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Thread: Bubbler foaming with picture

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    19

    Bubbler foaming with picture

    Hi all,
    Love the group, but have bubbler foaming also.
    A 20% soultion running at 112 degrees. 13.3 volts and looks like 18 amps.
    This is in a dry cell.
    Any help?
    Thanks
    R

  2. #2
    truckman1966 Guest
    20% solution of what?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Anchorage Ak
    Posts
    954
    Quote Originally Posted by sweet7549 View Post
    Hi all,
    Love the group, but have bubbler foaming also.
    A 20% soultion running at 112 degrees. 13.3 volts and looks like 18 amps.
    This is in a dry cell.
    Any help?
    Thanks
    R
    Wow, This has come up alot lately. I simply do not understand why. Over amping the cell is usually a major culprit causing foam and is the only time I have ever seen foam in a cell. What I really do not get is the foam in the bubbler unless it is coming out the exhaust port of your resevoir. Make sure that you are at or under 1 amp per 4 sq inches of active plate surface.

    That almost looks like soap bubbles in your picture. Did you clean it with any type of soap that will foam?

    Larry
    2008 Nissan Frontier 4X4 Nismo. 12 MPG baseline with my normal commute and heavy stop and go daily driving. Generator installed and working on 3/29/2009

    Up to 14.5 MPG with no enhancers. Still testing the effects of lots of HHO and no electronic enhancers.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    111
    I have foam in my reservior but it doesn't get through the scrubber to the bubbler.

    Dave Nowlin

  5. #5
    bigjim56 Guest
    I am/had been experiencing foaming also. (See other foaming thread here, bigjim56 authored)

    Whats eliminated it is using a porous sock (the green scrub pad from any dollar store) fitted over the reservoir inlet tube using 2 plastic wire ties. Its all but eliminated the foaming. I now have a concern of the pad deteriorating in the caustic environment of the reservoir, so I'm watching the reservoir bottom closely. A SS brillo pad would work well also, and w/o the concern of deterioration. I just read the bubbler stone thread and that looks to be a worthwhile investment too. I just hope that one of these avenues can withstand the highly caustic treatment that's being thrown at it.

    Larry,

    I've been thinking about the over amping aspect that you just mentioned, remember, I used shower pan liner for my gasket material on both cells, and for my car cell, I dropped the last stack of the -NNNNN+NNNNN-NNNNN+ initial plate configuration due to concern about it being too big for my cars needs (1.8L) . If the running cell level does not come back to the top with the things I'm trying, I may resort to pulling the cell and adding the last stack.
    Whats your thoughts?

    Thanks,

    bigjim56

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Anchorage Ak
    Posts
    954
    Quote Originally Posted by bigjim56 View Post
    I am/had been experiencing foaming also. (See other foaming thread here, bigjim56 authored)

    Whats eliminated it is using a porous sock (the green scrub pad from any dollar store) fitted over the reservoir inlet tube using 2 plastic wire ties. Its all but eliminated the foaming. I now have a concern of the pad deteriorating in the caustic environment of the reservoir, so I'm watching the reservoir bottom closely. A SS brillo pad would work well also, and w/o the concern of deterioration. I just read the bubbler stone thread and that looks to be a worthwhile investment too. I just hope that one of these avenues can withstand the highly caustic treatment that's being thrown at it.

    Larry,

    I've been thinking about the over amping aspect that you just mentioned, remember, I used shower pan liner for my gasket material on both cells, and for my car cell, I dropped the last stack of the -NNNNN+NNNNN-NNNNN+ initial plate configuration due to concern about it being too big for my cars needs (1.8L) . If the running cell level does not come back to the top with the things I'm trying, I may resort to pulling the cell and adding the last stack.
    Whats your thoughts?

    Thanks,

    bigjim56
    With this technology plate surface is your friend! More plate surface equals less heat and lower watts per square inch. With more plates and more gaps with the same amp draw you will also benefit greatly from there being fewer bubbles in each plate gap. That will improve the ion flow and improve effeciency. I would defenitely add those extra plates.

    For what it is worth I would also move to 1/16" neoprene or nitrile for your gaskets. You will have fewer leaking problems in the future. Painless has had much trouble trying to keep the shower pan liner from leaking.

    Nitrile is better than neoprene but works well and costs about half. You should be able to get enough neoprene to make all the gaskets you would need for under $20.00. I also think you would have less trouble keeping the cell full with slightly wider gaps. The bubbles will have more room to escape and take less electrolite with it.

    Just my opinion.

    Larry
    2008 Nissan Frontier 4X4 Nismo. 12 MPG baseline with my normal commute and heavy stop and go daily driving. Generator installed and working on 3/29/2009

    Up to 14.5 MPG with no enhancers. Still testing the effects of lots of HHO and no electronic enhancers.

  7. #7
    bigjim56 Guest
    Thanks for responding so quickly Larry. What you say makes a lot of sense. I will pull the cell and install the additional stack as quick as the timing allows.

    I have not had a leakage problem w/the shower pan gasket material. When I first completed the first cell, I filled with DI and observed over an 8 hr. shift...I saw a couple of drops, retorqued the bolts and no leak since.

    I did retorque the bolts after the last time I pulled it to shave some side/corner wall to allow for better engine compartment adaptation. (To fit in lower 1-2") You reminded me to retorque after a week or 2 of use, which I did.

    The wider gap will help to eliminate electrolite carryover and also encourage a full cell moreso...I do agree.

    Thanks,

    bigjim56

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Paso Robles, CA
    Posts
    202
    Try using foam disperser from a pool store. It is used in hot tubs to control foam. Pour a tiny amount in your reservoir and you will kill all the foam. Here is a link to a video I did on this subject:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0gTi...e=channel_page

    Good Luck!

  9. #9
    Davehho1 Guest

    Drain

    Drain and clean your cell, the only time (s) that I have had any foaming issues is either some of the Tap water in my last bubbler got sucked into the tank or I had a little soap residue left from cleaning the plates.

    Also: Ive switched to neopreme gaskets ( 1/16th gap) and after one run up to 120 degrees F, I had to tighten down the bolts and haven't had to touch em since..

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pensacola, Florida
    Posts
    130

    Foaming issues with dry cells

    I've had this problem for some time now and the situation is getting scare y due to the koh getting into the engine. I looked at this video twice now
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0gTi...e=channel_page
    and I,m asking if anyone has used this product? And also, in the long term, is it diluting the electrolyte? Also I changed out my system say 6 mos ago from smack cells to a 36 plate dry cell.
    2003 chevy blazer 18-21 city, 25-27 hwy. 36 plate dry cell generator. O2 extender

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