow band sensor upstream of your catalytic converter so one of our single narrow band EFIE’s is what you would need.
    You can get one in our online store at http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/store/

    I already have the map sensor...does'nt that do what this efie would do?
    This has me confused, I know I need to control the fuel sensor from dumping xs fuel and that is what the map sensor is doing, cutting back on the xs fuel delivery. I guess what I'm asking is "How is this efie any different from my map sensor?" Does'nt the map sensor take the electrical current and alter the attenuating flow to the oxygen sensor?

    Thanks for the response guys.

    I am getting away from the water4gas design, testing on my dry cell should begin tonight. Thanks Larry for the plate design and building/advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

    bigjim56
    each sensor sends info to the computer independantly.

    if u adjust the map sensor, the computer will still see the info from the O2 sensor, and decides what to do, now if u adjust both sensors, then the computer will adjust that info.

    the computer adjust fuel through many sensors, and if one is adjusted way off it will through a light, and might go into open loop, which will use more fuel so the engine doesnt get damaged.

    and the pre OBD2 1996 cars are more adjustable - doesnt through a light as easy.

    the OBD2 computers are smarter, but dumber as if one sensor goes bad, than the car doesnt run right, if one sensor goes bad on a pre OBD2 the car will still run ok and drivable.
    Come to the Darkside - We have Cookies
    And lots of KOH (16 LBS)

    Not currently running HHO.
    I dont run HHO during winter.

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