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Thread: HHO improves fuel emissions, Proof

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
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    799
    Quote Originally Posted by Havens78 View Post
    In my single stack 771 i can see 5 plates only through the electrolyte holes (haven't taken it apart yet)
    configuration looks like +nnn- 772 should be +nnn-nnn+ and 773 +nnn-nnn+nnn- (i'm hoping i'm wrong here and there are at least 4 neutrals)
    If you can see the individual plates by looking through the E/lyte hole, that means the plates don't even have staggered holes for E/lyte and gas. Huge current loss = heat= low actual production. 3 bi-polar plates per stack isn't making much hho, it's mostly steam caused by hitting each individual cell with an insane 3.45 volts. This is why we all use a minimum of 5 bi-polars, I've never used less than 6 myself (1.97volts per cell).
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  2. #32
    Can you guys please suggest me what to do now to get performance out of my HHO system? Given that I have 772 installed in trunk, using PWM (can take it out), running on 4AWG, wires (both +ve and -ve) and using larger hose 3/4 all the way after 4" from bubbler to air intake (with elbow - 3/4" inside the air intake to face towards throttle body after MAF).

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
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    799
    If you really need help, you must post pictures of everything (reactor, reservoir, bubbler/scrubber, etc). Also, any info that pertains to the setup ( plate size, active area, configuration, electrolyte percentage, vehicle, engine, EFIE, MAF/MAP enhancement, and so on). The more information you make available, the more we can help.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  4. #34

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by lhazleton View Post
    If you really need help, you must post pictures of everything (reactor, reservoir, bubbler/scrubber, etc). Also, any info that pertains to the setup ( plate size, active area, configuration, electrolyte percentage, vehicle, engine, EFIE, MAF/MAP enhancement, and so on). The more information you make available, the more we can help.
    Hi,

    I took out all my HHO, every joints and pipes. I put goop in all joints and put them back. I found out that the original gauge was showing about 5Amps lower (when it was showing 30, actually it was 35). I've replaced that with panel gauge (30 Amps). I flushed whole system, filled in distilled water and poured about 10 leveled tea spoon of NaOH. Now I am seeing that the amps are between 25 to 30, floating. Sometimes its showing 22 and sometimes over 30.

    I checked LPM (eudiometer) and its about 1.5 LPM at engine side (16ft away from bubbler). I checked the same at bubbler side (6" distance) and its the same LPM.

    I also checked gas for steam and its all dry and it is HHO. I connected 500ml empty dry mineral bottle with hose and while keeping it upside down, I put flint at its mouth and it blasted (I was well prepared for the blast , I took all safety measure before doing this ).

    Now I think my mileage chip might be causing the problem. so I will take it out tomorrow and see what happens.

    Can you please guide me what should be the symptoms after turning on HHO (engine behavior)? Also what should happen if mileage chip is connected (symptoms please)?

    I am still seeing lights dimming when I turn on HHO (about 10% dimming), is this normal?

    I am attaching all pictures for your reference. Please let me know about your thoughts.

    I am using 4AWG wires for both +ve and -ve.

    I've poured 10 leveled tea spoons of electrolyte in 2.5 liters of distilled water

    I am using PWM, however at 100% duty cycle (still loss of about 2 Amps)

    The amps are floating, sometimes showing less than 20 amps, sometimes over 30 (randomly, doesn't matter how long I am running the system).

    I am up converting hose size from 3/8" to 3/4" after 6" from bubbler. The 3/4" hose is running through the foot board in cabin and engine bay through passenger door opening for OEM wiring (I've taken out the sealing rubber to have space of passing hose through it). There is no blockage of air, as LPM on bubbler and enigne sides are same, so no loss of HHO through 16ft hose.

    I am using 3/4" elbow inside the air intake of engine to make sure it creates vacuum to suck HHO (its about 8" distant from throttle body, I've put it after MAF sensor in airflow), this is taking about 50% of the space inside the air intake, could this cause and issue?

    Please let me know.

    Thanks!

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    164
    I really think that your problem is with the mileage chip. when you reset it make sure the engine and hho have been running for about 15-20 minutes and are warm. Manufacturer says it can take up to 120 miles after this reset for the chip to completely reset itself. There are a few threads on this if you search for 'volo', some people are having luck with them and some are having no luck at all.

    THe unit is making plenty of gas for your engine size, when my chip hasn't worked i've lost 2-3 mpg on the hwy. And i get a better gain on hwy miles than i do in town, don't get discouraged you'll figure this out.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Havens78 View Post
    I really think that your problem is with the mileage chip. when you reset it make sure the engine and hho have been running for about 15-20 minutes and are warm. Manufacturer says it can take up to 120 miles after this reset for the chip to completely reset itself. There are a few threads on this if you search for 'volo', some people are having luck with them and some are having no luck at all.

    THe unit is making plenty of gas for your engine size, when my chip hasn't worked i've lost 2-3 mpg on the hwy. And i get a better gain on hwy miles than i do in town, don't get discouraged you'll figure this out.
    Thanks for your suggestion. I've disconnected mileage chip last night, so now I am testing the engine behavior. I am feeling a bit of engine power with HHO on. My system is taking about 20Amps producing over 1.5LPM (on engine side).

    Now I am thinking about keeping HHO hose very close to throttle body instead of keeping about 8" distant in air intake. Do you think it will help?

    Also, should I still increase Amps in my HHO to 30ish?

    Thanks again

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    164
    If you are getting 1.5 lpm at 20 amps i'd stick with that, the minimum you need for your 1.8 liter engine is .9 lpm.

    if your mileage chip doesn't work after a month or so of fussing with it, contact support and get a EFIE for your O2 sensors. Don't give up on it, i spent 2 months trying to dial mine in so i understand the frustration. We'd get 40% on the hwy and then -5% in town one week and then 10% increase in town the next week, it takes a while to get it just right. Even now our percentages jump around, but its more because of traffic in town than anything now.

    I would suggest moving the injection point closer than 8" away, i have mine set about 3" from the throttle body. I would try messing with the electronics first though before you drill another hole in your intake.

  8. #38

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Havens78 View Post
    If you are getting 1.5 lpm at 20 amps i'd stick with that, the minimum you need for your 1.8 liter engine is .9 lpm.

    if your mileage chip doesn't work after a month or so of fussing with it, contact support and get a EFIE for your O2 sensors. Don't give up on it, i spent 2 months trying to dial mine in so i understand the frustration. We'd get 40% on the hwy and then -5% in town one week and then 10% increase in town the next week, it takes a while to get it just right. Even now our percentages jump around, but its more because of traffic in town than anything now.

    I would suggest moving the injection point closer than 8" away, i have mine set about 3" from the throttle body. I would try messing with the electronics first though before you drill another hole in your intake.
    Thanks for your thoughts. So I believe the formula for LPM would be divide engine liters by 2?

    For Mileage chip, I will drive my car without the chip for now, will observe engine behavior. Once I see difference in performance with HHO vs without HHO, I will get back to the chip.

    For keep the HHO injection point closer to throttle body, I will run a tube inside the air intake duct and so it will release HHO about 3" closer to throttle.

    This is for sure that even a very small leak in hose running from reactor to reservoir and bubbler causes loss of gas! Since I replaced manufacturer's sealing paste with goop Ia m seeing 1.5LPM from 20Amps. you must put goop in joints even where you are using clamps to seal hose with elbow or joints.

    This is for sure that this HHO business is not easy and not any one can just do it, one has to be really technical and patient... as its not easy for justify the investment of $800 - $1000 on this system.

    Per your experience, should I be looking for any symptom (other than acceleration) from engine noise or exhaust to see reaction of car for HHO?

    Thanks again

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    164
    In my experience other than slightly more acceleration and throttle response the only other noticeable change is the smell of the exhaust. I can get my wife to talk to me in the garage (with the doors open of course) while i'm running tests if i have my unit on in her car, if its off all I usually hear is "oh, it stinks in here again why is the hydrogen off?".

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
    Posts
    799
    If you're putting 1.5 LPM into a 1.8 liter engine, you're defeating yourself.
    Dial the pwm down so that you're getting 1 LPM only. Anything over that is overkill and will decrease the HHO benefits. As far as the chip goes, they rarely work. You'd be better off with an EFIE & MAP controller.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

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