Isn't there something you can get at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc. that would work as a suitable check valve? Are there DIY plans for something like this? I like to build everything myself, that is part of the fun!
Member
Isn't there something you can get at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc. that would work as a suitable check valve? Are there DIY plans for something like this? I like to build everything myself, that is part of the fun!
cmac, unfortunately searching local hardware stores and plumbing supplies is very time consuming and gas wasteful. There are a lot of those around me, to save time I like to know someplace has what I'm looking for before I go there. Buying off the internet is very convenient, just sux waiting for it to arrive. I have quite a few of the water4gas check valves, but they're not for this application. These check valves are needed to work correctly in a very harsh environment, so not just any check valve will do.
mileageseeker...excellent link, thanks. If the current ones ordered do not perform, I will look harder at your contact. $5 is not bad as long as they work well and are reliable. Do you use them in your system currently?
Roland, I like the lower lift pressure because it means the HHO system works less restricted. They're 1/4" inlet/outlet sized ends, I wanted 5/16"...I've been trying to keep everything from dry cell to air intake at 5/16" to ensure an unrestricted flow throughout. This will be the only area where its down sized at all. Probably negligible, but I will see.
One last thing about this HHO setup. I was a Boiler Tech. in the Navy 75-79.
What the HHO system is, is basically a "Steam Cycle Loop". It generates HHO that expands and gets cooled again (somewhat) like condensation in a steam cycle. To prevent misdirectional flow (backwards) a check valve is used to ensure the one way flow in the right direction. I'm just hoping the 0.5 psi lift pressure is sufficient to cause the flow to go in the right direction. I wonder also if another check valve should'nt also be used at the influent to the cell to ensure the one way flow of the supply electrolite? I have'nt heard of anyone using 2 check valves yet. The cell is like a Boiler in this respect, it starts producing and gets hungry for more electrolite (feedwater) and expels the old and replenishes w/new. Without check valves, the flow could easily be reversed, or cavitation could occur. Just my $0.02.
Thanks everyone for the inputs, they're very helpful.
bigjim56
Senior Member
Make your own using a small plastic ball inside 1/2 PVC using a flat rubber washer and hose barbs. Once the system is shut down the ball will seat its self against the rubber washer. The check valve would need to be installed in the vetical position in order for the ball to fall back into the rubber washer and seal... Very simple to make... This put a stop to the siphoning of electrolyte fluid from my bubbler back into my reservoir and overflowing the reservoir through the small hole in the cap…
Senior Member
This $2.99 valve is what I have used for months.
If it ever gets clogged with a particle, just flush it.
It withstands STRONG KOH!
http://tinyurl.com/pbj33r
BoyntonStu
Member
These are from www.usplastics.com
$0.72 for 1/4" barb, $1.54 for 3/8" +s&h
This is the one I pictured in a previous post.
$6.16-$7.35 + s&h
Senior Member
But these are very restrictive. I have a number of them and they all cut down on the flow and cause back presurre within the system... I do not like them!!! I am using a 3/8" Polypropylene Hollow Ball that weighs .2 grams and takes very little pressure to lift the ball from the rubber washer. The ball can withstand continuous working temperature of 220º F and has a diameter tolerance of .005. Because of how the check valve is designed its not restrictive at all... I made check valve so that due to the weight of the ball the ball can not rise high enough to come in contact with the discharge side of the hose barb and block the flow.Originally Posted by BoyntonStu
Senior Member
Interesting comment.
I use only a single one at the input and there is no back pressure issue.
I have been thinking about building a fluid stop gap between the bubbler and the reservoir.
Basically, a reverse bubbler. Input at the top and output with a dip tube.
As long as the gap volume is less than the headspace volume in the reservoir, no bubbler fluid could be sucked back into the reservoir.
OTOH I have found that a cool running Amoeba Cell will not create enough vacuum to suck back from the bubbler.
BoyntonStu
Super Moderator
Unless I misunderstand your idea, won't this simply result in gas pressure pushing down on the water and forcing it through the dip tube to your engine?
Member
Is .5 psi cracking pressure really all that restrictive? I have seen some on ebay that have a cracking pressure of 4 psi. Maybe that is what you have tried?
Senior Member
The air gap is placed between the reservoir and the bubbler.
When the reservoir cools, the vacuum will draw fluid from the bubbler into the air gap (reverse bubbler).
When you re-start the cell, the HHO will force the fluid back into the bubbler where it belongs.
BoyntonStu
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