The color change is interesting worth looking into a little. It does make me wonder if the pressure was the same at cold and hot temps. Pressure plays a roll in flame shape and color. So to be objective we would have to make sure the pressure is the same at both temps.
The main thing you need to produce a torch flame is pressure, not LPM. I agree for a practical sized torch, 2 LPM is needed. That is due to the orifice size with the LPM to create the ideal pressure range. If you use a small hypodermic needle you make a torch with 0.2 LPM.
When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."
youre making 1 liter in 25 seconds at 10 amps? At what voltage? If youre talking 13.8VDC, which it sounds like your are being its in a car, thats 17.4 MMW. it sounds like you have yourself a steam machine. Thats why your flame is different colors. Its mostly water vapor.
Do tell. explain your system. somethign doesnt add up
The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
www.hhounderground.com
That does sound like a too good to be true number. I think poor amp meters, and even volt meter, are responsible for most errors from a lot of folks testing. Water does vaporize at any temp, even ice vaporizes. But if your cell is a standard type build its probably not much vapor at 69 degrees.
Is your cell unique in any way?
When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."
Nhhobie here...Back to the topic of thread for a second, "injection point", has anyone injected hho into pcv and throttle body, with any results?
03 Ford Focus 2.0 MTX mpg 32-37 summer. 30-32 winter w/o hho
Jesus saves.
10 amps would be ideal for that reactor being 20 sq. in. of surface area. 2"x10" would be close to whats wet. and I like the tall thin designs, Im building a 7 or 8 cell 3"x32" surface area reactor. I think there might be something to that tall thin design. we will see. but I would like to see what you get from the clamp meter and also a vid showing volts, amps, and output. If you are getting 1 liter in 25 seconds off 10 amps I would really like to see that.
The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
www.hhounderground.com
As to the question of where to inject the HHO, for an HHO boost application, it would appear that in a closed system, the more opportunity the various gases(HHO,air) have to mix, the more even the eventual distribution of any component of that mixture will be down the line at any point you want to pick.
That would seem to indicate that the further away from the engine you can inject the HHO, the better it will be mixed in with the air, and the more even will be it's delivery across all cylinders.
But then we encounter the MAF sensor. In most engines, these are placed in the air intake after the cleaner and before the throttle body. HHO can apparently do real damage to these rather expensive items. So, that puts us back towards the engine/throttle body for positioning our injection point, and the question of whether or not even mixing and distribution will occur.
Does anyone have any experience with multiple injection points around the intake and whether that makes any difference? If not, I'll do some testing.
yea on subject, in short. between the MAF and throttle body. The air flow is turbulent enough to mix it well before it gets to the combustion chamber even ported right at the throttle body.
In between my MAF and throttle body i have created a venturi and had mine ported into there so it has some negative pressure as RPMs rise thus sucking more HHO from the air pocket in the bubbler & 7' of 5/8" hose, My system would bubble more rapid when I would excel, then when RPMs go down the system catches back up to the pressure at low RPMs. It would stop bubbling for a couple seconds.
The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
www.hhounderground.com