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Thread: no additive needed?

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  1. #1
    daveczrn Guest

    no additive needed?

    i am seeing a few diffrent designs that dont require any type of additive(lye, baking soda, ect.) What do you think these other designs are doing?

    is it a closer plate design? special plate material?

    I was thinking if i could pull off the plate design that is really close i won't need the any additive to allow the water to conduct electricity, as well i think that it will be more efficent because there are no additives.

    I understand the bubbles will want to stick to both plates but i believe if i use a type of water circulation where i can push the water between teh plates physically push the bubbles out of the plates.

    anyone have any sugestions or recomendations?

  2. #2
    dennis13030 Guest
    I like the idea of no additives. I also like the idea to use almost any type of water except pure(distilled).

    A normal config. is

    +NNN-NNN+

    you may have to go with

    +N-N+

    instead. I don't know.

  3. #3
    daveczrn Guest
    I;m not sure about not using distilled water. sounds like there will be buildup of impurities on the plates. Maybe ill put something together this weekend and see what i can come up with.

    I have been a machinist for 15 years. being able to put the plates a few thougsands of an inch apart should not be a problem.

    where can i find a cheap fuel pump that i can use to push the water?

  4. #4
    dennis13030 Guest
    How about an aquarium pump?

  5. #5
    daveczrn Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by dennis13030 View Post
    How about an aquarium pump?
    because to my knowledge all aquarium pumps are AC voltage. without running a inverter or just using it as a bench test model it won't work in an automotive situation.

    I do have another question though. i've read a few times that we only need about 1.5v (2vdc to be safe) to creat HHO. Running our systems at 12v is mostlikely creating more heat correct? running the system down at the 2v would be better?

  6. #6
    thebargew Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by ruel View Post
    I do have another question though. i've read a few times that we only need about 1.5v (2vdc to be safe) to creat HHO. Running our systems at 12v is mostlikely creating more heat correct? running the system down at the 2v would be better?
    This concept is still new to me but the way it works is spreading the 12v through a series off N plates so that it equals to 2v each. scan through the other threads it will make total sense.
    The balance of hho output and amp draw is the whole trick.

    No additives would be awesome. the question is how much hho volume do you need for your application? If you are trying to get a huge volume in a short time, it would be hard. If you want to make enough to keep your vehicle running with less gas for a long duration without overheating, it is more likely.
    Once you get to a certain level of HHO output your vehicle gas fuel system will only drop so much.
    I have been planning out a design to actually incorporate the hho as a functioning interactive system rather than a static output.

  7. #7
    dennis13030 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by daveczrn View Post
    because to my knowledge all aquarium pumps are AC voltage. without running a inverter or just using it as a bench test model it won't work in an automotive situation.

    I do have another question though. i've read a few times that we only need about 1.5v (2vdc to be safe) to creat HHO. Running our systems at 12v is mostlikely creating more heat correct? running the system down at the 2v would be better?
    Yea, you are right about the aquarium pump(my bad).

    Just add a few neutral plates between the anode and cathode to create more cells. Like this

    +NNN-


    Another common config is this

    +NNN-NNN+

    The neutral plates do help. The count varies a little depending on the designer's desire.

  8. #8
    ruel Guest

    no additive

    Quote Originally Posted by daveczrn View Post
    i am seeing a few diffrent designs that dont require any type of additive(lye, baking soda, ect.) What do you think these other designs are doing?

    is it a closer plate design? special plate material?

    I was thinking if i could pull off the plate design that is really close i won't need the any additive to allow the water to conduct electricity, as well i think that it will be more efficent because there are no additives.

    I understand the bubbles will want to stick to both plates but i believe if i use a type of water circulation where i can push the water between teh plates physically push the bubbles out of the plates.

    anyone have any sugestions or recomendations?

    I am a new member in this forum but I have read many ideas from other hobs and hav tried it ,there is one is saying that it will work with no additives but when i tried iit i got only minmal production. the gap between plates he mentioned was 1mm, but i was able to do is up to 2mm only. may be it will work if i can work with the required gap.

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